Steering vibration when braking - again?

Legatron

Member
Hi, there are various threads on here, some dating back to 2010 regarding a vibration that feels like warped discs but with no definitive answer.

Ive recently replaced with new discs and pads, cleaned the caliper and slide pins etc.. But to no avail.

When jacked up, I do seem to have movement from 3 to 9 o'clock which I guess would hint at a bush failed in the steering arm or control arm? But I've had this movement before, namely e39 bmw and Ford Focus but with no steering vibration when braking.

Is there a definitive explanation on what appears to be a common problem on A2's?

Thanks
 

Fredaudi

A2OC Donor
All I can contribute with, is that I had the same vibration, and that I replaced disc, pads and pins.Later I found out that the discs and pads had no skew/warp, but with 4 new pins, lubricated, and with right torque settings, it solved the problem almost.
Still there is a light vibration, and I will be following this thread with interest.
 

Exe_Chris

Member
Control arm bushings / ball joint would be my suggestion, with recent experience of the same issue. I had them all done, with new arms, and the vibration is gone.
 
D

Deleted member 16918

Guest
I had a problem with vibration under braking. I was a bit worried but after I removed the front wheels brushed them down and securely tightened them, the problem went. It costs nothing to verify this.
 

Weetank2

Member
Free play in the roadwheel as described 3/9 o'clock when jacked up suggests worn trackrod end or inner joints

Would expect Mot tester to spot if excessive

Can be helpful to have someone move the wheel while you observe or feel for play
 

Prosit 3L

New Member
Brake caliper wear at contact point with upright is a (little) known problem.
New caliper or special welding and sanding.
 

Legatron

Member
Update.. Seems to have been cured by replacing a failed lower ball joint (new lower arm). Not the cheapest fix.. but a fix is a fix.
 

Legatron

Member
Well, the old one was fitted by previous owner and failed after 3500 miles! No idea of the brand. The new one is, unfortunately a Starline lower arm fitted by the mot garage. I had to save some money this month otherwise I probs would have used a better brand.
I have the cast iron lower arms so can't change just the ball joint, the whole arm needs to get swapped out.
 

bretti_kivi

Member
interesting. mine is really bad from 120km/h down but non-existent at 60km/h. Already tried to plane the discs flat with multiple hard stops from 60-70km/h, that improved things a tad but not enough. The lower arms are quite old, though - they're not original, I just don't remember when they were swapped. 2010, maybe... anyway, have to go for MoT equivalent this month so will ask the tester to take a look.

EDIT says: ha, it was 2012. Fair enough, I will go test the rear drums and see if that helps - I've just had a (front) bearing done. Then maybe it's new wishbone time again...
 
Last edited:

Legatron

Member
Previous owner cheaper out on tyres and put 45 profile tyres on, not the 50, so this probably doesn't help the shock absorbtion into the lower arm.
 

Fredaudi

A2OC Donor
I am afraid that we are in the same landscape as with droplinks; the only thing that will last over years, are Audi oe or Meyle HD, Febi Plus.Maybe Lemförder.
Meyle cast iron with bearing and joint cost € 120 for both.
Not peanuts.
 
Top