Still having crazy idle stuff going on. video to come.

B

brum

Member
Hey there,

I'm beginning to think i should have never bought a 1.6 fsi....

So here i am again,

I have a 1.6 fsi, with a mind of its own.. When sat stationary, the car will idle fine around 650 rpm.

After a few mins, its seems like something is kicking in and the revs start to go up, to around 1800rpm.. and then they will dro back down to 600, and the feels like its going to stall..

and then it does it again, and again, and again.... whatss gong oonnnnn!??!?!?!

I had done so much work to the car recently, here is a list of stuff, to eliminate possible cures..

Fuel Throttle Body Cleaned
Wynns Dip 3 treatment used
All new spark plugs and coils
New Cam and Crank sensor
New fuel filter
New fuel pump
New MAF sensor
New Clutch + Flywheel
(+ Service Parts)

this is what I can remember off the top of my head...

I have spent a small fortune on this car and i do love it.. so i dont want to get rid, but surely i can be needing to spend much more?!?!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2EZxTTqUq4&feature=plcp heres the vid link..

thanks again!
 
Well brum, i must say you certainly have thrown money at your car - must have cost a tidy amount!
We had a similar issue with our FSi, but it also threw up the engine management light.
Eventually traced a fault with the coolant temp sensor, so i replaced the entire thermo housing which includes both sensors.
Also replaced the spark plugs with NGK iridium type (which are shorter) and its been running well since.
Just as another thought, have you carried out a compression test? these lean burn FSi engine do burn valves - so that could also be a possibility.

hope you sort it soon, let us know how you get along.

blue skies
tony
 
i have same prob with lesser intensity. i firstly cleaned the throttle body, replaced the MAP sensor, replaced the spark plugs, did the wynns treatment. i hope u have gotten the throttle values reset using vcds. i got that done and the car was much better and responsive to accelerator however the accelerator live values were not comin up on the vcds system. the garage advised me to replace the accelerator pedal which comes tgether with the sensor on top. checked the price from audi dealer in leicester and the price is about 70 quid. I am yet to do the replacement but checkin if pair coding is required after the replacement like radio/stereo etc. does yours come up with any engine management lights and any error codes on vagcom?
cheers
IYK
 
brum said:
...
Fuel Throttle Body Cleaned
Wynns Dip 3 treatment used
All new spark plugs and coils
New Cam and Crank sensor
New fuel filter
New fuel pump
New MAF sensor
New Clutch + Flywheel
(+ Service Parts)...
Click to expand...

When you cleaned the throttle body, did you also clean as much of the inlet manifold (that it connects to) as possible? There are little pipes just beneath where the throttle body sits that also need to be clear, and which get gummed up just as easily or more so than the throttle bod itself.

I would also agree with Tony to change the coolant temperature sensor as that has weird symptoms of false readings. I beleive that would give a fault code on VAGCOM/VCDS though, but having said that mine only gave intermittent faults, so sometimes the symptom might be there but only detected occasionally. Definitely worth trying though, and considering it's only an extra 30 mins of work and less than a tenner to replace.

The other thing to consider is that you've used Wynns Dip3 treatment which is basicaly Carb Cleaner. If your inlet was particularly dirty, it might 'knock' off bits of detritis (much like what you would have cleaned off the throttle body) and they will go straight into the inlet and combustion. It's possible they'd get caught in a valve which would give you all sorts of funny things like that which you've mentioned. It is also possible this will clear after a while without you doing anything more. The expensive option is to have the head and inlet taken off and cleaned, but obviously do the above steps first to be sure.

Jon
 
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Hi sounds to me like an air leak causing un metered air into the system raising the idle speed at which point the car shuts the throttle to drop rpm, it then is on the point of stalling. It is also possible that the egr valve metal ribbed pipe has split causing air to be drawn into exhaust and causing exhaust sensors to false read. The steel pipe is common to crack usually at 50-60k miles. My money is on an air leak either where components have been removed and a new gasket has not been used or in the pipe work.
One other point worth checking is that the oil filler cap and assembly(has to be removed for coil packs) is sealed to the engine as any leaks here will affect the running- just try removing the dip stick or oil filler with the engine running. Hope this helps. Mike
 
Just to add to Mike's comment, this should throw up errors either on the dash display itself (emissions &/or EPC) and show up in a diagnostic scan. Only thing is that an air leak should really have effect from the word go, whereas you state that the car idles fine for the first few minutes.
 
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