stubbon Nut !

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OldBanger

Member
Just started to change my tie/track rod ends (y-plate TDI).

Am I right in thinking that the bolt (of the track rod end)- that feeds vertically through the wheel hub - is actually screwed/threaded through the hole - and if so - how the blooming ell do I get it out - since its rusted to crud ?

Added to this – now I’ve removed the nut – I’m finding it tricky to re-screw it on (possible cos I hit the bolt with a hammer a couple of times thinking it would just knock through – oops)

oh- and the alan-key shape at the top of the old ones has rusted into a perfect circle - doah !

(I’ve detached the steering shaft end no problem)



cheers in anticipation
 
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OldBanger said:
Just started to change my tie/track rod ends (y-plate TDI).

Am I right in thinking that the bolt (of the track rod end)- that feeds vertically through the wheel hub - is actually screwed/threaded through the hole - and if so - how the blooming ell do I get it out - since its rusted to crud ?

Added to this – now I’ve removed the nut – I’m finding it tricky to re-screw it on (possible cos I hit the bolt with a hammer a couple of times thinking it would just knock through – oops)

oh- and the alan-key shape at the top of the old ones has rusted into a perfect circle - doah !

(I’ve detached the steering shaft end no problem)



cheers in anticipation
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Hi Oldbanger ... the track rod end is a tapered fit and drawn tight by the nut, you should be able to knock it out with a hammer, assuming you can get the nut off, failing that ... maybe cut it off with an angle grinder.
You could maybe place a jack under the track rod end to stop the bolt turning, spray lots of WD40 and hit the spanner with a mallet.
 
Tomscar said:
Hi Oldbanger ... the track rod end is a tapered fit and drawn tight by the nut, you should be able to knock it out with a hammer, assuming you can get the nut off, failing that ... maybe cut it off with an angle grinder.
You could maybe place a jack under the track rod end to stop the bolt turning, spray lots of WD40 and hit the spanner with a mallet.
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Cheers Tomscar,

I'd tried a ball-joint spliter too- but then stopped - thinking that it must be threaded into the hub - with a nut on for good measure. (the hammer i was using was a bit febble)

I have indeed removed the nut - sooooo, - you suggest - I should just continue to hit it with a hammer and it should just pop through ?

(I always like to double check with people - cos written instuctions can sometimes be mis-read)
 
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WD40 is a waste of time, you need to use a proper penetrating oil such as Plus Gas or PB Blaster, WD40 is a water displacement fluid.

There may even be the need to apply some heat to the part.
 
OldBanger said:
Cheers Tomscar,

I'd tried a ball-joint spliter too- but then stopped - thinking that it must be threaded into the hub - with a nut on for good measure. (the hammer i was using was a bit febble)

I have indeed removed the nut - sooooo, - you suggest - I should just continue to hit it with a hammer and it should just pop through ?

(I always like to double check with people - cos written instuctions can sometimes be mis-read)
Click to expand...
Personally I would soak it in penetrating fluid ( I've not had a problem using WD40 for this) and beat it out into submission with a club hammer, it should only be a taper fit and the rust should give way eventually ...
 
cheers lads (Tomscar,AudiLad & spike)

i've been using one of these
www.halfords.com

BALL JOINT SEPARATOR - FORK TYPE | Halfords UK

Shop the latest Laser ball joint separator fork at Halfords UK
www.halfords.com www.halfords.com

I just had the dog up the park and chatting with a neighbour- who has brought me round one of thows spliters like that Spike.

gonna change back into me oily rags and back too it, and give it some welly

Thanks again, I'll let you know how it goes
 
I have used a propane torch with great success in combination with a hammer.

On a different occasion when the nut had seized entirely I used the angle grinder.
 
Right Gents (& ladies if applicable)

Ive got my first one off, with help of Mr hacksaw. And now need to known what torque settings I should use to tighteen up the nylon tipped bolt.

Also (and here you see how little I know about what Im doing)- the steering rod - which I spun to remove the tie rod end - will the process of turning it - made it shorter- I.E is loosing at one end - result in it entering further at the other end - resulting in my tracking being way out

:)

ps - Propane sounds fun ;)
 
OldBanger said:
Right Gents (& ladies if applicable)

Ive got my first one off, with help of Mr hacksaw. And now need to known what torque settings I should use to tighteen up the nylon tipped bolt.

Also (and here you see how little I know about what Im doing)- the steering rod - which I spun to remove the tie rod end - will the process of turning it - made it shorter- I.E is loosing at one end - result in it entering further at the other end - resulting in my tracking being way out

:)

ps - Propane sounds fun ;)
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20N + 90° according to the workshop manual.
Turning the tie rod clockwise into the track rod end with a 13mm spanner for either side will toe the front of the wheel outwards.
 
Never hit the threaded section of a track rod end use shock method on the knuckle to release the taper!

My ball joint splitter is dusty and is only used if the ball joint is kaput or we have arrived at a desperate state if nowt else will shift it as usually wrecks the dust cover!

String is your best diy to carry out toe adjustment works great but its a bit of a faff!
 
You have saved a lot of money by replacing the track rod ends yourself. Invest a little of that saving in a 4 wheel alignment.
 
OldBanger said:
Also (and here you see how little I know about what Im doing)- the steering rod - which I spun to remove the tie rod end - will the process of turning it - made it shorter- I.E is loosing at one end - result in it entering further at the other end - resulting in my tracking being way out
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The inner end of the tie rod is a ball joint on the steering rack, so turning the steering rod won't affect its length. As others have said, once it's back together get the tracking checked and set up properly.
 
Tbf most garages would charge about £20 a side plus parts (plus vat unless you pay cash) however if they are seized onto the tie rod they can be a real pain in the rectum, for the price of the tie rods its best practice to replace them aswell and maybe the gaitors but where do you draw the line!!
 
Howey said:
Never hit the threaded section of a track rod end use shock method on the knuckle to release the taper!

My ball joint splitter is dusty and is only used if the ball joint is kaput or we have arrived at a desperate state if nowt else will shift it as usually wrecks the dust cover!

String is your best diy to carry out toe adjustment works great but its a bit of a faff!
Click to expand...
Edit if its scrap suppose it dont matter where you hit it (woke up now lol)
 
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