**Sudden stop - please help!**

Interesting pictures Bret - looks like when the chain breaks it jams the crank gear which being a tight fit (but not keyed) skids on the crank whilst everything comes to a juddering halt?

Simon.
 
Let's hope it's not the chain and it's the alternator pully siezed.

If it's the chain, and the chain is wrapped around the sprockets stoping the crankshaft turning i don't think there is enough movement to bypass the DMF and get to the 2 bolts. The DMF on a TDi90 has a recess built in, so once turned via the crankshaft it allows access to the bolts.

If the engine cannot be turned I've seen "mechanics" destroy the sump rather than work out the correct way to access those bolts, and then once the chain is free the DMF can be rotated so the recess lines up with the bolts the remainder of the sump and the hidden bolts can be removed.

So - Gearbox doesn't need to be fully removed, but it needs to be unbolted and moved away from the engine enough to give access to the hidden bolts. - perhaps I should have initially been a little clearer.

Keeping all fingers crossed for you still
Jeff
 
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For reference, this is the T10058 tool, pic courtesy of ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswag...191554&hash=item4b166233ba:g:h~gAAOSwUH5aX31v

Cheers Spike

I’ll be using a ball end allen key to put the 2 difficult screws back in my box tomorrow and that’s with the ability to turn the engine. Even with the DMF gap in place it’s not possible to get a drive square on the end of the screw. Driving steel into what looks like brass there is a big risk of crossed threads.
 
Gearbox doesn't need to be fully removed, but it needs to be unbolted and moved away from the engine enough to give access to the hidden bolts.
Jeff

Just now searching through my manual for torque figures for today's jobs. Noticed that the flywheel is held onto the crank by 6 bolts.

Is it the flywheel that has to move a fraction to give access to the sump screws? I'm accessing the screws through what looks like a cutout in the front of the flywheel.

Edit; could have been looking at a petrol engine flywheel.
 
Found this quote in an old post -
Yes, the sump can be taken off without removal of the gearbox, exactly as Steveb described. The flywheel rim does mask a couple of the sump bolts but the rim is scalloped to give access once the flywheel is rotated to the correct position.

Cheers Spike
 
I know Spike but I was looking at it yesterday and the gearbox casting provides for a long tool to get up there. I have to turn the crank so that the relieved area on the rim of the flywheel is positioned allow access too. The relieved area of flywheel also creates space for the sump to come down / go up. If I couldn’t move the flywheel I don’t think I could get to the screws and if I did the sump would still be stuck behind the flywheel rim.
I’m having a coffee then I going to refit the sump. Just had a practice, will take some pictures.
 
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Just started the car having replaced the chain as precaution at 150k miles. When I stopped it, the position of the flywheel illustrates the reason I questioned being able to remove the sump without removing the fly wheel if the engine is unable to turn.

This picture shows reasonable access to the screw past the flywheel recess. The gearbox casting does not cause an obstruction so removing the box would not provide any better access to the screw. Also you can't see the edge of the sump flange. Every bit of that gap in the flywheel is required to remove the sump. The gap is actually slightly longer than the flange presumably to facilitate sump removal? The component limiting access to the screws is the flywheel and not the gearbox:

Gu8oR4D.jpg


Access to the screw is very difficult anywhere else around the flywheel. Again the gearbox is clear but the flywheel is in the way. The gap between the flywheel and sump is very small making it, I suspect, impossible to remove the sump:

BtTknQx.jpg


I may have missed something but these observations prompted me to ask my original question.
 
i think if i was LionJag i would take the engine out
Do =cambelt/waterpump/balance chain/turbo off+clean/new clutch + wotever else looks iffy
 
i think if i was LionJag i would take the engine out
Do =cambelt/waterpump/balance chain/turbo off+clean/new clutch + wotever else looks iffy

I would too but I don’t think LionJag does the mechanical work. Finding somebody who is competent enough to do that at an affordable price is going to be a tall order.

How is Liv?
 
I would too but I don’t think LionJag does the mechanical work. Finding somebody who is competent enough to do that at an affordable price is going to be a tall order.

How is Liv?

Hi Phil

Liv is stuck in the garage, awaiting her carriage to a competent garage that can alleviate her current concerns.

I wish I was mechanically competent but I have neither the requisite skills nor the time to work on her. While it makes sense to have all the aforementioned work done, it'll cost a pretty penny.

I had planned on keeping Liv for a few years more (we half joke that my children will inherit her), so the investment would make (some) sense. However, Mrs LionJag has obtained brochures for the Audi A1 and MINI and has her eye on a new car for the household...
 
Out of the two, the A1 is the one to go for. However, now is not a good time to buy an A1 as it's due a major facelift in the next 12 months. Get Liv sorted, it may be a pretty penny, but what does it equate to? A couple of months payment on a new A1?
 
The reason I said the gearbox will need to come off is, that you will need to remove clutch, then flywheel to gain access to the two sump bolts. and yes I would strongly recommend doing the cambelt kit at the same time as part of the job, whether due or not.


Sarge
 
Decent used sump £50 eBay. Cheaper to take a big hammer to it. Retrieve the bit held by the two screws once the chain is fixed.
Never thought I would write something like that but the figures stack up.
 
Decent used sump £50 eBay. Cheaper to take a big hammer to it. Retrieve the bit held by the two screws once the chain is fixed.
Never thought I would write something like that but the figures stack up.


IF, you were to take this route, it could be a case of the chain loosening off and dropping into the sump with the hammer actions/vibrations, however there could be other components you could damage/scratch inside like the Plastics oil pick up, crank etc, also a lot of metal fragments will fly about inside there, which could cause other forms of damage, perhaps at a later date not to mention meticulous cleaning would be required in order not to leave metal fragments inside there.
 
I agree regarding the plastics but having just done a chain I think if it snapped I’d grind around the sump without quite going through then hit the bits left with hammer / chisel.
Can see both sides of the argument.
 
Hi everyone

Apologies for the late update. In actual fact, there was no real update. Work commitments meant that I wasn't able to sort anything out with Liv until Thursday. She was delivered on a transporter to an A2 specialist who can successfully diagnose and, hopefully, repair the damage without it costing me a fortune!

I'm glad she's in safe hands. While waiting for a diagnosis at the initial garage, where I was assured she would be left secure at night, Liv was left on a dark street with the driver's window fully open (it rained last week in Birmingham) and all four of her wheel caps were stolen...

And the boiler at my home went kaput yesterday. If anyone has any recommendations on decent boiler cover and repair for a Worcester Bosch, I'd be glad of any assistance.

I look forward to my little break away next week. I need the rest, believe me...
 
Hi everyone

Apologies for the late update. In actual fact, there was no real update. Work commitments meant that I wasn't able to sort anything out with Liv until Thursday. She was delivered on a transporter to an A2 specialist who can successfully diagnose and, hopefully, repair the damage without it costing me a fortune!

I'm glad she's in safe hands. While waiting for a diagnosis at the initial garage, where I was assured she would be left secure at night, Liv was left on a dark street with the driver's window fully open (it rained last week in Birmingham) and all four of her wheel caps were stolen...

And the boiler at my home went kaput yesterday. If anyone has any recommendations on decent boiler cover and repair for a Worcester Bosch, I'd be glad of any assistance.

I look forward to my little break away next week. I need the rest, believe me...
Thankfully she's in good hands now, are the previous garage replacing the wheel caps stolen while 'secure'? Best of luck with the repairs (to both).
 
Hi everyone

Apologies for the late update. In actual fact, there was no real update. Work commitments meant that I wasn't able to sort anything out with Liv until Thursday. She was delivered on a transporter to an A2 specialist who can successfully diagnose and, hopefully, repair the damage without it costing me a fortune!

I'm glad she's in safe hands. While waiting for a diagnosis at the initial garage, where I was assured she would be left secure at night, Liv was left on a dark street with the driver's window fully open (it rained last week in Birmingham) and all four of her wheel caps were stolen...

And the boiler at my home went kaput yesterday. If anyone has any recommendations on decent boiler cover and repair for a Worcester Bosch, I'd be glad of any assistance.

I look forward to my little break away next week. I need the rest, believe me...

Call Worcester Bosch direct. I think they repair your boiler for £270 unless it is beyond economic repair.

What went wrong? Is it a mechanical failure, fan motor etc, or is there nothing obvious and showing a fault code?
 
+1 for calling Worcester direct - they have a fixed cost one off repair option where they will turn up and repair any fault they find.

Simon.
 
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