Sump Bolt Cross Threaded

N

N8P

Member
Hi Guys

Ok, so i picked up my new A2 (to me) at the last weekend & drove it back up to Scotland, however today I received a text from the seller highlighting that they had just bumped into their old mechanic, who use to service the car & had mentioned that the sump plug may be a little iffy & that it might be cross threaded? Saying he the(mechanic) would use a pump to suck out oil instead of draining. The fact that the seller has past this info on to me now, im sure it was a honest mistake.

Anyway, im just wondering perhaps a 'tap' rethreaded to the next thread size up is the only way to go (apart from obviously - checking to see if it is indeed cross threaded!

Anybody got a link to a tool/product they can recommend?

Thanks
 
If it is an FSI and you are doing it yourself please check my previous thread on removing the sump. This is the most troublesome part.

I went a size up on the thread and it is fine now. I found the old threads' pieces floating in the sump and pick-up. You need an M15 tap, a drill bit a bolt and a washer. I could not find a tap like this where I live so I took it to a shop and they did it for 20 EUR.

Evros
 
Can an extractor be used to change the oil on a FSI?

I don’t mean to start a debate on whether we agree with the practice, however is it possible for an extractor pipe to reach the bottom of the sump?
 
Mine stripped on removal many years ago, helicoil has held firm since. I can't link I'm afraid as it was repaired by Tony at A2Cars.
 
Helicoil it. You can buy Helicoil Kits with correct drill, Helicoils and tool to fit them. Try local stores that sell nuts, bolts and fittings.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
With the sump on the car I think it's quite a tricky operation to ensure the helicoil is installed 'dead square' to the sump plug sealing washer face.
Even if the standard steel washer is replaced with a softer copper version the plug could weep if the drilling and re-tapping operation wanders off by a fraction.
In my view, short term the suction pump idea is probably the way to go - just like the Main Dealers do it

Thinks.................Wonder how often S/H sumps come up for sale

Cheers Spike
 
N8P said:
Hi Guys

Ok, so i picked up my new A2 (to me) at the last weekend & drove it back up to Scotland, however today I received a text from the seller highlighting that they had just bumped into their old mechanic, who use to service the car & had mentioned that the sump plug may be a little iffy & that it might be cross threaded? Saying he the(mechanic) would use a pump to suck out oil instead of draining. The fact that the seller has past this info on to me now, im sure it was a honest mistake.

Anyway, im just wondering perhaps a 'tap' rethreaded to the next thread size up is the only way to go (apart from obviously - checking to see if it is indeed cross threaded!

Anybody got a link to a tool/product they can recommend?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Hello ,
I had the same problem with my 1.4 petrol, which had had regular servicing.
When I went to change the oil immediately after I bought it last year, I came across a crossed/stripped thread that was only just holding.
I was swearing to myself about so-called competent mechanics.
I've been working on cars for years, and to me it's inexcusable.
I bought an M15 tap (German made). It's like a second tap. Some of the kits advertised (probably Chinese junk) look more like plug taps, which would be more difficult to start squarely.
I cut the thread very carefully using copious amounts of cutting oil, removing the swarf every half-turn; picking it out with a dental tool.
I then poured 3 separate pints of hot flushing oil through to clear any remaining particles.
The kit was about £39 from a tool supplier on-line. It's cheaper than a helicoil kit.
The kit comes with lots of extra sump plugs and copper washers.
It's a V- Coil Sump Plug Thread Repair System M15. Google that.
I can't remember the supplier.
Hope this helps.
 
N8P said:
Hi Guys

Ok, so i picked up my new A2 (to me) at the last weekend & drove it back up to Scotland, however today I received a text from the seller highlighting that they had just bumped into their old mechanic, who use to service the car & had mentioned that the sump plug may be a little iffy & that it might be cross threaded? Saying he the(mechanic) would use a pump to suck out oil instead of draining. The fact that the seller has past this info on to me now, im sure it was a honest mistake.

Anyway, im just wondering perhaps a 'tap' rethreaded to the next thread size up is the only way to go (apart from obviously - checking to see if it is indeed cross threaded!

Anybody got a link to a tool/product they can recommend?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Try g.rfastenersengineeringsuppliesltd.

It was easily accessible with the undertray removed on my 1.4 AUA petrol.
I don't know about other engines though.
N8P said:
Hi Guys

Ok, so i picked up my new A2 (to me) at the last weekend & drove it back up to Scotland, however today I received a text from the seller highlighting that they had just bumped into their old mechanic, who use to service the car & had mentioned that the sump plug may be a little iffy & that it might be cross threaded? Saying he the(mechanic) would use a pump to suck out oil instead of draining. The fact that the seller has past this info on to me now, im sure it was a honest mistake.

Anyway, im just wondering perhaps a 'tap' rethreaded to the next thread size up is the only way to go (apart from obviously - checking to see if it is indeed cross threaded!

Anybody got a link to a tool/product they can recommend?

Thanks
Click to expand...
:)
 
The sump bolt has the same OEM part number whatever engine you have, whether it's a 1.2/1.4 diesel, 1.4 petrol, or 1.6 petrol.

The OEM part number is N90813202

The specification of the sump bolt is M14X1.5X22

This means that the diameter of the thread is 14mm and it has a 1.5mm thread pitch. It's important to note that not all M14 threads use a 1.5mm thread pitch. Some M14 threads use a 2.0mm thread pitch, (ie. M14x2).

See this wikipedia entry for information on ISO (International Standards Organisation) threads. You will see that M14x1.5 is a fine thread pitch and M14x2 is a course thread pitch.

ISO metric screw thread - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org

The length of the bolt is 22mm which is measured from under the bolt head to the end of the threaded section of the bolt, not the total length of the bolt.

1.4 Petrol Engine

1.2/1.4 Diesel Engine

1.6 Petrol Engine
 
Last edited:
carlston said:
The sump bolt has the same OEM part number whatever engine you have, whether it's a 1.2/1.4 diesel, 1.4 petrol, or 1.6 petrol.

The OEM part number is N90813202

The specification of the sump bolt is M14X1.5X22

This means that the diameter of the thread is 14mm and it has a 1.5mm thread pitch. It's important to note that not all 14mm threads use a 1.5mm thread pitch. Some 14mm threads use a 2.0mm thread pitch. So if you were buying a thread chaser or tap, it's important to get an M14x1.5 not an M14x2

See this wikipedia entry for information on ISO (International Standards Organisation) threads. You will see that M14x1.5 is a fine thread pitch and M14x2 is a course thread pitch.

ISO metric screw thread - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org

The length of the bolt is 22mm which is measured from under the bolt head to the end of the threaded section of the bolt, not the total length of the bolt.

Maybe buy a new sump bolt (which should come with a sealing washer). Then when you remove the old sump bolt, you can have a look to see (after cleaning it) if there is any damage to the sump bolt's thread. If so, do not reuse the old sump bolt.

You may be able to just nip a new sump bolt up enough so that it doesn't come loose, and in future oil changes just use an oil extractor through the dip stick. However, the sump's thread may be so bad that it's not possible to nip up a new sump bolt.

1.4 Petrol Engine

1.2/1.4 Diesel Engine

1.6 Petrol Engine

If someone has simply cross threaded the sump bolt, do not use a tap as this removes metal. To repair a cross threaded sump you want a thread chaser.
Click to expand...
Thanks,
The M15 tap supplied is compatible with the replacement sump plugs in the kit.
Mine was half stripped as well, which was why I chose to tap it out to M15.
If you just want to recut/clean up the original M14 thread, your comments are valid.
Be careful not to confuse spark plug M14 threads with sump plugs.
I always prefer to drain rather than have the oil sucked out; but then I'm an old fashioned git.?
 
GMH499 said:
Thanks,
The M15 tap supplied is compatible with the replacement sump plugs in the kit.
Mine was half stripped as well, which was why I chose to tap it out to M15.
If you just want to recut/clean up the original M14 thread, your comments are valid.
Be careful not to confuse spark plug M14 threads with sump plugs.
I always prefer to drain rather than have the oil sucked out; but then I'm an old fashioned git.?
Click to expand...
The M15 could be the way to go if the sump's thread is too bad. Here's a link to an M15x1.5x22 sump bolt on autodoc

www.autodoc.co.uk

Sealing Plug, oil sump SW-Stahl 03011L Spanner size: 20, Thread Size: M15 — Buy now!

Buy SW-Stahl 03011L Sealing Plug, oil sump Spanner size: 20, Thread Size: M15 at low cost ❗ RRP: £ 7,95 — Our price: £ 6,76 — you save 28% ❗ Buy now ❗
www.autodoc.co.uk www.autodoc.co.uk

Normally, you would drill out to 13.5mm before using an M15x1.5 tap. But if the threads of an M14 are completely stripped you will already have a 14mm diameter hole to take the M15 tap. Not ideal as the thread won't be as strong as a 13.5mm drilled hole that is then tapped out with an M15x1.5 tap, but it should do the job if you don't overtighten the bolt.

The link above is actually quite good, because the M15x1.5 sump bolt is the same 22mm length as the original Audi A2 sump bolt...and that seems to be quite rare...most sump bolts seem to be a lot shorter, often around only 11mm or 12mm in length.
 
The sump bolts supplied in the V- Coil kit are 14mm in length.
Thanks for the link to Autodoc. I've seen this site, but not regarding these M15 bolts.
They come with copper washers, which I've always preferred when fastening into aluminium.
I always anneal them too.
Just use some mechanical sympathy, and don't hand it over to the local ham fisted gorilla to do!
 
Seems to be very common that the oil pan / sump threads eventually gets stripped. My car is no exemption. As it happened I drilled a hole across the screw head, added engine silicone sealant over the threads, turned the screw in by hand force only and locked the screw with a steel wire. For the next oil changed I had bought a little rescue kit with an M15 x 1,5 tap and some "oil plugs". Easy job. The new tap easily entered into the old threads and made them 0.5 mm deeper all around. Then I cleaned the area with paper, some air through the engine and flushed with old oil and some new oil.
Just after 14:00 in this video a repair kit is shown:
 
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