Suspension issues, advice appreciated

Mightyleader

Mightyleader

Member
Hey all,

I took Diane into get serviced today at Autodeutsche in Camden.
I asked for them to take a look at the brakes (as they have been sticking after being left for week without driving sometimes) and the cam belt.
They came back to me saying that the disks looked new (they were listed as replaced before I bought it) but were warped from overheating, the pads and likely callipers needed replacing too. There is also a loose wire who’s purpose is not immediately apparent.
This was disheartening as otherwise she’s always seemed in great shape.
However, they also said that the suspension, front and rear, looks badly corroded and the rear subframe too.
I’m not an expert on car mechanics beyond understanding what things do, so while they appeared to be sincere I really don’t know whether I’m being overquoted.

They did send me a video of the underside of the car so I can either attach it or make some screenshots of it to demonstrate.
I’ve asked them to complete the service tasks and then quote me on brakes (incl. callipers) and then the suspension work separately. I know it’s going to be expensive, but perhaps I can do some each month to spread the cost. I’m awaiting the quote.

So my questions are:

1. Am I right in thinking it’s worth doing? I want to keep her for the long haul ideally.
2. Are they correct based on pics I attach below?
3. Could I reasonably phase the repair over a few months as I hope?
4. Any recommendations on places that might give better value?
5. Should I uprate shocks etc of stick with standard parts?

Not a great day all in all so be gentle :)

Drivers Side Rear
D2C70A69-2C0D-4796-8333-9051A5E43E0F.jpeg

Passenger Side Rear
F40DAE78-91BC-4D75-A2FF-1712316B6410.jpeg

Drivers Side Front
025288F2-BE22-4461-A608-24C9DD29FDB5.jpeg

Passengers Side Front
E31A4AE3-CD49-4C6C-B790-F9A9E6C4C561.jpeg

The mystery wire
6445CAEF-BCCE-4874-AF7F-4B173AFC3D43.jpeg
 
I’m no expert but they are correct it’s badly corroded.
Yes you can get repairs done over a few months.
I’m sure @Birchall knows a mechanic in the London area.
Hopefully the experts will be along soon
 
Yes, if you dont mind getting your hands dirty it does not look too bad to me. The rear axles are quite substantial, and although the shockers and brake back plates do look a bit far gone and hour or so with a wire brush can work wonders. There is an excellent recent thread on rear axle refurbishment.
What Would concern me MUCH more is the state of the front suspension arms if they are pressed rather than cast.
 
Sadly I agree with Colin we have a2s since 2006 ..Never had one looking like this ..I’ve seen a couple lately shocked to be honest ..ive always cleaned off underneath regularly and anything steel wiped over with a bit of wax oil or even chainsaw thick sticky oil on more than one occasion...but then I’ve done this on all our vehicles throughout the years a lot of people tend to look under the bonnet keep it topped up with oil some fluids and don’t worry about the underneath I’m a great believer thats just as important .... No wonder people are always really pleased with any vehicle I get rid of...
 
From what I can see you have cast lower front control arms, this suggests that they have been replaced, (very good!), from 2003/4 A2’s were sold with welded pressed Steel ones and rotted badly. Given the state of the rest of the suspension I guess these failed a while ago. Do you know the history of the car as it looks like it has been subject to a very damp corrosive atmosphere. The car suffers on all the suspension and sub frame components in say coastal locations. I would think that the loose wire is the brake pad wear indicator. If the two wires are twisted together they override the dash indicator. All things can be replaced over time.
 
The cut cable is the least of your worries. As mentioned it is the brake pad wear sensor cable that tends to break internally when the vehicles get old - the cable connects to a plug and cable from the disk pads. By cutting the cable and joining the ends it removes the brake wear warning on the dash. There is a repair kit and I did mine very recently but you can easily check the disk pads for wear simply by looking at them through the spokes on the wheels, certainly on your wheels with wide space between the spokes. You just need to remember to do the check, say every month; only takes a few seconds.

Looks to me that the vehicle has been regularly driven down a muddy track. Problem is that in the winter the mud gets soaked in salt and then sits there eating away at the metal. It all needs washing off with a power jet and then see what the damage is. After any replacement regularly power jet the suspension and under the car, especially in or after the winter, but don't get ultra close and wear away any paint on the new bits.

Good luck.
 
I would like to see the underside after a really good clean. It is difficult to say if it is bad corrosion or light corrosion covered in muck. I reserve judging as to what needs immediate attention until I can see it cleaned off. Yes the wire is for the brake wear indicator. I would drive the car in a lot of puddles to really soak the underside then either pressure wash it up on a ramp or use one of those drive through automatic car washes that really wash the underside of the car.
 
Thanks everyone for your input, it's much appreciated.
The car had one owner before me and I know it spent a fair few years in Edinburgh area, so that would map to cold, wet environments.
I'm getting the service and cam belt/water pump work done now then will put together money and wisdom for the rest of the work and, as suggested, give things a clean up to get a better idea of the work really needed.
Any suggestions for good people to direct my money towards to get the suspension and brakes work done will be appreciated too.
@Birchall you seem to be the man with the knowledge of London-based mechanics?

I'll update as I know more.
 
Had and still tackling similar problems:

Brake woes, front disc failure at low miles and other problems

Rear drums not discs. Well if you have fitted new drums and shoes and set the automatic adjusters correctly, then either a sticking or corroded slave cylinder or the hand brake is incorrectly adjusted or seized. Are the rear wheels free to turn when neither the foot brake nor hand brake are...
www.a2oc.net

How-to repair / restore your Audi A2 rear axle

How-to repair / restore your Audi A2 rear axle. First decide what you want to achieve, consider your skills / how much labour you are prepared to fund to correct / restore your A2’s rear axle. There are basically three options each listed below with a brief overview of work involved. Option 1...
www.a2oc.net
 
Edinburgh like anywhere in Scotland will be both wet and well salted for several months of the year (rather more than England in my experience) ; by the look of it shocks and if you think so, front discs, but not at all surprising, I've replaced the entire set of brakes and most suspension parts on my 3 A2s since acquisition (as they are all at least 16 years old, at least 2 of which spent most of their lives up here). Disc and pad sets are usually pretty well priced from Eurocarparts (or their Ebay store) - ie have a look for the Mintex brake box or equivalent Pagid as there are sometimes deals for 2 front discs & pads for less than 50 quid ; there are various places that do decent prices on Bilstein B4 shocks now and again (especially with an Ebay 20% reduction), and a wire brush / some waxoil will work wonders on the rear axle and other oxidised bits as noted above.

Don't be surprised if you need a new battery - if it is a VARTA with 8Z0 code numbers on top it may well be original. Having said that, since your front arms have been done (cast instead of pressed as noted above), it is plausible the battery has already been replaced. Also worth noting as a BBY that starting will require a lot less juice than the equivalent Tdi, so even if original may have a bit more life in it yet. Other spare parts - check the for sale pages here (if you've not subscribed, it is a £2 upgrade to your account to have access).
 
Mightyleader said:
Hey all,

I took Diane into get serviced today at Autodeutsche in Camden.
I asked for them to take a look at the brakes (as they have been sticking after being left for week without driving sometimes) and the cam belt.
They came back to me saying that the disks looked new (they were listed as replaced before I bought it) but were warped from overheating, the pads and likely callipers needed replacing too. There is also a loose wire who’s purpose is not immediately apparent.
This was disheartening as otherwise she’s always seemed in great shape.
However, they also said that the suspension, front and rear, looks badly corroded and the rear subframe too.
I’m not an expert on car mechanics beyond understanding what things do, so while they appeared to be sincere I really don’t know whether I’m being overquoted.

They did send me a video of the underside of the car so I can either attach it or make some screenshots of it to demonstrate.
I’ve asked them to complete the service tasks and then quote me on brakes (incl. callipers) and then the suspension work separately. I know it’s going to be expensive, but perhaps I can do some each month to spread the cost. I’m awaiting the quote.

So my questions are:

1. Am I right in thinking it’s worth doing? I want to keep her for the long haul ideally.
2. Are they correct based on pics I attach below?
3. Could I reasonably phase the repair over a few months as I hope?
4. Any recommendations on places that might give better value?
5. Should I uprate shocks etc of stick with standard parts?

Not a great day all in all so be gentle :)

Drivers Side Rear
View attachment 71911
Passenger Side Rear
View attachment 71912
Drivers Side Front
View attachment 71913
Passengers Side Front
View attachment 71914
The mystery wire
View attachment 71915
Click to expand...

Well worth getting new Springs and Spring Seats for the Rear Axle too, judging by the pictures! ?
 
Ah. Yes, good point! ???

This is why every time I clean Alison, all visible components are cleaned as thoroughly as possible.

Alison is often driven 530 miles per 7 day working week.
?
 

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Leopard680 said:
Ah. Yes, good point! ???

This is why every time I clean Alison, all visible components are cleaned as thoroughly as possible.

Alison is often driven 530 miles per 7 day working week.
?
Click to expand...
Is this your 240,000 example if so super clean I know it’s all new components but still nice to see ..?
 
greywolfhound said:
Is this your 240,000 example if so super clean I know it’s all new components but still nice to see ..?
Click to expand...

Very kind of you to say so! Thank you very much! Yes, Alison has a few more miles on the clock now.

I try to keep everything as clean as possible; I recently carried out a Deep Clean using a Rug Doctor Machine.

By keeping everything this clean, I can quickly identify any potential problems like leaks and breakages.

The Engine Bay is cleaned about six times a year too! ? ? ?
 

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