TDi 75 AMF coolant leak from hoses tandem vacuum/fuel pump seals?

[froggy]

That looks like a tamperproof clip. If it is the removal tool is an angle grinder.
If it is the type of clip you have posted with the tool then you can usually get them with pincers.

Thanks, I think you are right the clip I attached in the last post doesn’t look quite like the one on the vacuum pipe. Why would somebody do that? I can cut it off but any idea what replacement hose I need? I have ordered some clamp clips from Audi - if I can’t find the tool (I think the one attached might work) to open them would a jubilee clip be strong enough for that pipe?

 

[Little Dog]

Audi sold that hose by the meter at silly money so when I needed it I bought some silicone vac hose from eBay. You may still be able to rescue it though, what is the second clip? It is only a short hose so you should be able to get to the second clip.
I think mine is held by a jubilee clip. I can take a look when the weather improves.
I don't have the tool you posted so I can't advise. Is it the small fuel line clips that you have ordered?

 

[froggy]

Audi sold that hose by the meter at silly money so when I needed it I bought some silicone vac hose from eBay. You may still be able to rescue it though, what is the second clip? It is only a short hose so you should be able to get to the second clip.
I think mine is held by a jubilee clip. I can take a look when the weather improves.
I don't have the tool you posted so I can't advise. Is it the small fuel line clips that you have ordered?

Here is a closer picture of the strange clip, yes I ordered the small fuel line clips, I figured it would be best to put the same clips back on.

 

[Little Dog]

That looks like the reusable type. Get some pincers on it, compress it then angle to flick off the catch.
I’m not sure you have the correct tool in mind for the small fuel pipe clips.

 

[froggy]

Phew that’s a relief, thanks! I’ve ordered some pincers but will have to wait until Monday for them. At least I don’t have to cut it off. I’ll order some of that silicone vac hose too - this whole side of the engine is caked in diesel and oil. Looking forward to degreasing as much as I can. Just need to find the right tool for those little fuel hose clamps. The parts guy at the stealership could vaguely recall the mechanics using a special tool for them, but not unfortunately which tool.

 

[audifan]

Erh, you did look at the manual page I posted I take it? Pointless just steaming into things and causing damage. Always read first then ask questions if it is not clear.

Mole grips or water pump pliers can make suitable alternatives to the Audi tooling.

 

[froggy]

Erh, you did look at the manual page I posted I take it? Pointless just steaming into things and causing damage. Always read first then ask questions if it is not clear.

Mole grips or water pump pliers can make suitable alternatives to the Audi tooling.

I did try to follow the manual - unless I misunderstood, the diagram seems to suggest removing the fuel return hose (2) from the fuel rail and not the tandem pump. I could then follow the next step for using the fuel bulb, to remove diesel from the pump. Unfortunately I got ahead of myself and as you say, steamed ahead before your message came through, about disconnecting from the tandem and not the fuel rail.

My punishment for this was a ruined clip, and torn hose that it turned out Audi no longer make. I could have attached siphon tubing directly to the tandem and saved all that stupidity. I have ordered replacement clips of the same type from Audi and bought new fuel hose today, but I will ask the service department for info on the correct tool to refit that type of clip, without causing damage. Lesson learnt the hard way, I will be more patient from now on.

 

[audifan]

On the page...

Special tools and workshop equipment required

t	Hand-operated vacuum pump with attachments -V.A.G 1390- or diesel extractor -VAS 5226-

t	Bleeder container -V.A.G 1390/1-

t	Hose clip pliers -V.A.G 1921-

t	Audi A2 engine cover protector -VAS 6011-

The engine cover is very hard to find just protect it from damage once removed.
Those pliers are for the " 3 legged " type clips. There is another that has a remote end on it connected by a cable - far better and gets into places you can hardly see. Those other clips you have pictured are a different type and are very difficult to remove and reuse without damage to them. I usually cut those off and replace with a different style.
The hoses harden over time add in the soaking of oil and diesel and they almost weld themselves on.
No need to replace the vacuum line unless it is damaged. Need more cleaning to inspect the part carefully.

 

[froggy]

To replace the damaged section of hose, there is another of those small flat clips at the other undamaged end (in the diagram its at the joint with a kind of sensor at the t section before it heads to the tandem) Do you think replacement with the 3 legged type clips, would clamp the hose securely enough at those joints? Or maybe this spring type

 

[audifan]

The fuel temp sensor. The 3 legged clips are better than Jubilee clips as they remain round where there is a step in a Jubilee clip.

Provided the correct diameter clip is fitted then those you list are fine.

 

[froggy]

Another good day today, rain held off for long periods and no further injuries. The tandem pump and coolant flange are both now off the car! Huge thank you again to everyone who helped. The hidden 10mm nut and thread behind the little plate below the coolant flange (last pic) was an absolute b@!?tar* but thanks to a thread by @Pinkythelabrat I was able to figure it out eventually. I even made a magnetic pick up tool after dropping a screwdriver bit down the engine bay ?

So hopefully I can now clean down the engine and fit the replacement parts, when my new spring clips arrive. One final question for the removal stage - in the attached picture you can see the coolant sensor, in its electrical connector. How do I remove this - looks like a tab clip but I don’t want to snap it!

 

[Catnip64]

One final question for the removal stage - in the attached picture you can see the coolant sensor, in its electrical connector. How do I remove this - looks like a tab clip but I don’t want to snap it!

Same as headlight connectors.

 

[froggy]

Last job today was to clean the engine block down. I know that it has to be spotless, but worried about taking things further for the last of this residue. So far I’ve only used a non scratch pad and dish brush with some engine degreaser. To get the last of the black residue off in the picture, I would probably need to use a proper scourer. So, is this clean enough as is? If not, would a scourer cause damage?

 

[froggy]

Just watched a guy on YouTube using what looks like a roll of sandpaper on his engine block ? guess I’m being over cautious……

 

[Little Dog]

Looks clean enough to me. I wouldn't take Emory Cloth to it.

 

[froggy]

Looks clean enough to me. I wouldn't take Emory Cloth to it.

Thanks Phil, you’ve helped a lot during this process ?? I spoke to my mechanic today and he suggested very lightly and slowly rubbing with a scourer and engine cleaner l, just where the new gasket will sit to try to get a bit more of the residue off, making sure not to score the surface. I’ve followed that advice but not much if any came off to be fair. After some of the videos I’ve seen today, I’m very happy to go ahead fitting the replacement parts now!

 

[Little Dog]

Thanks Phil, you’ve helped a lot during this process ?? I spoke to my mechanic today and he suggested very lightly and slowly rubbing with a scourer and engine cleaner l, just where the new gasket will sit to try to get a bit more of the residue off, making sure not to score the surface. I’ve followed that advice but not much if any came off to be fair. After some of the videos I’ve seen today, I’m very happy to go ahead fitting the replacement parts now!

It only needs to be clean where the tandem pump gasket sits. There definitely needs to be no distortions in that area. It is clean enough now to offer up the new gasket. Put it in place and put two screws through it to hold it and check. Be careful not to distort the gasket. If you are clean inside the area of the gasket it looks good to go to me. Edit, see my later comment regarding surface marks.
The flange is less critical, just make sure there are no hard water deposits. A bit of oil staining is not a problem.
I'd like to suggest when you have your car fixed, you seem committed to it and working on it, that you get the engine, gearbox and bay thoroughly cleaned. This may be problematic but diagnosis and working on the car will be much much easier in the future.

 

[Little Dog]

To replace the damaged section of hose, there is another of those small flat clips at the other undamaged end (in the diagram its at the joint with a kind of sensor at the t section before it heads to the tandem) Do you think replacement with the 3 legged type clips, would clamp the hose securely enough at those joints? Or maybe this spring type

I've had a larger eBay set of these on order for a few days now. Will compress a few and see if they explode. If they don't explode and have good concentricity then they should be good to use. I'll advise.
I've bought these to get me by when a clamp breaks and the car has to be back up and running. Most jobs these days appear to take at least a week so I would order the broken clamp replacements from a Mikalor supplier. I identify the clip number here https://mikalorcompany.com/hose-clamps-and-clips/low-pressure and order from eBay.

 

[Little Dog]

What is going on here, red arrows? If you close your eyes and feel if your finger nail can you feel those marks?
Also are all of your threads good? I'm looking at the yellow circled ones in particular.

 

[froggy]

What is going on here, red arrows? If you close your eyes and feel if your finger nail can you feel those marks?
Also are all of your threads good? I'm looking at the yellow circled ones in particular.View attachment 86658

Threads are good, i will try to have a closer look after work - weather permitting - im pretty sure everywhere that is polished is nice and smooth ??