TDI oil pump drive chain tensioner kit change

Yes i was wondering when to do work and how much roughly it would cost. Thought I would post up my experience as i have no garage i opted to pay for works.
It was a very good heads up.
Thx
 
For info I used this seal for the crankshaft, bonus being it comes with the installing shield. they do say you have to leave it 4hrs before turning the engine to allow it to shrink to the crank.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-1-...1:g:cKMAAOSwmphaFUuu:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true

Don't underestimate how much grief this option may save you (did it work Steve?).

As soon as the crank oil seal housing comes off the engine the seal is scrap and difficult to replace without a VW fitting tool. I think I could possibly pull off fitting a new seal with the engine on a bench by carefully pushing it on but with the engine in the car it was impossible for me without the VW tool.

The tool is not cheap and the above looks like a good option.
 
Don't underestimate how much grief this option may save you (did it work Steve?).

As soon as the crank oil seal housing comes off the engine the seal is scrap and difficult to replace without a VW fitting tool. I think I could possibly pull off fitting a new seal with the engine on a bench by carefully pushing it on but with the engine in the car it was impossible for me without the VW tool.

The tool is not cheap and the above looks like a good option.

Yes it worked on both cars. i did manage to find a "normal" seal that would fit if this one failed to work.

I put the seal in the housing while it was off then gently pushed the whole thing over the crankshaft. like i say worked both times for me.
 
How much effort to replace the clutch side seal? Engine out or does tool allow overall in situ?
 
How much effort to replace the clutch side seal? Engine out or does tool allow overall in situ?

Never done this job on an A2 but if its similar to other VAG cars the clutch seal will be much larger and supplied in an alluminium housing.
The transition tool for the front seal is too small for the rear (clutch) seal. Currently got this challenge with my Golf.
Edit. The manual suggests the clutch end seal is supplied with a seal guide ready fitted and good to go.
 
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Hi all,
I must also change oil pump chain on my ATL, but I have seen that there are two kits from Febi 32266 and 43667.
The latter has the gear wheel, crankshaft 40113 but it is impossible to find it. can you tell me where it is possible to buy it?
Would it really be necessary to replace it?

Lately I'm having several problems, now I have a very strong vibration between 1500 and 2000 rpm, especially when the engine is hot and even with the car stopped and accelerating. The car has 205000 km
 
Hi all,
I must also change oil pump chain on my ATL, but I have seen that there are two kits from Febi 32266 and 43667.
The latter has the gear wheel, crankshaft 40113 but it is impossible to find it. can you tell me where it is possible to buy it?
Would it really be necessary to replace it?

Lately I'm having several problems, now I have a very strong vibration between 1500 and 2000 rpm, especially when the engine is hot and even with the car stopped and accelerating. The car has 205000 km

Interesting I have purchased a Borsehung kit, B16296


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Interesting I have purchased a Borsehung kit, B16296


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However I’m not sure yet, as we are still stripping the engine down as to weather it’s good.


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Hi all,
I must also change oil pump chain on my ATL, but I have seen that there are two kits from Febi 32266 and 43667.
The latter has the gear wheel, crankshaft 40113 but it is impossible to find it. can you tell me where it is possible to buy it?
Would it really be necessary to replace it?

Lately I'm having several problems, now I have a very strong vibration between 1500 and 2000 rpm, especially when the engine is hot and even with the car stopped and accelerating. The car has 205000 km

MIne had a vibration as if you where in the wrong gear, ie changed up to early, it would have been at about thoses revs i replaced my chain, and it's a totally different car now, vibration free.
 
Hi all. Just had a complete oil pump chain tensioner and pulley change on my 2003 plate 1.4 tdi sport. The car engine wise is completely standard.
The cost for the parts
1x febi bilstein oil pump chain tensioner and pulley kit £142
6.5 hrs labour at my local vw/audi specialist £280.
They showed me removed parts.
Tensioner was in relatively good condition but chain showing signs of bad wear due to this
Hi steve is yours the atl engine ..and is this issue more prone to that engine ..as I can’t see it being just this engine ? In which case all the 1.4 tdis may have this ? Ooh err ..☹️ all the years we have had a2s I’ve never come across this issue ,and when mentioning to my garage mate he hadn’t come across it either on the 1.4 eng ...or could this be a just rare event ..Paul
 
Hi. It's the amf 1.4 tdi engine. I think the parts are common to all the A2 diesel engine. Please check first though. I found the febi bilstein website very good for cross referencing.
Best of luck.
Steve
 
Are you saying that this mileage is when these cars needed the chain?
How can you tell if and when they need the chain?

As far as I know unless you hear the chain rattle there is no way of telling. I have as per my post further up that you tend get a vibration at certain revs as if you have changed up to early. is the easiest way to describe it. I changed the 280,000 mile one after reading posts on here, it needed doing as you can imagine. I then needed to do the cambelt on the 164,000 mile car and changed it as I was there, it also needed doing so no way of telling by mileage. Both cars are much smoother now.
 
As far as I know unless you hear the chain rattle there is no way of telling. I have as per my post further up that you tend get a vibration at certain revs as if you have changed up to early. is the easiest way to describe it. I changed the 280,000 mile one after reading posts on here, it needed doing as you can imagine. I then needed to do the cambelt on the 164,000 mile car and changed it as I was there, it also needed doing so no way of telling by mileage. Both cars are much smoother now.
Hi thanks for info it sounds hit and miss !, last year I did the Cambelt & water pump on the old a2 at 109k now 118k so will leave it 4 years milage then will be about 160k when car will be due a belt again that will be the time to do chain kit ...in the meantime if I here a rattle or detect a difference in the two cars I will get it done as the low mile on is only 34k I will be able hopefully to detect any difference thanks for your input ...P
 
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So is this another chain that needs to be replaced on top of the cambelt that Im already aware of?
So 16 year old Audi A2, 115k miles ... its due a cam belt which is £400. maybe a waterpump, and this also ??!
 
So is this another chain that needs to be replaced on top of the cambelt that Im already aware of?
So 16 year old Audi A2, 115k miles ... its due a cam belt which is £400. maybe a waterpump, and this also ??!

To be honest it’s mileage and history thing, one that has been on not the best oil and high mileage might, I’m having it done at 170,000 just in case but I’m not sure if it was needed


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this is how it looks when worn, you need to take the sump off to see it

A2 timing chain.jpg
 
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