The best way to run A2 on bio fuel/SVO/RME/Refined WVO

I just saw tonight program, and they just used normal bottle cooking oil from supermarket, and said you need to change filter or something, or you can use used' cooking oil which you filter.
 
The best Biofuel is Proper Biodiesel = methyl esters, made from waste vegetable oil.

There are no alternatives to making proper biodiesel without using methanol and sodium or potassium hydroxide that I know of. Biodiesel chemically is methyl esters of tryglycerides produced by the process of transesterification of vegetable oil using alcohol (ethanol can be used but is a more difficult and expensive process) and some form of hydroxide.

I get most of my information from:
http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/...lay.php?fid=10
and plan to make a GL processor as per the design here:
http://www.graham-laming.com/bd/ecos...iagram_new.htm I still have not made a processor yet as I am still wating on an old hot water cylinder that I have been promised. I have however made 3l test batches in winemaking demejohns and 15l batches in 25l containers and have successfully run my A2 on more than 50% biodiesel / mineral diesel (my wife's Peugeot 307 Hdi runs ok on 50% homemade bio too).

I have, in the past, bought biodiesel from commercial sources but on testing the last batch that I bought it proved to be full of soap and only half processed, so beware. :eek:
The symptoms, in my A2, of a poorly made batch of biodiesel seem to be difficulty starting on a warm engine (don't ask me why), the last bad batch I used caused difficulty starting on a cold engine too. :mad:

I am confident that I can now make biodiesel of sifficient quality myself (not having to risk engine damage due to bad batches from other sources of unknown quality) to run my A2 on 100% biodiesel with no modifications necessary.:)
If you need any more information just let me know.

I could start a regular thread on proper homemade biodiesel for our A2s on the forum if you like. :cool:
 
You've been warned!

Be very careful when processing SVO/WVO yourself for use in modern PD engines like the A2 TDI.

It must meet RME German standard EN 14214 to avoid damage.

To quote from an SVO forum:

"1. Biodiesel Can cause injection pump damage in two ways a) residual particualnts, waxes, try-glycorides and catalyst can mechanically gaul the pump and destroy it over time b) excess water in fuel will boil out under friction inside injection pump, steam gaul the metal, and destroy the pump over time. Biodiesel supporters claim these problems can be avoided if the Biodiesel is processed proeprly and cleaned properly.

2. If an engine has excessive ring wear, biodiesel can leak into the oil pan and casues the engine oil to polymerize. Polymerization creates an impropper oiling condition which causes premature engine wear and ultimate failure. Biodieslers claim the risk of this can be minimized by frequent oil changes, but if you have this probelm it can only be cured by ring replacement.

3. Also I've read about problems with injection pump leakage. This is reported to be the result of people switching back and forth between ULSD and Biodiesel. The explination I was given is that sulfer in the ULSD causes pump seals to shrink. Biodiesel causes seals to swell. Shrink, swell, shrink, swell equals cracked seals and a leaking injector pump. "
 
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