Today I.....

Today I fitted new gas rams to the rear door of Spud.
Went to collect some wheels and lost the engine undertray somewhere on the journey!
A visit to A2Steve bekons!!
 
In the post today....Refurbed key from Russia (only one on eBay that matched the numbers on the original) and blue touch up paint. Hooked up the K commander and retrieved the skc, now just need the key cut and I will see if I can program a second key. Funny how having one key feels risky!
Found out I also need to look at the drivers side rear door micro switch as that doesnt illuminate the DIS. Spun the set of eBay wheels up on a balancer and thankfully all 4 are way better than the ones on the car. 2 rainsport3's arriving tomorrow. Not sure whether to paint he wheels silver again or anthracite.... real world problems eh? :)
 
Jellybean said:
Odd as I have a concert on which the on off vol knobpushes right in to switch off. Push again to switch on and it pops out. All works fine. Thought this was standard!!

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
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It is not standard, but by the number of faulty on/off/pushed depressed radio knobs out there it might well be the standard!!!:)

mjsbrabus said:
Odd as I have a concert on which the on off vol knobpushes right in to switch off. Push again to switch on and it pops out. All works fine. Thought this was standard!!

There seem to be both types advertised on eBay. Buttons on my old one are recessed as well - part no 8Z0035186A.
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If you are talking Concert 2 I take your word for what's on eBay, yes two types, broken and not broken.:rolleyes:

As I said yesterday if it works and you are happy what the hell. There is a very strong case as to 'why fix something that works',......

.....but if you like things right.

I feel I had better add to what I said yesterday about pulling the knob off to fix. I would only do the this if the Concert was stripped down (or it pulls off very easily in situ). The reason is you can get your fingers under the knob to pull and hold the base of the spindle with pin nosed pliers to reduce the risk of damaging the circuit board connection.

These are the bits you end up with....

Knob Parts.jpg


In the case of a knob that depresses too far the spring has come adrift you will find it loose at the bottom of the spindle not doing its job.

It's easy enough to figure out how to put it back together.

Its late and the full 'How To' will have to wait for a few weeks.

Andy
 
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Wow very nice I’ve tried everywhere to find the original rubber mats I’ve taken them out of our old a2 and put in the new one muddy shoes and boots no good on carpet ?..I worked in Scandinavia in early eighties you could get these tailored floor mats with 1” sides that slotted in to your footwell kept all the slush and muck out the car brilliant idea never seen them here...
 
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I worked in Scandinavia in early eighties you could get these tailored floor mats with 1” sides that slotted in to your footwell kept all the slush and muck out the car brilliant idea never seen them here...

Strangely the rubber mats that I bought from the Peugeot dealer for daughter's 108 are just like that!!!
 
Today I left my car in to have water pump and belt replaced to also get the news of a steering rack failure.. £266 plus labour...not a happy new year....
 
Swapped the buttons over from the replacement climate unit into the car. Much better! Seems daft trying to do it in situ, you have to push much harder on the buttons to remove them than the radio swap.
Had a new key cut, managed to code it so it starts but can't get the remote to work. However the VCDS is seeing the remote as the block number changes as I press the buttons... However I cannot seem to change anything with the version I have.
 
Vantagemech said:
Swapped the buttons over from the replacement climate unit into the car. Much better! Seems daft trying to do it in situ, you have to push much harder on the buttons to remove them than the radio swap.
Had a new key cut, managed to code it so it starts but can't get the remote to work. However the VCDS is seeing the remote as the block number changes as I press the buttons... However I cannot seem to change anything with the version I have.
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Have you got full VCDS or VCDS Lite? - Andy
 
Also managed (with the help of buddy Steve) changed the oil cooler pipe on Baby Boomer, so here's hoping that the running without water won't have caused permanent damage.
 
Vantagemech said:
Swapped the buttons over from the replacement climate unit into the car. Much better! Seems daft trying to do it in situ, you have to push much harder on the buttons to remove them than the radio swap.
Had a new key cut, managed to code it so it starts but can't get the remote to work. However the VCDS is seeing the remote as the block number changes as I press the buttons... However I cannot seem to change anything with the version I have.
Click to expand...

I've remembered a post from Steve Birchall, a forum stalwart with lots of key coding experience (now retired from the club), saying that the VCDS instructions for key coding are wrong. If it is of any help it is here. I think I remember a eureka post when he worked out the correct procedure. I will see if I can find it later.

Andy
 
Vantagemech said:
Swapped the buttons over from the replacement climate unit into the car. Much better! Seems daft trying to do it in situ, you have to push much harder on the buttons to remove them than the radio swap.
Had a new key cut, managed to code it so it starts but can't get the remote to work. However the VCDS is seeing the remote as the block number changes as I press the buttons... However I cannot seem to change anything with the version I have.
Click to expand...
I think I have found the eureka post, #6.

https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...l-key-programming-problems-help-please.26319/

Also what seems at a glance a guide.

https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...ional-keys-including-the-new-shape-key.27117/

Hope it helps.

Andy
 
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