Today I.....

I've been getting those for some years from my garage with the MOT. Looks like your brakes are pretty even Andy, especially across the back axle πŸ‘ Nothing needed to do there, I'd say.
 
Just went to collect my car after a full service including fuel filter change. Now they can't start it. This happened before. What a pain! I hope they don't knacker the battery or starter.

PS I've seen all the posts on various techniques to fix. They say they do 15 to 20 fuel filters a week. They are an Audi/VW/Skoda specialist. I think they should be aware of all the mitigation procedures by now or is our A2 a real pain in the proverbial for garages.
 
Just read the manual!!! ... on the climate unit. It is not well presented but all kinds of snippets of interesting information, e.g. I was never aware you can swap temperature display to℉ if you choose by pressing two buttons!!! (press the recycle button and hold it, then briefly press +)

Andy
 
Today I've changed the top coolant temp sensor, didn't know till today there's one on the bottom as well, it's been long needed. Took much more time than I thought, like always, even though I've been preparing :/
The bottom blue sensor was stuck, almost broke clip off, but came off eventually, rusty U clip off, then bottom hose as well. Coolant sprayed everywhere of course. I'd taped off electric bits before which helped a lot, also I'd disconnected battery negative.
20220808_135104_HDR.jpg

Then I'd removed the top coolant hose to reach the sensor, but to my surprise even more coolant came out, not sure why, reservoir was empty. Covered it with plastic bag to guide it towards the rest of the collected coolant.
Then pulled U clip off, out came the sensor. Easiest part to be fair. Bit more coolant of course.
20220808_141204_HDR.jpg
Looked kinda rusty, no surprise I haven't seen steady 90 since I've had the car for over 3 years, but I usually drive short distances so didn't really matter.
Shall I change the blue bottom dual temp switch as well? How do I know if that's failing?
I put all back together, made sure all clicks where they should, and temp sensor just sits lightly with new rubber seal and clip, then refilled coolant slowly but, now it was leaking of course. But much worse than for years before. Not good. So after checking and cleaning up, not finding real cause as all surrounding was wet, I've tried moving top short hose up and tightened it up again was my best guess, hoping the plastic L isn't actually cracked.
Then reconnected the - terminal, double checked all bits back in place, parked car up, then I went for a swim in the sea to cool down, as it took me like 3 hours, with things like fishing out dropped bolts and filtering used coolant back in the bottle, as bits fell in it.
I hope the dripping has stopped now, or tomorrow morning I'll have an empty reservoir and a massive puddle around the car :/

Also as an extra I've checked the earthing points before all that, behind bottom of A pillars and under the reservoir, all was solid, but another surprise a big chunk was missing from the cover...never noticed that, looks old damage too. Not sure how I'd missed it before.
Screenshot_2022-08-08-21-05-19.png

I've tapped it up, I'll check on it later.

So I didn't have time, and patience, to change the transmission oil and docompression test, but I'll try to get them done this week :/
 
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Today I've changed the top coolant temp sensor, didn't know till today there's one on the bottom as well, it's been long needed. Took much more time than I thought, like always, even though I've been preparing :/
The bottom blue sensor was stuck, almost broke clip off, but came off eventually, rusty U clip off, then bottom hose as well. Coolant sprayed everywhere of course. I'd taped off electric bits before which helped a lot, also I'd disconnected battery negative.
View attachment 97800
Then I'd removed the top coolant hose to reach the sensor, but to my surprise even more coolant came out, not sure why, reservoir was empty. Covered it with plastic bag to guide it towards the rest of the collected coolant.
Then pulled U clip off, out came the sensor. Easiest part to be fair. Bit more coolant of course.
View attachment 97801Looked kinda rusty, no surprise I haven't seen steady 90 since I've had the car for over 3 years, but I usually drive short distances so didn't really matter.
Shall I change the blue bottom dual temp switch as well? How do I know if that's failing?
I put all back together, made sure all clicks where they should, and temp sensor just sits lightly with new rubber seal and clip, then refilled coolant slowly but, now it was leaking of course. But much worse than for years before. Not good. So after checking and cleaning up, not finding real cause as all surrounding was wet, I've tried moving top short hose up and tightened it up again was my best guess, hoping the plastic L isn't actually cracked.
Then reconnected the - terminal, double checked all bits back in place, parked car up, then I went for a swim in the sea to cool down, as it took me like 3 hours, with things like fishing out dropped bolts and filtering used coolant back in the bottle, as bits fell in it.
I hope the dripping has stopped now, or tomorrow morning I'll have an empty reservoir and a massive puddle around the car :/

Also as an extra I've checked the earthing points before all that, behind bottom of A pillars and under the reservoir, all was solid, but another surprise a big chunk was missing from the cover...never noticed that, looks old damage too. Not sure how I'd missed it before. View attachment 97802
I've tapped it up, I'll check on it later.

So I didn't have time, and patience, to change the transmission oil and docompression test, but I'll try to get them done this week :/
That lower one is the radiator fan switch if I remember correctly.
 
Today I've changed the top coolant temp sensor, didn't know till today there's one on the bottom as well, it's been long needed. Took much more time than I thought, like always, even though I've been preparing :/
The bottom blue sensor was stuck, almost broke clip off, but came off eventually, rusty U clip off, then bottom hose as well. Coolant sprayed everywhere of course. I'd taped off electric bits before which helped a lot, also I'd disconnected battery negative.
View attachment 97800
Then I'd removed the top coolant hose to reach the sensor, but to my surprise even more coolant came out, not sure why, reservoir was empty. Covered it with plastic bag to guide it towards the rest of the collected coolant.
Then pulled U clip off, out came the sensor. Easiest part to be fair. Bit more coolant of course.
View attachment 97801Looked kinda rusty, no surprise I haven't seen steady 90 since I've had the car for over 3 years, but I usually drive short distances so didn't really matter.
Shall I change the blue bottom dual temp switch as well? How do I know if that's failing?
I put all back together, made sure all clicks where they should, and temp sensor just sits lightly with new rubber seal and clip, then refilled coolant slowly but, now it was leaking of course. But much worse than for years before. Not good. So after checking and cleaning up, not finding real cause as all surrounding was wet, I've tried moving top short hose up and tightened it up again was my best guess, hoping the plastic L isn't actually cracked.
Then reconnected the - terminal, double checked all bits back in place, parked car up, then I went for a swim in the sea to cool down, as it took me like 3 hours, with things like fishing out dropped bolts and filtering used coolant back in the bottle, as bits fell in it.
I hope the dripping has stopped now, or tomorrow morning I'll have an empty reservoir and a massive puddle around the car :/

Also as an extra I've checked the earthing points before all that, behind bottom of A pillars and under the reservoir, all was solid, but another surprise a big chunk was missing from the cover...never noticed that, looks old damage too. Not sure how I'd missed it before. View attachment 97802
I've tapped it up, I'll check on it later.

So I didn't have time, and patience, to change the transmission oil and docompression test, but I'll try to get them done this week :/
Hi Sylvester,
It looks like the gearbox counter weight has chafed through the insulation or a 4” grinder has made contact !
 
@Sylvester as Keith has said that lead has been damaged probably by incorrect routing or engine / gearbox mounts issue allowing the selector tower counter balance to rub it. If you look closely you can see the wire has corroded there and no doubt this has spread lower down the cable. Best to replace the cable and ensure that it is routed correctly. Fortunately ( so far ) it is an earth lead, if that had been the main positive lead there could have been carnage and even possibly an electrical fire.

The dual thermo switch for the radiator lets the radiator fan run a two speeds as the car overheats.
 
Just went to collect my car after a full service including fuel filter change. Now they can't start it. This happened before. What a pain! I hope they don't knacker the battery or starter.

PS I've seen all the posts on various techniques to fix. They say they do 15 to 20 fuel filters a week. They are an Audi/VW/Skoda specialist. I think they should be aware of all the mitigation procedures by now or is our A2 a real pain in the proverbial for garages.
I think the problem is there are a few oddities with the A2, despite it sharing many parts from other VAG cars of the era. In this case the lack of a pick-up pump in the fuel tank makes priming the fuel system a pain, especially if you haven't clamped the fuel pipes when changing the filter.
 
That lower one is the radiator fan switch if I remember correctly.
Yup it does indeed run the fan.

Much to my amusement and annoyance a mechanic that i first took the car to when I bought the car (to get some immediate work done on it) fitted the green sensor to where the blue one should have went and I wasn't aware until I changed it two years later. Guy cost me 4 figures due to his incompetence (broke both sills from jacking in wrong place, stole kit from me and didnt fit it).

In case anyone wonders if you fit the green sensor where the blue one should go the fan runs all the time - I didn't change it earlier as a) I wasn't aware of the mistake and b) I wasn't always aware the fan was running all the time....
 
'Tis true to say, great care is needed when selecting a person to work on these "little" treasures. That's why the last one bought by me was a " little shop of horrors". PO had not serviced it for ten years. Neglect is, I think, a great deal better than the "beastly bodge"

Battersea has been with me for nearly three years and with the help of this fabulous forum, B&F Autos in West Hounslow and one or two others is now a joy to own.

Black SE AUA Swing grey sports seats, sports steering wheel, big dash, all electric windows and no non original paint. (I believe) Hard touch buttons all round and decent wish bones.
 
@kp115 @audifan Yes you're both right, to be honest I've had no idea what the counter balancer meant, until I've seen it moving and in 2nd gear it can touch the earth cable 😦
I've also noticed, The counter balancer bolt in the middle is kind of loose, I can turn it with my fingers. Is that normal, or it'd be full tight? Thanks
Screenshot_2022-08-09-10-42-23.png
 
@kp115 @audifan Yes you're both right, to be honest I've had no idea what the counter balancer meant, until I've seen it moving and in 2nd gear it can touch the earth cable
I've also noticed, The counter balancer bolt in the middle is kind of loose, I can turn it with my fingers. Is that normal, or it'd be full tight? Thanks
View attachment 97805

Should be tight


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Okay I've tightened it up, cheers depronman.
I've also moved the earthing out the way, so should be okay, but I'll check it later.

Unfortunately looks like the coolant leaking didn't stop. Seems it's coming from the bottom of this plastic part, so I can't even see it, that connects to the coolant hose, part number 032 121 18B.
Looks like an odd connector, only few platistic bumps hold it, also not sure how to even take off without braking it.
Screenshot_2022-08-09-12-45-32.png
 
Hi Steve,
Not suggesting that this is a "lifesaver" in the ongoing headliner problem, however it has worked for me (1 week). Prit stick, the well known stationary adhesive. Gently ease down the offending fabric and remove as much of the orange crud from the "biscuit" as possible. Apply Prit stick to "biscuit" generously, leave for a minute or so and gently smooth the cloth back.

My leading edge has been fine for about a week. Good luck!
 
...broke down-ish. Massive pop followed by tractor gurgling noise whilst cruising at 75mph. I suspect the turbo hose, seeing as it was covered in oil and already had a patch on it!!
 
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