Today I.....
- Thread starter sco
- Start date
Proghound
Admin Team
Indeed
But I think it might still be an idea to invest some of the proceeds of my sale thread in a Windows laptop, a cable and VCDS Lite.
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
I know I can think of at least one respected member who’ll disagree, but if I’m ever tempted by a FSI then my first move will be coming to you @A2Steve for a Proboost, regardless of the car’s mileage or behaviour at the time.This morning I've had a bonding session with my Cobalt FSI.
While so different from the TDI's I'm used to, I really appreciate the smoothness of the engine and gearchange, and I'm enjoying the slightly strange feeling like I'm in a larger car than the TDI - when you're not just pootling along, quite soon you're going faster than you thought you were trying for, but without it having felt like you were really on the way there.
I've more than quadrupled the total distance I've driven her, and had a good play with the right-hand side of the rev counter (nnniiiiiiiiiiccccee). She obviously likes me too as I was rewarded with a smiling yellow EML a short while later
However, 10 minutes after getting back home and watching @timmus' extremely useful video the issue was sorted by fitting the ProBoost ECU I grabbed when the chance came up recently. If anything, she's now even smoother under 3k revs, the very slight hesitation/non-linear power delivery is gone, but with no loss of pull. At some point it would be interesting to scan the original ECU to find out what the fault was.
Since it's not going to stop raining after this afternoon, I'll never make it to the Silverstone meal still looking clean, so I'm just going to keep on using her for now while the traffic's lighter with the Easter holidays. Looking forward to getting her back off the drive already
Audrey has been so damn reliable that I couldn’t put up with even the risk of ongoing running issues suddenly appearing, the technology is just not reliable enough over the long term for me.
Glad you’re enjoying it!
New clean MOT successfully achieved. Drivers side inner CV boot replaced, both ball joint boot covers replaced, both side handbrake cables replaced, cleaned and freed rear brakes. Delighted. Luckily I had the hand brake cables as I was given them when I bought drums and shoes from a very kind chap on Gumtree last year, 2 the same length and they fitted.
Luckily I had the hand brake cables as I was given them when I bought drums and shoes from a very kind chap on Gumtree last year, 2 the same length and they fitted.
PlasticMac
Member
Well, who can that "well respected member" possibly be?
Mac.
roc-a-rhol
A2OC Donor
today i changed the shocks, springs and top mounts.
what a pig of a job that is. not complicated - just fiddly as helll.
trying to get to the top mount bolts on the drivers side is like retrieving keys from a bag of ferrets! im cut and scratched to pieces!
the dust cover took 10mins alone to remove and looks a bit sorry for itself ( had to attack it with a screwdriver as it had fused itself) so if anyone has one spare ill take it off your hands.
top mount looked knackered and the bearings were shot - saw that the spring had snapped too so a timely repair.
3.5hrs for the drivers side, 1.5 for the passenger.
meyle top mount and bearing and bilstein shocks should last a while because im not doing that again in a hurry!
drew
what a pig of a job that is. not complicated - just fiddly as helll.
trying to get to the top mount bolts on the drivers side is like retrieving keys from a bag of ferrets! im cut and scratched to pieces!
the dust cover took 10mins alone to remove and looks a bit sorry for itself ( had to attack it with a screwdriver as it had fused itself) so if anyone has one spare ill take it off your hands.
top mount looked knackered and the bearings were shot - saw that the spring had snapped too so a timely repair.
3.5hrs for the drivers side, 1.5 for the passenger.
meyle top mount and bearing and bilstein shocks should last a while because im not doing that again in a hurry!
drew
Attachments
Hi Drew,
I have the parts and it's on my To Do list. Thanks for the encouraging write up
roc-a-rhol
A2OC Donor
it certainly helps if you have smaller, longer hands! my dad and his little pig fingers couldn't get anywhere near the boltsHi Drew,
I have the parts and it's on my To Do list. Thanks for the encouraging write up
Drivers side really is a pig, been there done that and had the same war wounds as you
Great job done though, well done!
Today I added an earth cable to the windscreen wiper and highly recommend it to everyone with an A2 that hasn't got one.
10 minutes, a 450mm earth cable and a washer and the jobs a good un!
Wiper now sweeps faster than it did before so if yours is a bit slow this should help.
My preferred route was to use the body under the bracket and bolt of the brake fluid reservoir which doesn't need a washer as it's already there and the cable ticks up nicely almost out of sight and out of the way
10 minutes, a 450mm earth cable and a washer and the jobs a good un!
Wiper now sweeps faster than it did before so if yours is a bit slow this should help.
My preferred route was to use the body under the bracket and bolt of the brake fluid reservoir which doesn't need a washer as it's already there and the cable ticks up nicely almost out of sight and out of the way
Attachments
audifan
A2OC Donor
Yes the earth on the wiper has "helped" but has not solved the cause of the problem.
Water gets onto the wiper motor and then onto and into the wiring plus. This water then builds up inside the wiring plug and the earth pins being the lowest corrode and the earth gets worse until it fails. The water is still present in the plug and now starts to corrode the power feeds for the wiper, so you may have a new earth but not much use when the power fails.
Cure the water getting into the wiring plug by making sure the scuttle grommet for the wiper spindles is not worn oval and letting the water in ( tell tale rusty brown marks on the scuttle drain pipe, air inlet pipe and fuel pipes. Remove the wiper motor assembly and unplug the wiring, now carefully clean all the contacts to remove all traces of corrosion and water. Smear a little dielectric grease around the outside of the plug as it enters the socket and also on exposed wire as this will prevent water getting into the wiring plug.
Water gets onto the wiper motor and then onto and into the wiring plus. This water then builds up inside the wiring plug and the earth pins being the lowest corrode and the earth gets worse until it fails. The water is still present in the plug and now starts to corrode the power feeds for the wiper, so you may have a new earth but not much use when the power fails.
Cure the water getting into the wiring plug by making sure the scuttle grommet for the wiper spindles is not worn oval and letting the water in ( tell tale rusty brown marks on the scuttle drain pipe, air inlet pipe and fuel pipes. Remove the wiper motor assembly and unplug the wiring, now carefully clean all the contacts to remove all traces of corrosion and water. Smear a little dielectric grease around the outside of the plug as it enters the socket and also on exposed wire as this will prevent water getting into the wiring plug.
Sylvester
Member
Great info, any chance for a picture showing that part? Thanks
Phil_B
Member
Good Morning. Today I drove my A2 to work for the first time after making it legal yesterday. Took it out for a fun drive yesterday evening. It drives lovely, but does feel weird not being in a Rover 800 for the first time in 20 years!!!!
Its had new pads all round, new oil and a decent check over. OSR calliper was very stiff. Hopefgully that's free now.
No EML issues.
However, my A/C heater controls now only pump out hot air! Need to look at that, the AC was working when I bought it.
Officially an A2 owner and driver now
Its had new pads all round, new oil and a decent check over. OSR calliper was very stiff. Hopefgully that's free now.
No EML issues.
However, my A/C heater controls now only pump out hot air! Need to look at that, the AC was working when I bought it.
Officially an A2 owner and driver now
PlasticMac
Member
The lack of temperature control is probably down to the control flap in the HVAC. It's controlled by a motor, to mix hot and cold air, to give the temperature you set. Googlev68, prefixed by a2oc.Good Morning. Today I drove my A2 to work for the first time after making it legal yesterday. Took it out for a fun drive yesterday evening. It drives lovely, but does feel weird not being in a Rover 800 for the first time in 20 years!!!!
Its had new pads all round, new oil and a decent check over. OSR calliper was very stiff. Hopefgully that's free now.
No EML issues.
However, my A/C heater controls now only pump out hot air! Need to look at that, the AC was working when I bought it.
Officially an A2 owner and driver now
You'll not take long to get used to the A2.
Mac.
AndyP
Member
Yesterday I .... started drying out my little blue friend ...
On Friday the engine stalled when trickling through some flood water, I didn't want to risk hydrolock and so had to abandon it. Returned with a friend to tow it back a couple of hours later and the flood was too deep for the Landrover! It was now above the front numberplate on the A2. I looked inside and the water was up to the bottom of the seats :-(
So yesterday morning the flood had subsided enough to tow it back and the water level in the car had also dropped to below floor level. With a monumental effort we managed to push it onto my drive and into the garage - the sloshing noises from inside were horrible.
The under floor compartments were full, the boot was full, the space in front of the rear seats was a pond. In total I removed about 20 buckets (80 - 100 gallons) of dirty river/field water. The high water mark appears to be level with the centre console although the rear ashtray was still dry. I still need to get all the seats, trim and carpets out but space is a bit tight in the garage and removing the seats is awkward. The ECU etc have been sprayed with WD40 but all the connections look corroded already and water is still appearing in the bottom of those compartments.
I have removed the glow plugs and there doesn't appear to be water in the cylinders, but right now I can't find my boroscope to check.
I have a concern that this could be the end of the road at just under 205,000 miles ... And what is worse I'll need to buy another car and I have no idea what to look for (other than another A2).
On Friday the engine stalled when trickling through some flood water, I didn't want to risk hydrolock and so had to abandon it. Returned with a friend to tow it back a couple of hours later and the flood was too deep for the Landrover! It was now above the front numberplate on the A2. I looked inside and the water was up to the bottom of the seats :-(
So yesterday morning the flood had subsided enough to tow it back and the water level in the car had also dropped to below floor level. With a monumental effort we managed to push it onto my drive and into the garage - the sloshing noises from inside were horrible.
The under floor compartments were full, the boot was full, the space in front of the rear seats was a pond. In total I removed about 20 buckets (80 - 100 gallons) of dirty river/field water. The high water mark appears to be level with the centre console although the rear ashtray was still dry. I still need to get all the seats, trim and carpets out but space is a bit tight in the garage and removing the seats is awkward. The ECU etc have been sprayed with WD40 but all the connections look corroded already and water is still appearing in the bottom of those compartments.
I have removed the glow plugs and there doesn't appear to be water in the cylinders, but right now I can't find my boroscope to check.
I have a concern that this could be the end of the road at just under 205,000 miles ... And what is worse I'll need to buy another car and I have no idea what to look for (other than another A2).
