Today I.....

I was lucky that my daughter was on hand, but the old struts may have been stronger than I thought as it didn't drop much.
The alternative is a broom handle, or similar, and the clips pop off with just a flat blade screwdriver. Have a cloth and some WD40 handy to wipe over the ball socket that they clip onto.
Hi i was talking about the OSS removal :)
 
Today, I got my A2 back on the road, after a bit of faf. Coulsdon Audi could only order the Crank bolt in. On the way there, I I thought of looking up other Audi dealers. There is an Audi Approved place near the Drift Bridge Garage in Epsom that had it in stock. Not so lucky with the pipe though....
Audi only sell the complete return pipe. At £89.00!!! Queue a visit to Halfords for an 8mm Y piece. :)

I also FINALLYT fitted the Stainless footrest that came with the car. And the inserts. The envelope they were in had a 2020 date post mark. I cant make out the delivery address though. Obviously a forum member owned my car at some point in the past.

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I also cleaned all the switches and door trims. Gone is a few years of grime from the door switches. Aldi Kitchen cleaner FTW. SO much better than Mr Muscle. Leavers NO residue.
 
I'm planning on doing the same at some point, 2 man job right?
Grateful if you can give any tips
Yes there are lots of bolts (12) and 4 nuts. There are also 2 torx bolts that can only be accessed from the outside with the front panel raised and half way open. They are difficult to get at and needs a 1/4 t20 socket which I held in mole grips to undo.
 
Yes there are lots of bolts (12) and 4 nuts. There are also 2 torx bolts that can only be accessed from the outside with the front panel raised and half way open. They are difficult to get at and needs a 1/4 t20 socket which I held in mole grips to undo.
The OSS on mine does not really open it should be able to tilt but then it starts to open more on one side. I'm hoping i can use the manual winder to access the bolts from the top? I do recall trying to manually do this before was pretty tight to move the glass back.
 
The OSS on mine does not really open it should be able to tilt but then it starts to open more on one side. I'm hoping i can use the manual winder to access the bolts from the top? I do recall trying to manually do this before was pretty tight to move the glass back.
Give it a helping hand from inside as you open it!
 
I have just made it home after a bit of an ordeal…

The FSI ruptured a coolant line (not the death pipe) on the M49 and dumped all its coolant (for the second time this month🙄) so after waiting several hours trying to get recovery with non existent 3G signal, I gave up waiting and Jerry rigged it myself on the hard shoulder enough to get home (the road was deserted, I know you’re not supposed to do anything yourself on the hard shoulder, but cars were few and far between, so I just did it in between)

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I had coolant in the boot, as I’ve had some other coolant issues with the FSI recently, so was able to top up and make it the 98 miles home with stops every now and again to check, but no more top ups were required and no overheating was encountered.

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This was after the bodge, but theres still a gentle plume of steam from the coolant slowly leaking out and the engine bay drying out 😂

Over the whole 450 mile round trip I even got 62.4 mpg, which is a new personal best in the FSI, despite all the farting around on my way home.

Last week I replaced the cracked EGR pipe and unblanked the EGR valve (curtesy of a previous owner) which means that the ECU will now run in stratified charge mode, and what a marked difference that makes to economy!
 
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Did some maintenance including things planned from some time:

1. “Cured” sump plug thread - it was hard to undo the plug, now it goes by hand until the end :)
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2. Replaced both rear plate lamps - this was hard as both screw broke … But I hope that those will last. Used stainless screws with torx head.
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Fitted a set of pristine black speaker grilles to the 1.2tdi, the originals were shot. Also swapped out the boot lock that bolts to the tailgate as it didn't lock. Thats now working. Also had a spare passenger side door seal rubber that attaches to the door opening. This is perfect for a LHD car as it's virtually new. The original was really ragged where people drag their shoes across it. Finally repaired a soul black glovebox lid on my sons TDi Dolphin Grey using bits from a cosmetically ruined Twist lid. Happy bunny using up my spares stock to make small cosmetic differences.
 
Today I replaced the front brake discs and pads on my recently purchased 1 owner, 31,000 mile TDI 75, along with upgraded Meyle HD drop links which are the only non-original part I actually choose to fit as they are such good quality and actually far superior to the original's.

I also fitted new number plates ready for it's MOT later this week, of which it has never failed one and has kept the same MOT expiry date since it's first one at three years old, so no pressure!

I must say working on this car makes me feel like some kind of archaeologist as everything on the car is completely original and as it left the factory, other than the tyres.

For anyone interested the original front brake pads that I replaced were made by Pagid while also wearing the VAG branding 👍
 

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Today I replaced the front brake discs and pads on my recently purchased 1 owner, 31,000 mile TDI 75, along with upgraded Meyle HD drop links which are the only non-original part I actually choose to fit as they are such good quality and actually far superior to the original's.

I also fitted new number plates ready for it's MOT later this week, of which it has never failed one and has kept the same MOT expiry date since it's first one at three years old, so no pressure!

I must say working on this car makes me feel like some kind of archaeologist as everything on the car is completely original and as it left the factory, other than the tyres.

For anyone interested the original front brake pads that I replaced were made by Pagid while also wearing the VAG branding 👍
1 owner 31k miles???!!! Wow where did you see that for sale?! That's lowest milage I've heard of recently.
 
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other than the tyres
On my BBY acquired in April at 44,000 miles one of the rear tyres was original Pirelli from new. :-(
First thing I did prior to driving anywhere was fit a set of Continental UltraContact 185 / 50 16.
It now has a set of Bilstein B6 (still on original springs) fitted by WOM and I am very happy with the handling and ride quality.
 
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my recently purchased 1 owner, 31,000 mile TDI 75,
Wow, beats my own 1 owner (me) (ex dealer), 96,000 mile TDI 75. Did you replace the stone guards? I regret not changing mine when the disk were done at 50K. They certainly need replacing now. I had to patch them them with tin plate and epoxy for the MOT! I've got the new ones but wondering whether to go the whole hog and replace the pads, disks, bearings and drive shafts which are corroded.
 
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Today I replaced the front brake discs and pads on my recently purchased 1 owner, 31,000 mile TDI 75, along with upgraded Meyle HD drop links which are the only non-original part I actually choose to fit as they are such good quality and actually far superior to the original's.

I also fitted new number plates ready for it's MOT later this week, of which it has never failed one and has kept the same MOT expiry date since it's first one at three years old, so no pressure!

I must say working on this car makes me feel like some kind of archaeologist as everything on the car is completely original and as it left the factory, other than the tyres.

For anyone interested the original front brake pads that I replaced were made by Pagid while also wearing the VAG branding 👍

Wow so a 2-3 year old car in mileage terms. What an interesting proposition. Upgrade to your preferred spec and you almost have the perfect vehicle to see you out until Diesel is totally banned on the roads!

Interesting that the OE brake pad manufacturer was Pagid.
 
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Wow, beats my own 1 owner (me) (ex dealer), 96,000 mile TDI 75. Did you replace the stone guards? I regret not changing mine when the disk were done at 50K. They certainly need replacing now. I had to patch them them with tin plate and epoxy for the MOT! I've got the new ones but wondering whether to go the whole hog and replace the pads, disks, bearings and drive shafts which are corroded.
No I didn't replace the stone guards as they were still in really good condition but I did spend a good few hours removing any surface corrosion from anywhere that i could find.
I lifted up the front of the car first on ramps to get underneath, then did the same on the rear whilst using a small rounded hammer, blunt chisel (with the edges rounded off/softened) before wire brushing with a variety of different sized/coarseness wire brushes including a rotary one in my drill which worked well. I then jacked up and removed each wheel one at a time and did the same removing any surface rust I could find.
It was a lot of work though and dirty work at that but worth it.
I also cleaned up all the nuts and bolts and treated everything with copious amounts of penetrating fluid to ease removal when it's necessary to do so.

It is inevitable with the age of the cars now that components underneath will get somewhat rusty regardless of mileage or how well they have been looked after but the majority of time things can look a lot worse than they actually are and mostly is just surface rust that can be removed with the right tools and effort.

I plan on treating everything properly bit by bit and getting everything back to as good/new as possible when time allows but having it right for the MOT was my immediate priority.

It is lovely having such a low mileage example though as it does drive like a brand new car and feels really tight. It has been serviced annually regardless of mileage and hence the service book is now completely full and even with the very low mileage (which I'm not generally a major fan of) it was always run up to temperature when used as the shortest journeys were to the local Waitrose which was 20 or so miles away so not a short distance low mile town car which I would never buy👍
 
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Wow so a 2-3 year old car in mileage terms. What an interesting proposition. Upgrade to your preferred spec and you almost have the perfect vehicle to see you out until Diesel is totally banned on the roads!

Interesting that the OE brake pad manufacturer was Pagid.
Yes it's difficult to know exactly what to do tbh as with the provenance and low mileage I feel I should keep everything completely standard as it left the factory.

It's still got absolutely everything it came with from new, even the original invoice and spec sheet and every invoice and receipt too.

I've never been one for spec really but there are always certain things that you like and I was fortunate when I went to see it that it had the electric lumbar support seats which I wasn't aware of and really like, and also has the double din Symphony sound system which has always been my favourite in an A2 having had all of the different varieties in previous A2's and to my ears sounds the best so that's good too.

The air con is like ice and the inside pretty much like new as it's only really had the one occupant the majority of the time and the boot and rear seats looks like they've never been used👍
 
I plan on treating everything properly bit by bit and getting everything back to as good/new as possible when time allows but having it right for the MOT was my immediate priority
Excellent find. For some years I've used Kurust regularly. Goes on as a runny white liquid so it runs into the crevices. It can be liberally sprayed with a cleaning bottle with nozzle. Dries black. A really quick job. Just need to cover the drive with sheets of cardboard otherwise it gets black stains.
 
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