Today I.....

Jellybean said:
Try this.

Boot Lid Panel Removal

Hi All. I am in the middle of removing the exterior rear boot lid panel to replace the rear number plate lights and I have got as far as breaking the old light lens screws off in the housings. They were WELL rusted. Fortunately I have already got hold of some new light housings and lenses (just...
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Its years since I changed one, and cannot remember how to do it!

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Thanks… sounds a bit scary!
 
This is basic process. You can get the idea from this video. No harm to translate the subtitles. He is splitting tailgate to replace faulty number plate light but same procedure.

 
Malcyb said:
I think that the problem will be that the panel where the plate sits is recessed, so it’s not possible to get any long blade into the side without rubbing against the panel and making an awful mess of it, or the wedge will dig into the panel behind the plate and start to damage it there. I think what you’re suggesting might work only if it were a completely flat surface so you can apply force completely parallel to the panel behind it.
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If you were to put several layers of masking tape around the plate then it should be fine and as Dave says try heating it up a bit
 
ICowie said:
If you were to put several layers of masking tape around the plate then it should be fine and as Dave says try heating it up a bit
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Ok… maybe a combination of both approaches might give me better results. Hopefully tomorrow’s job will be fitting my new sports seats but if that goes really well then I can give this a go
 
Needles73 said:
This is basic process. You can get the idea from this video. No harm to translate the subtitles. He is splitting tailgate to replace faulty number plate light but same procedure.

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Thanks… picture tells 1000 words, but it still doesn’t look like a job for the faint-hearted.
 
Malcyb said:
Thanks… picture tells 1000 words, but it still doesn’t look like a job for the faint-hearted.
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I removed mine recently. Went straight forward enough.
 

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If heat won't work you could try using a freezing spray on the area where the adhesive and plate meet once you have gently wedged one of the ends up a little bit and then apply some leverage right at the point of contact between plate and adhesive.
 
Malcyb said:
Yesterday I fitted my new number plates, into my A2OC surrounds. The surrounds really lift the car, and they’re excellent quality, German made (Helmut Seitz), lots of holes to fit your screws wherever you want and the number plates clip in really neatly. Thank you @FinallyFiona, and to anyone who’s not got them yet, get your order in now!
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Unfortunately, I ended up making an awful bodge job of the rear plate. The old plate was glued in place with the strongest glue known to mankind and no amount of levering with a screwdriver or chisel would shift it (was worrying about damaging the bodywork) and heating it up didn’t do much to soften the adhesive either. So I ended up mounting the surround over the old plate. It looks ok straight on but unfortunately the edge of the old plate shows at other angles 😕. If anyone has any bright ideas how to remove the old plate I’d be curious to hear!
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Try nylon fishing line, like a cheese cutter, and "saw" the nylon line through the adhesive.
Mac.
 
Fresh MOT today with no advisories, chuffed 😀

A few bits on the to-to list, but nothing too major. New check-strap courtesy @depronman ready to go on. On lookout for new door card for drivers door, and a bit of water near battery to investigate (?!?).

Sits a little high at front after new cast (previously pressed I think) wishbones- not sure what thats about?... to figure out.
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Collected Dads 1.2 from WOM with my mother. On the way home, in protest over not being driven for a month I’d wager, the windscreen wipers decided they no longer wanted to work. Fortunately it was a clear day so on returning home I got down to diagnosing the issue.

Using the trusty old jump lead method it was possible to establish the cause was a failed earth strap. I’ll get another one tomorrow and we should be good to go 😊
 
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Today I continued to over-capitalise on little Oskar.
I bought some leather/alcantara platinum sports seats from @Fallan a few weeks ago. They needed some refurbishment (as was clear in the photos before they were delivered).

I did not know what that would cost, and it is a lot! I did get them refurbed completely, including the leather stiching and bolster foam etc etc etc. I also specified genuine Alcantara (code 2942). The guy said it was a pain of a job, and had to charge me more, but I am sure that is true.

Before and after shots are here, and there is a real difference. The fixing of all the foam and bolsters etc has made the ride height much higher. I do think the seats go saggy after 20 odd years, and these are really firm and different.

Was it worth it? Likely not, but buying another set would be cheaper, but perhaps not a lot better.

Add that to the headlining bill, and it gets to silly money, but with the roof insulation, a much quieter life!

I also had heating pads installed, so the next job is to wire them up. Needed that last week!
 

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Oskar said:
Today I continued to over-capitalise on little Oskar.
I bought some leather/alcantara platinum sports seats from @Fallan a few weeks ago. They needed some refurbishment (as was clear in the photos before they were delivered).

I did not know what that would cost, and it is a lot! I did get them refurbed completely, including the leather stiching and bolster foam etc etc etc. I also specified genuine Alcantara (code 2942). The guy said it was a pain of a job, and had to charge me more, but I am sure that is true.

Before and after shots are here, and there is a real difference. The fixing of all the foam and bolsters etc has made the ride height much higher. I do think the seats go saggy after 20 odd years, and these are really firm and different.

Was it worth it? Likely not, but buying another set would be cheaper, but perhaps not a lot better.

Add that to the headlining bill, and it gets to silly money, but with the roof insulation, a much quieter life!

I also had heating pads installed, so the next job is to wire them up. Needed that last week!
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They do look good as new though. Worn seats let the whole car down, yours lift it up!
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
Are you sure the two official fixing screws are not in there somewhere?
Mac
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It’s possible there’s screw holes behind the plate but I won’t know until I get it off. It’s not the original plate, but a rather faded one with the logo of a well-known London car supermarket, doesn’t exactly give the car a lift… unfortunately I ran out of time today so didn’t get a chance to have another go with all the helpful suggestions I’ve had. Maybe tomorrow.
 
Malcyb said:
It’s possible there’s screw holes behind the plate but I won’t know until I get it off. It’s not the original plate, but a rather faded one with the logo of a well-known London car supermarket, doesn’t exactly give the car a lift… unfortunately I ran out of time today so didn’t get a chance to have another go with all the helpful suggestions I’ve had. Maybe tomorrow.
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There definitely are two rivnut type threaded inserts, my number plate frame is held on with them, plus a small double sided tape patch at the corners.
Mac.
 
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