Trim removal for dash removal

humps

humps

A2OC Donor
I'm in the process of taking out my dash to replace the well hidden evaporative temp sender G263. Can the experienced guys tell me if I really need to (according to ElsaWin) remove the upper A-pillar trim and the trim around the front quarterlight? Reason being the 3 clips of the upper A trim seem to be very very tight and I fear the plastic section will break before the metal clip comes off.

If anyone needs to do it for whatever reason, I find it is best to spread the work over the week. You can still drive the car without all the trims, until the steering wheel/speedo has to come off on the critical day of the removal. So far, I have done the glove box, stereo/CC/coin tray at center console, driver side storage compartment, instrument hood.

Oh and that trigger for the glovebox light, I can't believe how easily it was broken ...
 
humps said:
I'm in the process of taking out my dash to replace the well hidden evaporative temp sender G263. Can the experienced guys tell me if I really need to (according to ElsaWin) remove the upper A-pillar trim and the trim around the front quarterlight? Reason being the 3 clips of the upper A trim seem to be very very tight and I fear the plastic section will break before the metal clip comes off.

If anyone needs to do it for whatever reason, I find it is best to spread the work over the week. You can still drive the car without all the trims, until the steering wheel/speedo has to come off on the critical day of the removal. So far, I have done the glove box, stereo/CC/coin tray at center console, driver side storage compartment, instrument hood.

Oh and that trigger for the glovebox light, I can't believe how easily it was broken ...
Click to expand...

Nope - there's no need to remove any trim above the dashboard, so that means A pillar trims and front quarter trims.

Cheers,

Mike
 
Hi Humps
I followed the manual and removed the upper A trims but agree with Mike that it's not really necessary. One thing to watch when you eventually remove the steering wheel is the steering angle sensor box. With all the crawling around in the car I managed to turn mine through 360 deg without knowing. When everything was back together I got an ABS warning light and an 'out of range' fault code and it took a while to realise what was wrong. Tape the sensor up like the manual says so it can't move.

Cheers Spike
 
There's loads of things to watch out for when removing the dash, steering angle sensor is one as Spike rightly points out, the routing og the sun sensor is another (tie a piece of string to the connector for easier routing), lube the 3 rubber sleeves under the windscreen to make refitting easier too. Also, take care removing the central vents, as the wiring to the hazard button is very short and if you just tug, it can break the switch, same goes for the ashtray light.

Put a cloth over the sides of the trim by the gearstick to avoid rubbing off the finish and above all, store all the screws in a logical way as you remove them.

With practise, you can remove a full dash in a little over an hour and refit it in about 90 mins - taking care to make sure it is aligned with the trim at the bottom of the front quarter lights, it should be flush.

Cheers,

Mike
 
I thought you had to block off the climate tubes to do this?

pleeeaaase don't tell me it's easy as I'll end up pulling it out :)

Bret
 
Hi Bret

No need to break into the refrigerant circuit - The G263 sensor only measures air temperature after the evaporator and is a push fit into the the plastic air distribution box behind the dash.
Even with the dash removed it is a veryyyyy difficult to get at (he said lying through his teeth)

Cheers Spike
 
thanks guys, I figured out the rest this afternoon the hard way. So I'm slightly happier reading what I've done was all good! Except, I had absolutely no idea about the little box behind the cubby holder! PAS module? 8Z0 941 509 B? I practically yanked it out without knowing.

Guys, what tools do you have to remove those hex bolts? the 2 on the sides, screwing upwards, 2 deep inside the centre console and the 4 mounting the passenger air bag... There isn't much space is there? Even with a small right angle driver, I struggled big time.

The story doesn't end there, because the sensor I bought was in fact incorrect. The G263 is a long probe with part 6Q0 907 543A. So I have to call Audi parts on Monday... And yes, it was a real pain to remove even with the dash out.

Finally, I think I have discovered my long issue with a metal hitting sound coming from inside the dash. I'll upload a pict later, but I'm pretty sure it is the metal bar linking the top bracket behind the instruments towards the windscreen. It looks like the screw is completely loose. Also looks like it can only be tightened from inside the engine bay?
 
photo?

the other bits sound excellent, now I can really think about damping behind the dash...

the part number you specify above is just a relay.

Bret
 
humps said:
thanks guys, I figured out the rest this afternoon the hard way. So I'm slightly happier reading what I've done was all good! Except, I had absolutely no idea about the little box behind the cubby holder! PAS module? 8Z0 941 509 B? I practically yanked it out without knowing.

Guys, what tools do you have to remove those hex bolts? the 2 on the sides, screwing upwards, 2 deep inside the centre console and the 4 mounting the passenger air bag... There isn't much space is there? Even with a small right angle driver, I struggled big time.

The story doesn't end there, because the sensor I bought was in fact incorrect. The G263 is a long probe with part 6Q0 907 543A. So I have to call Audi parts on Monday... And yes, it was a real pain to remove even with the dash out.

Finally, I think I have discovered my long issue with a metal hitting sound coming from inside the dash. I'll upload a pict later, but I'm pretty sure it is the metal bar linking the top bracket behind the instruments towards the windscreen. It looks like the screw is completely loose. Also looks like it can only be tightened from inside the engine bay?
Click to expand...

The 509B part is the indicator relay and you really need a good socket set with a few different extension bars and a universal joint.

Cheers,

mike
 
Here is the photo. The bit towards the windscreen, as the reflection showing seems to have a screw coming from below. Mine is unsecured and so the bolt knocks against the rectangular box. Since the arm is unsecured, the arm itself can also knock.

http://www.a2oc.net/pictures/showphoto.php?photo=1189&cat=10

In worst case, I'll use some plastic bits to stop it from knocking. But ideally I would like to secure the actual bolt...
 
Yes, there is meant to be a bolt going to that point - it's an M8 x 20mm hex bolt.

Not entirely certain about access, but if not visible from the engine bay, it might be accessible from the plenum chanber (to access, you'll need to remove the wiper arm and then un-snap the plastic panel at the lower edge of the windscreen).

Cheers,

Mike
 
Now I finally got a replacement of the G263, I plugged it in place along with the essential bits to start the car and check. The bad news is that I think it doesn't fix it...

I set the CC temp to LO and the air coming out is of same temperature as ECON mode. My dodgy VAG-COM cable will only talk to Central Conv unit and reported no fault code. I can't get mine to talk to Auto HVAC module... How else can I force A/C on and tell it is actually on? Looks like I need to pay the pro to take a look. Well, at least the whole dash is out to save labour cost...

Further to my problem, unknowingly I yanked the indicator light relay module out. Now I put it back it and looks like I need a new one! It makes a loud buzz when I signal. Hazard warning doesn't work either. oh well...
 
there's some ideas about how to fix indicator relays elsewhere, (i.e. in German)... but they're mainly to do with problems where it blinks once or twice, not not at all.

Bret
 
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