Wheel bearing removal, driveshaft stuck.
- Thread starter Sam212001
- Start date
kp 115
A2OC Donor
That is if you’ve got oxy/acetylene available then again you’ve access to 30 ton press so guessing your in a work shop.
Hi,
I gave up on trying to get the driveshaft out.
I managed to find a whole leg with the wheel bearing on it for £40 delivered.
Got tired with it.
30 ton press was a friend of a friend. Did not want to be impolite by asking him to heat it up and stuff as he was already doing me a favour.
kp 115
A2OC Donor
I hope this works out ok, are you going to fit a new bearing into the leg before you fit it or just chance it?
Keith
I'm going to have to chance it because I have a bad feeling that I will have to go through the same headache for the other side. I've got new bearings and the tool so will decide once the cars back on the road.
kp 115
A2OC Donor
The bottom of the driveshaft looks very close to the floor, I think you may need to raise the beam or pack up the knuckle.
Joycey
Member
The drive shaft was raised off the floor while pressing. She was well as truly stuck. I just picked up a secondhand hub for £30 and a new shaft from GSF for £130. Weren’t to bad.
I know I'm very late to the party on this but had the same problem. I bought one of those 10/12T hydraulic presses you bolt on with the wheel nuts. Broke the first hydraulic press before finding the limit they should be tightened to. Second press tightened up just before splitting (with experience). Then heated with a blow torch for about 20 minutes while under its 10/12T of force. Then hit with a lump hammer.
Obviously different driveshafts might be stuck to different degrees but that's what worked for me.
Good luck.
Obviously different driveshafts might be stuck to different degrees but that's what worked for me.
Good luck.
Quick update.
So out driving today and the driveshaft popped out from the inside. Had the car recovered. I was 100% sure i had tightened the inner driveshaft bolts. Did a bit of googling and apparently you have to use new bolts after removing old bolts. About to get some new bolts. Does anyone know the torque setting for the bolts. It's the spline bolts m10x20.
Someone even mentioned loctite. I am terrified of the stuff after i saw what it done to the driveshaft
So out driving today and the driveshaft popped out from the inside. Had the car recovered. I was 100% sure i had tightened the inner driveshaft bolts. Did a bit of googling and apparently you have to use new bolts after removing old bolts. About to get some new bolts. Does anyone know the torque setting for the bolts. It's the spline bolts m10x20.
Someone even mentioned loctite. I am terrified of the stuff after i saw what it done to the driveshaft
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Recording this to benefit other members looking for the correct torque. There are two designs of inner CV joint detailed in the manual.
The first utilises six M8 * 48mm multi point socket head bolts:
Pre tighten to 10Nm in diagonal sequence.
Tighten to 40Nm
Always renew if removed
The second utilises 6 much shorter multi point socket head bolts (size not specified in the manual):
Pre tighten to 10Nm in diagonal sequence.
Tighten to 70Nm
Always renew if removed
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Undo the screws and it comes off from memory. If that doesn't work heat is your friend.
If that doesn't work cold chisel and a big hammer. Just recently refitted Golf inner CV joints with historic cold chisel marks on them.
D
Deleted member 16918
Guest
I have just this month changed my passenger side driveshaft on my 2001 tdi. The six bolts were hard work, i can only assume that some adhesive was used. However, I cracked them with sustained hard pressure and then they just came off with no additional struggle. From experience I would use a good quality 12 point bit and make sure it is properly seated. I did find the first one quite unnerving from the stripping perspective.
With the hub end, I sacrificed an old socket and whacked it with a sledgehammer. Sustained pressure is not a good idea as it just heats up the molecules in the adhesive causing them to grip harder.
PS I changed the shaft without undoing anything else, apart from the undertray. I removed the six bolts first and the driveshaft just dropped down and then I whacked it out of the hub. I struggled with the replacement until I realised that it was not fully home in the hub. Once I had drawn it in fully with the nut it went onto the 6 bolt flange with no problems at all.
Last edited by a moderator:
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I can't imagine what this post said to be edited by a moderator but I found the inner CV screws easier to remove and torque up again working at the side of the car. A quality bit, a very long 1/2" extension and a means business breaker. Wheels off, get somebody to press the brakes, force the bit into the screw head with your body weight, backwards and forwards a few times on the breaker then pull firmly. Rotate drive shaft to access the next screw. I don't know if this was necessary but after the first screw the second to be released was opposite the first etc.
Reviving this, am in the need of help. Am attempting to separate the outer cv/driveshaft from the hub but ofcourse its glued together. No ammounts of hammering helped it come off. Its from a TDI. All i want is to get the driveshaft out so i can replace the inner CV with a kit:
Looking at this and many other nightmare posts about the glueing, and not having access to a hydraulic press,would it be wiser to just take off the driveshaft and hub together and do the replacement? Even with an improvised puller i couldnt get anything.
I managed the inner bolts mostly fine, but i dont have enough space to pull out the inner CV, even disconnecting the track rod and the bolt at the wishbone to be able to pull the outer hub/shaft out a bit...bought a puller today but the holes didnt align, but reading some posts i dont feel very confident that it'll work..
Looking at this and many other nightmare posts about the glueing, and not having access to a hydraulic press,would it be wiser to just take off the driveshaft and hub together and do the replacement? Even with an improvised puller i couldnt get anything.
Howey
Member
I presume you have slackened the driveshaft retaining nut?
It is said that the inner cv can be done in situ but I wouldn't fancy it
I think removing the shaft complete with the hub will be your best option then maybe take it to a garage and get the shaft pressed out should you ever need to do future repairs. It may be worth welding a blob onto the end of the cv to hopefully heat soak it and liquidate the locktite to help release the shaft from the hub without compromising the bearing
It is said that the inner cv can be done in situ but I wouldn't fancy it
I think removing the shaft complete with the hub will be your best option then maybe take it to a garage and get the shaft pressed out should you ever need to do future repairs. It may be worth welding a blob onto the end of the cv to hopefully heat soak it and liquidate the locktite to help release the shaft from the hub without compromising the bearing