Where is the thread for removing front bumper? It is because of my steering

Andrew

A2OC Donor
Hi, can someone point me to the thread for front bumper removal?
Hi,

I don't think there is a full blown illustrated guide. You may have found this thread that contains some instructions...


Andy
 
Removing the front bumper is a fairly involved job

So here goes ..

Bonnet off , head lamps out , jack up car , remove wheels , remove under tray , remove both wheel arch liners , access wing to bumper fixing , release bumper to wind clip , remove plastic revits to upper crash beam , the bumper then pulls forward .

That lot will take around 2 hours ,plus a large range of tools , putting it back to gather, a little longer ,especially when losing small fixings ..
 
Removing the front bumper is a fairly involved job

So here goes ..

Bonnet off , head lamps out , jack up car , remove wheels , remove under tray , remove both wheel arch liners , access wing to bumper fixing , release bumper to wind clip , remove plastic revits to upper crash beam , the bumper then pulls forward .

That lot will take around 2 hours ,plus a large range of tools , putting it back to gather, a little longer ,especially when los
 

Rod davis

Member
Thanks, I have got the wheel liners out, with little trouble. I have a problem with the three wing to bumper screws, they are almost out, but insist on dangling rather than falling out, and I cannot get my fingers into the space to fully remove them.
 

A2Steve

Member
Thanks, I have got the wheel liners out, with little trouble. I have a problem with the three wing to bumper screws, they are almost out, but insist on dangling rather than falling out, and I cannot get my fingers into the space to fully remove them.

Yes they do tend to just sit there no matter how many times you unscrew. What really helps is one of those magnets on a stick tools for finding lost items in the engine bay. If you haven't got one of those then use a flat head screw driver under the head of the screw in one hand while unscrewing with the other.
 

Rod davis

Member
Thank you again. I have put everything back ok without getting the screws out and will repeat the process tomorrow. I use the car every day, so a prolonged sojourn on the axle stands is out of the question.
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Put some thick grease or petroleum jelly on the tip of the torx bits, this will help "stick" the bolts / screws to the bit and make removal and fitting a bit easier. Magnets do not always work well or rusted or worn heads but at least they will not stick to the panels or plastics.
 

Jason1979

Member
Thanks, I have got the wheel liners out, with little trouble. I have a problem with the three wing to bumper screws, they are almost out, but insist on dangling rather than falling out, and I cannot get my fingers into the space to fully remove them.

long nosed pliers or mole grips to get in the space to pull them out (they will be undone and turn forever)... I had this same issue getting the bumper off when i bought my replacement from @sciroccorrado luckily @Mustang-owner was there and had some mole grips. im still to fit the replacement to my car... been putting it off as I know its going to take around 4 hours and have needed the car most days lately/not had the time to spare. Hoping in the coming weeks to finally get round to it.
 

Kleynie

Member
I would recommend changing all the U nuts as they will be rusty. You can buy a kit of different sizes on Amazon for around a tenner.
 

Rod davis

Member
I have delayed dealing with the bumper because my steering has improved.
  1. The steering was very heavy and the orange steering wheel with exclamation mark was flashing.
  2. The pas fluid level seemed low so I filled it up.
  3. No change.
  4. After a while, moaning and groaning from the system, but a slight improvement.
  5. I attempt to remove bumper and bash pas motor a few times in frustration.
  6. Big improvement in steering and reduced groaning, but the light remains on.
I have seen claims that the orange light is usually a hydraulic fault. I can see that the pump and reservoir is much higher than in a traditional pas system. As a result, when new fluid is added, there might not be an immediate effect because the air entrained in the system will take a while to rise up, which might explain the groaning sometime after the new fluid was added and which has now ceased as the air has left the system.
Is this a know thing.
As an additional thought, might the entrainment of air lead to a misleading rise in the level of fluid in the reservoir?
 
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A2Steve

Member
I've personally never had to use any new screws when putting a bumper back on, just used the old ones. The only ones that would be handy for you would be the plastic rivets that you see along the top of the bumper when you take the bonnet off. They tend to get lost down inside the top bumper brace.
 

OldSchool

Member
I've personally never had to use any new screws when putting a bumper back on, just used the old ones. The only ones that would be handy for you would be the plastic rivets that you see along the top of the bumper when you take the bonnet off. They tend to get lost down inside the top bumper brace.

ok, cool...

would something like this work?

 

A2Steve

Member
Yes, could be useful, but maybe a bit overkill for the size of the job.

You only need 12-14 push fittings for the arch liners and bumper combined.
 

Rod davis

Member
Best to try and recover the pins. If they are lost, a lot of people just use a screw in their place to spread the old rivet.
 
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