depronman
A2OC Donor
Hi all,
I bought a 51 plate silver A2 SE 1.4 petrol last week, it needed a few things sorting out and a good clean.
Spent two days removing the seats, carpet cleaning trim, carpets and seat and putting it all back together. So once the inside was clean I set about the mechanics.
This is where I discovered the o/s ripped CV boot and the split in the n/s CV boot.
I read the A2OC forum, but could not find a lot of info regarding changing the boots, so after replacing both boots today I thought I would add by two penth
Loosen the drive shaft nut with 36mm 12 point socket whilst the car was on the ground and an assistant with foot hard on the break
With Car up on axle stands and 8mm spline tool on long socket extension undo the 6 bolts holding the inner CV joint to the gear box flange
Pull inner joint away from gearbox flange, lift drive shaft inner end upwards and place a thick plastic bag over the inner joint, secure with tape
I tapped the CV joint splined shaft out of the hub with an aluminium drift and a SMALL hammer, it moved very easily. I had a puller ready if it was tight, but didn't need it.
make sure the inner end is held up as high as possible
Once the outer splined shaft is out of the hub, the entire shaft can be dropped down and out of the car. This was the same for n/s and o/s No ball joints had to be undone, not the bottom ball joint or the track rod end.
Remove the old boot, wash out the joint in paraffin until it was spotless and smooth to movement. Check for end play by pulling and pushing the CV joint in / out if it was on the car, mine had near zero slop somewhere about 0.2mm
I bought the CV boots with a cone, packet of lube and packet of grease, plus the stainless steel clips
turn the boot inside out, I trimmed the cone to length as it was about 3" to long, put the cone over the CV joint.
Lube the cone all over, then slide the boot small end first over the cone. I was surprised how easy the boot slide over the cone and how easy it stretched over the cone.
one on the shaft turn the boot back the from inside out and clean off the lube
clip the inner small clip in place and tighten with pincers
fill the boot with the grease supplied, keep it all the outer edge of the CV joint and top of the boot
pull boot in to place, ensure the groove in the CV Joint and the ridge in the CV boot align, then clip the boot in place and tighten the clip with pincers
waggle the joint a fair bit to ensure the large clip stays in place
Trip the excess of the boot, leaving at least 12mm on the outside of the steel clip (there is loads of room in the hub assy for this)
Apply a little grease in to the inner joint
fit a new gasket to the gear box flange
refit the drive shaft as per removal, first the outer CV joint spline in to the hub, then the inner CV joint (after removing the bag
) to the gear box flange
tighten up the 6 bolts to the gearbox flange/ inner CV joint
place a NEW 12 point nut on the driveshaft and nip up
replace road wheel
with the car on the ground, tighten road wheel bolts (5 off) and then torque the drive shaft nut to 50n/m, then tighten a further 90 deg
Job done
total time 3 1/2 hours start to finish for both CV Boots
total cost £12 for the 2 boots, gear, lube cone & £4 for the two nuts, plus £12 for a 36mm socket (that I had to turn down a little to fit the hub)
end result - one happy owner and one A2 with new boots
NO NEED to split / remove any of the ball joints, therefore tracking, steering geometry as not been disturbed.
I hope this helps some other A2 owners to do this job, as our cars age the rubber boots will need replacing and this IS a job that can be done my a competent DIY mechanic
Cheers all
Paul (Depronman)
I bought a 51 plate silver A2 SE 1.4 petrol last week, it needed a few things sorting out and a good clean.
Spent two days removing the seats, carpet cleaning trim, carpets and seat and putting it all back together. So once the inside was clean I set about the mechanics.
This is where I discovered the o/s ripped CV boot and the split in the n/s CV boot.
I read the A2OC forum, but could not find a lot of info regarding changing the boots, so after replacing both boots today I thought I would add by two penth
Loosen the drive shaft nut with 36mm 12 point socket whilst the car was on the ground and an assistant with foot hard on the break
With Car up on axle stands and 8mm spline tool on long socket extension undo the 6 bolts holding the inner CV joint to the gear box flange
Pull inner joint away from gearbox flange, lift drive shaft inner end upwards and place a thick plastic bag over the inner joint, secure with tape
I tapped the CV joint splined shaft out of the hub with an aluminium drift and a SMALL hammer, it moved very easily. I had a puller ready if it was tight, but didn't need it.
make sure the inner end is held up as high as possible
Once the outer splined shaft is out of the hub, the entire shaft can be dropped down and out of the car. This was the same for n/s and o/s No ball joints had to be undone, not the bottom ball joint or the track rod end.
Remove the old boot, wash out the joint in paraffin until it was spotless and smooth to movement. Check for end play by pulling and pushing the CV joint in / out if it was on the car, mine had near zero slop somewhere about 0.2mm
I bought the CV boots with a cone, packet of lube and packet of grease, plus the stainless steel clips
turn the boot inside out, I trimmed the cone to length as it was about 3" to long, put the cone over the CV joint.
Lube the cone all over, then slide the boot small end first over the cone. I was surprised how easy the boot slide over the cone and how easy it stretched over the cone.
one on the shaft turn the boot back the from inside out and clean off the lube
clip the inner small clip in place and tighten with pincers
fill the boot with the grease supplied, keep it all the outer edge of the CV joint and top of the boot
pull boot in to place, ensure the groove in the CV Joint and the ridge in the CV boot align, then clip the boot in place and tighten the clip with pincers
waggle the joint a fair bit to ensure the large clip stays in place
Trip the excess of the boot, leaving at least 12mm on the outside of the steel clip (there is loads of room in the hub assy for this)
Apply a little grease in to the inner joint
fit a new gasket to the gear box flange
refit the drive shaft as per removal, first the outer CV joint spline in to the hub, then the inner CV joint (after removing the bag
) to the gear box flangetighten up the 6 bolts to the gearbox flange/ inner CV joint
place a NEW 12 point nut on the driveshaft and nip up
replace road wheel
with the car on the ground, tighten road wheel bolts (5 off) and then torque the drive shaft nut to 50n/m, then tighten a further 90 deg
Job done
total time 3 1/2 hours start to finish for both CV Boots
total cost £12 for the 2 boots, gear, lube cone & £4 for the two nuts, plus £12 for a 36mm socket (that I had to turn down a little to fit the hub)
end result - one happy owner and one A2 with new boots
NO NEED to split / remove any of the ball joints, therefore tracking, steering geometry as not been disturbed.
I hope this helps some other A2 owners to do this job, as our cars age the rubber boots will need replacing and this IS a job that can be done my a competent DIY mechanic
Cheers all
Paul (Depronman)
