After hearing good reports about a Glasgow independent Audi specialist I put my A2 in to get the following done:
Replace broken drivers suspension spring, asked to replace strut top bearing and do wheel alignment also.
Timing belt kit (belt, tensioner and water pump).
Fuel filter
Quote to clear longstanding fault which caused glow plug light to stay lit. VAG COM had indicated this:
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 045 906 019 BA
Component: 1,4l R3 EDC 0000SG 5265
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 02154
WAUZZZ8Z9XXXXXXXX AUZ7Z0XXXXXXXX
1 Fault Found:
19559 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Malfunction
P3103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A
Accepted quote to replace all of above above plus the following:
Intake manifold flap/motor (Don't have access to the invoice so this is from memory)
Throttle potentiometer (Don't have access to the invoice so this is from memory)
I had not rectified the problem in good time therefore there was a build up of material on these components so they could not be cleaned/repaired.
Unfortunately soon after i got the car back once the work had been completed the engine mounting bolts came loose on the drivers side and the engine fell off it's mount. It happened when pulling away and the car was switched off immediately.
Under the bonnet I could see the horizontal piece of the mount was now very close to the cam belt pulley and the plastic covers were broken. I arranged to have it transported back to the garage. They told me they had not tightened the engine mounting bolts. I was surprised that such an important set of bolts had not been tightened correctly. Everyone makes mistakes so I accepted it and asked them to replace the anti-roll bar at the same time as fix the problems which had resulted from the engine falling off its mount.
They told me they fixed the problems, replaced ARB and replaced the timing belt again.
When i got the car back after the repairs there was a rattle which sounded like it was coming from the drivers suspension or drivers side of the engine bay. It was like a plastic on plastic noise when going over small bumps, not really noticeable on big bumps. I took the car back and they looked at it but could not find the problem. The owner of the garage was going on holiday and informed me it was safe to drive and he would fix it when he returned. A couple of days later the car developed another problem. When in neutral the gearstick would intermittently vibrate and make a metal to metal knocking noise.
I thought it possible that the two things could be related to the recent problems so set about trying to find out what the problems were. I read a lot of really useful information on this forum
. For the gear stick rattle i thought that maybe where the rod or cable goes through the bulkhead a rubber seal/grommet may have been forced out of position when the engine fell off it's mount. Which would leave the cable/rod vibrating on the bulkhead.
I had good look from above and below the car and the only thing I can see that may be causing the problem is a damaged white plastic connector at the end of one of the cables that go onto the gearbox selector arms. Will replace the piece of plastic and hope that fixes it, but think it's unlikely. Anyone else had vibrating gearstick problems (there is a joke there somewhere)?
The drivers side rattle noise, I have checked:
bump stops
all nuts and bolts that i can reach/see
engine mounts
wheel bearing
bottom ball joint
ARB
nuts on suspension
honeycomb in cat
back seats
everywhere else logical, exhaust manifold etc, etc, etc.
Has been driven it without:
bonnet
undertray
wheel arch lining
drop link
engine heat guard
I still can't find the problem, advice on what to do next would be greatly appreciated.
Along the way I discovered the independent Audi specialist:
Screwed a bolt down on top of the brake fluid level sensor wire which was obvious when you took the bonnet off.
Refitted a damaged timing belt cover, which has a hole worn in it from when the cam pulley rubbed against it when the engine fell off it's mount.
Used the incorrect bolts to mount the engine.
Refitted a slightly chipped engine mount.
Left a broken pipe holder (plastic piece, holds the intercooler pipe onto the sump to stop pipe getting damaged).
Did not fit the two nuts on the undertray (the threaded rod was not even through the holes).
I bought a VAG-COM HEX-USB (CAN) Interface Package from the cool guys at www.gendan.co.uk and guess what, wait for it, your going to laugh at this one:
1 Fault Found:
19559 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Malfunction
P3103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Only went to this garage as I had heard good reports about them. We had been doing the work required on our businesses vehicles in house as we didn't know of any good garages in the Glasgow area.
Will be going back to doing it ourselves
I am going to replace the things they should have and keep working to solve the problems.
Would also like to:
Straighten buckled wheels and get them reconditioned.
Get the door hinges fixed under warranty at Ingram Audi.
Fix/reduce the mooing sound.
Fit xenon lights.
get a Revo map
Maybe I should do some of the more enjoyable things whilst sorting the rest of the problems.
Thanks for reading,
Robbie
Replace broken drivers suspension spring, asked to replace strut top bearing and do wheel alignment also.
Timing belt kit (belt, tensioner and water pump).
Fuel filter
Quote to clear longstanding fault which caused glow plug light to stay lit. VAG COM had indicated this:
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 045 906 019 BA
Component: 1,4l R3 EDC 0000SG 5265
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 02154
WAUZZZ8Z9XXXXXXXX AUZ7Z0XXXXXXXX
1 Fault Found:
19559 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Malfunction
P3103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A
Accepted quote to replace all of above above plus the following:
Intake manifold flap/motor (Don't have access to the invoice so this is from memory)
Throttle potentiometer (Don't have access to the invoice so this is from memory)
I had not rectified the problem in good time therefore there was a build up of material on these components so they could not be cleaned/repaired.
Unfortunately soon after i got the car back once the work had been completed the engine mounting bolts came loose on the drivers side and the engine fell off it's mount. It happened when pulling away and the car was switched off immediately.
Under the bonnet I could see the horizontal piece of the mount was now very close to the cam belt pulley and the plastic covers were broken. I arranged to have it transported back to the garage. They told me they had not tightened the engine mounting bolts. I was surprised that such an important set of bolts had not been tightened correctly. Everyone makes mistakes so I accepted it and asked them to replace the anti-roll bar at the same time as fix the problems which had resulted from the engine falling off its mount.
They told me they fixed the problems, replaced ARB and replaced the timing belt again.
When i got the car back after the repairs there was a rattle which sounded like it was coming from the drivers suspension or drivers side of the engine bay. It was like a plastic on plastic noise when going over small bumps, not really noticeable on big bumps. I took the car back and they looked at it but could not find the problem. The owner of the garage was going on holiday and informed me it was safe to drive and he would fix it when he returned. A couple of days later the car developed another problem. When in neutral the gearstick would intermittently vibrate and make a metal to metal knocking noise.
I thought it possible that the two things could be related to the recent problems so set about trying to find out what the problems were. I read a lot of really useful information on this forum
. For the gear stick rattle i thought that maybe where the rod or cable goes through the bulkhead a rubber seal/grommet may have been forced out of position when the engine fell off it's mount. Which would leave the cable/rod vibrating on the bulkhead. I had good look from above and below the car and the only thing I can see that may be causing the problem is a damaged white plastic connector at the end of one of the cables that go onto the gearbox selector arms. Will replace the piece of plastic and hope that fixes it, but think it's unlikely. Anyone else had vibrating gearstick problems (there is a joke there somewhere)?
The drivers side rattle noise, I have checked:
bump stops
all nuts and bolts that i can reach/see
engine mounts
wheel bearing
bottom ball joint
ARB
nuts on suspension
honeycomb in cat
back seats
everywhere else logical, exhaust manifold etc, etc, etc.
Has been driven it without:
bonnet
undertray
wheel arch lining
drop link
engine heat guard
I still can't find the problem, advice on what to do next would be greatly appreciated.
Along the way I discovered the independent Audi specialist:
Screwed a bolt down on top of the brake fluid level sensor wire which was obvious when you took the bonnet off.
Refitted a damaged timing belt cover, which has a hole worn in it from when the cam pulley rubbed against it when the engine fell off it's mount.
Used the incorrect bolts to mount the engine.
Refitted a slightly chipped engine mount.
Left a broken pipe holder (plastic piece, holds the intercooler pipe onto the sump to stop pipe getting damaged).
Did not fit the two nuts on the undertray (the threaded rod was not even through the holes).
I bought a VAG-COM HEX-USB (CAN) Interface Package from the cool guys at www.gendan.co.uk and guess what, wait for it, your going to laugh at this one:
1 Fault Found:
19559 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Malfunction
P3103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Only went to this garage as I had heard good reports about them. We had been doing the work required on our businesses vehicles in house as we didn't know of any good garages in the Glasgow area.
Will be going back to doing it ourselves
I am going to replace the things they should have and keep working to solve the problems.
Would also like to:
Straighten buckled wheels and get them reconditioned.
Get the door hinges fixed under warranty at Ingram Audi.
Fix/reduce the mooing sound.
Fit xenon lights.
get a Revo map
Maybe I should do some of the more enjoyable things whilst sorting the rest of the problems.
Thanks for reading,
Robbie
