If you end up taking the climate control back out, the heated rear window is actually just that 2 pin plug with the white and red/black wire.
You can test the climate panel first, unplug that connector from the panel, put your meter in resistance mode/continuity mode, and measure between the two pins on the back of the climate panel where the connector was connected. With the heated window switch off, there should be no continuity/high resistance. If you switch the heater on, there should be continuity/a value very close to zero ohms. Leave all of the other plugs connected, as you’ll probably have to have to turn the ignition on/start the car for climatronic to close the contacts.
If that’s good, keep your meter on ohms. Put the black lead to any pin of any connector you can reach with a BROWN wire. Put the other lead on the pin connected to the red/black wire on the 2 pin connector (to be clear, you’re working with the wires on the car now, not on the climatronic panel). You should see a low number, but not 0.
The final test, meter on DC volts, black lead to a brown wire again. With the ignition on, put the red lead on the pin of the white wire, you should see 12 volts roughly.
Test 1 failed: Dead climatronic
Test 2 failed: Dead element or possibly aerial amplifier (not quite sure how they’re connected)
Test 3 failed: Blown fuse
You can test the climate panel first, unplug that connector from the panel, put your meter in resistance mode/continuity mode, and measure between the two pins on the back of the climate panel where the connector was connected. With the heated window switch off, there should be no continuity/high resistance. If you switch the heater on, there should be continuity/a value very close to zero ohms. Leave all of the other plugs connected, as you’ll probably have to have to turn the ignition on/start the car for climatronic to close the contacts.
If that’s good, keep your meter on ohms. Put the black lead to any pin of any connector you can reach with a BROWN wire. Put the other lead on the pin connected to the red/black wire on the 2 pin connector (to be clear, you’re working with the wires on the car now, not on the climatronic panel). You should see a low number, but not 0.
The final test, meter on DC volts, black lead to a brown wire again. With the ignition on, put the red lead on the pin of the white wire, you should see 12 volts roughly.
Test 1 failed: Dead climatronic
Test 2 failed: Dead element or possibly aerial amplifier (not quite sure how they’re connected)
Test 3 failed: Blown fuse