1.4 Tdi LUK 038145209E tandem fuel pump rebuild.
- Thread starter Little Dog
- Start date
audifan
A2OC Donor
The cabin heater and return pipes pass through the bulkhead not far from the tandem pump. What exactly is your heating problem? The tandem pump can not be the cause of your heating problem. Not concerned about legalities in UK thinking about you in Italy.
Here is a block diagram of the cooling system. Note the first line.
Diagram of coolant hose connections
1 - Exhaust gas recirculation cooler or auxiliary heater
q Exhaust gas recirculation cooler is only fitted on engines with code letters ATL
q Fitting of auxiliary heater depends on equipment level
2 - Bleeder screw
3 - Coolant pipe
4 - Heat exchanger
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
5 - Coolant pipe
6 - Coolant expansion tank
q With filler cap
q Checking pressure relief valve in filler cap → Anchor
7 - Coolant hose
8 - Bleeder screw
9 - Radiator
q Removing and installing → Chapter
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
10 - Coolant hose
11 - Oil cooler
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
q Removing and installing → Chapter „Removing and installing oil filter bracket“
12 - Coolant pump/thermostat
q Removing and installing coolant pump → Chapter
q Checking thermostat → Chapter
q Removing and installing thermostat → Chapter
13 - Cylinder head/cylinder block
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
14 - Coolant pipe
q Going to heat exchanger on vehicles without exhaust gas recirculation cooler or auxiliary heater
15 - Coolant pipe
q To exhaust gas recirculation cooler or auxiliary heater
So the ATL engine has a water inlet and outlet and is part of the cooling system so another reason not to remove it.
However if the tandem pipe has leaked over the rubber hoses it is possible they have collapsed although the water pressure normally makes them burst when eaten by diesel. I needed to change every pipe to the right of the cylinder block in the above diagram.
Is it worth driving around effectively uninsured with the risk of confiscation?
Here is a block diagram of the cooling system. Note the first line.
Diagram of coolant hose connections
1 - Exhaust gas recirculation cooler or auxiliary heater
q Exhaust gas recirculation cooler is only fitted on engines with code letters ATL
q Fitting of auxiliary heater depends on equipment level
2 - Bleeder screw
3 - Coolant pipe
4 - Heat exchanger
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
5 - Coolant pipe
6 - Coolant expansion tank
q With filler cap
q Checking pressure relief valve in filler cap → Anchor
7 - Coolant hose
8 - Bleeder screw
9 - Radiator
q Removing and installing → Chapter
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
10 - Coolant hose
11 - Oil cooler
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
q Removing and installing → Chapter „Removing and installing oil filter bracket“
12 - Coolant pump/thermostat
q Removing and installing coolant pump → Chapter
q Checking thermostat → Chapter
q Removing and installing thermostat → Chapter
13 - Cylinder head/cylinder block
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
14 - Coolant pipe
q Going to heat exchanger on vehicles without exhaust gas recirculation cooler or auxiliary heater
15 - Coolant pipe
q To exhaust gas recirculation cooler or auxiliary heater
So the ATL engine has a water inlet and outlet and is part of the cooling system so another reason not to remove it.
However if the tandem pipe has leaked over the rubber hoses it is possible they have collapsed although the water pressure normally makes them burst when eaten by diesel. I needed to change every pipe to the right of the cylinder block in the above diagram.
Is it worth driving around effectively uninsured with the risk of confiscation?
Last edited:
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I think @audifan has it all covered again but I have a few further comments for you (@cooper )
When I was investigating a large oil leak, that tuned out to be the tandem pump, I noticed the EGR valve was weeping oil so I replaced it. I have an ANF engine that has a combined anti shudder and EGR valve. This valve would have to be modified to give the same effect as the kit you have identified for your valve. I looked into the possibility of remapping and asked about changes to EGR functionality In some cases it is mapped out but for my engine a vac pipe is simply detached and plugged. I gave it a try primarily to avoid soot buildup in the valve and inlet. The car struggled to warm up so I thought it better long term if it got upto temperature faster. My valve is reconnected, the car runs smoother and warms up normally.
That is my experience however the point I want to make is; if you have an electrically operated EGR valve would removal cause error codes and warnings unless the valve is mapped out?
Again while diagnosing the tandem pump oil leak I noticed the same turbo leak on my car. I cleaned it, along with the rest of the back of the engine several times I use brake cleaner for a quick local clean or Gunk for a more general clean. Both applied with hand held spray guns. The turbo turned out the be weeping not dripping so it is still on my things to do list.
When I was investigating a large oil leak, that tuned out to be the tandem pump, I noticed the EGR valve was weeping oil so I replaced it. I have an ANF engine that has a combined anti shudder and EGR valve. This valve would have to be modified to give the same effect as the kit you have identified for your valve. I looked into the possibility of remapping and asked about changes to EGR functionality In some cases it is mapped out but for my engine a vac pipe is simply detached and plugged. I gave it a try primarily to avoid soot buildup in the valve and inlet. The car struggled to warm up so I thought it better long term if it got upto temperature faster. My valve is reconnected, the car runs smoother and warms up normally.
That is my experience however the point I want to make is; if you have an electrically operated EGR valve would removal cause error codes and warnings unless the valve is mapped out?
Again while diagnosing the tandem pump oil leak I noticed the same turbo leak on my car. I cleaned it, along with the rest of the back of the engine several times I use brake cleaner for a quick local clean or Gunk for a more general clean. Both applied with hand held spray guns. The turbo turned out the be weeping not dripping so it is still on my things to do list.
Last edited:
cooper
Member
Audifan I did not want to offend anyone my was just curiosity, I read and I see both in the UK and in Germany you can make changes that are not allowed in Italy, then people maybe do the same for the passion of cars. The Bosch tandem pump I ordered for about 190 euros some pipes are damaged and are to be changed. Then the heating problem is this: I turn on the climate hot air arrives for about 1 minute then it becomes cold. I have no error codes.
We confirm that I have also lost oil from the EGR that was changed in 2015. I will verify the misalignment of the camshaft otherwise I will decide whether to eliminate it or change it. Then I will think of the turbo and I hope I have finished.
My name is Giovanni and I have a part of my family in Swansea now third generation Englishmen. I have 10 first cousins there. Thank you for the help you are offering me
We confirm that I have also lost oil from the EGR that was changed in 2015. I will verify the misalignment of the camshaft otherwise I will decide whether to eliminate it or change it. Then I will think of the turbo and I hope I have finished.
My name is Giovanni and I have a part of my family in Swansea now third generation Englishmen. I have 10 first cousins there. Thank you for the help you are offering me
audifan
A2OC Donor
No offence taken Giovanni, just did not want to advise you do do anything illegal. I was ultimately letting you make any decision you wanted regarding removal. My personal opinion is I do not think there is much to be gained apart from a quicker warm up keeping the valve ( the tdi 75 is not water cooled only the tdi 90 ) after the car has done say 30000 miles. Glad to see you are going to get a Bosch pump, again make sure you get a good quality pump to head gasket and everything is spotlessly clean around the head and pump before fitting and torque the bolts after running them down evenly to prevent distorting or crushing the gasket unevenly. Your heating problem? How cold is it outside when you have this problem? I see you have listed your car as a 2004. This car will have an electrical auxiliary heater fitted (in the uk anyway) and certain conditions have to be met for it to start and run. If these condition are not met perhaps in your case the additional heater turns off. If the problem occurs when the engine is warm then I would be looking at the temperature control flap. A VCDS scan will show hvac issues - normally we all have errors about positioning flaps etc and ignore them!. Replace your pump and hoses, flush and replace your coolant, clean the area around the turbo,look up between the center consol and the glove box and with the engine running operate the temperature control all the way hot to all the way cold a couple of times while you are looking to see the temp control flap moving through its complete range. Remove the climate panel from the dash and make sure the little fan spins and is not full of debris as they tend to suck in all sorts. I have seen a fur ball that a cat would be proud of inside a fan before!!!
So you have relatives not all that far from me, that is why the ice cream in Swansea is some of the best.
Bit of a long reply, sorry about that. Keep asking questions and we will keep trying to help.
Graham.
So you have relatives not all that far from me, that is why the ice cream in Swansea is some of the best.
Bit of a long reply, sorry about that. Keep asking questions and we will keep trying to help.
Graham.
cooper
Member
Hi all,
I replaced the egr valve and the tandem pump and the gasket. I no longer have engine oil and fuel leaks, but I have a strong vibration around 1500 rpm during acceleration and during the release I hear a low noise in the central tunnel. You have some advice, suggestion or it could be a new problem. In any case, tomorrow I will take the car to the mechanic
I replaced the egr valve and the tandem pump and the gasket. I no longer have engine oil and fuel leaks, but I have a strong vibration around 1500 rpm during acceleration and during the release I hear a low noise in the central tunnel. You have some advice, suggestion or it could be a new problem. In any case, tomorrow I will take the car to the mechanic
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Hi Giovanni
Did you do any work down there? If so I would check to make sure everything is in the correct position and sufficiently tight.
If not I would first check the engine bay under tray and the center tunnel heat shields. Screws fall out and heat shields corrode.
Did you do any work down there? If so I would check to make sure everything is in the correct position and sufficiently tight.
If not I would first check the engine bay under tray and the center tunnel heat shields. Screws fall out and heat shields corrode.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Result! Engine failure avoided.