A JYE to behold & a project in progress!

site:a2oc.net space saver
Haha, cheers Alan & @dj_efk, glad my ramblings are somewhat interesting.
Y' know, a space saver would've been handy the other night, rather than limping the car home 4 miles at 20mph. I keep a pump and a puncture repair kit in my daily car (currently the Renault), but haven't yet bought a VAG compressor to go in the boot orifice to replace the missing one. Did bid on one a couple weeks ago which seemingly had no interest - until the last second of the auction! I've got the bottle of sealant (for annoying tyre fitters), but not much good on it's own in any case... 🤪
Good tip Re. search tactics though. The thing I find most frustrating with the built in search, is how many needed specific terms are ignored (TDi/BHC to name two important examples!) due to being too short. That's where an external search engine works wonders.
It crossed my mind whether I ought post a how-to, and possibly also for a couple other things (such as fuel flap push switch repair, and gear lever assembly strip & reassemble), but was concerned I might miss that they'd been covered by how-to's already. I haven't had chance to look yet.
Also, being I'm still quite new to the club, not sure if it'd come across a bit cheeky.

I'lll see what I can put together for the upholstery, though not the easiest thing to put enough photographic detail into without having better lighting and someone else handy to operate the camera.
 
@simon martyn Thanks very much indeed Simon. My perseverance with these things is just how I roll with most things. I've always been a repairer rather than a replacer wherever possible or practical, which is in part due to being on a tight budget most of my life. It's often the case that if I want something nice, I have to find one that's tired or faulty and repair it! Time consuming - yes, sometimes (often) flippin' annoying... but also very satisfying. I certainly never get a chance to be bored, though often think it'd be lovely to relax, thinking there's nothing I need to be doing. I'm sure I'm not alone there!

After a bit of a break from things, here's a bit more from the archive.

At the end of April, I decided to investigate the non-functional headlight beam height compensation on the Drivers side. Both beam patterns are poorly set (low and too far to the left) and I'll revisit that later. There's no sense playing with the manual adjusters if the servo actuator is in some unknown position!

As these things tend to be, this "quick job" turned into a can of worms! (More on that in the next post). After popping the cover off and giving the connectors a wobble, still no-worky. So to eliminate the wiring as the cause, I temporarily took the servo from the left headlight and connected it in place of the non-working one. This worked perfectly, and confirmed it was the servo at fault.

I took the whole headlamp indoors, gave it a thorough wash, including unclipping the delicate rubber edged trim to clean the green mossy build up from in and under it, and then carefully used boiling water to straighten out an area where the rubber had been getting caught under the bonnet edge due to misalignment. Now onto the servo.

The OEM units dismantle quite easily after carefully easing the several clips apart.

IMG_20230428_011214.jpg

After sliding the PCB out of the housing, it was immediately clear there had been water ingress and it seems it got in past the green pushrod, and pooled in the corner. This headlamp had been fogging up quite badly for who knows how long, and I suspect that led to this.

IMG_20230428_011418.jpg IMG_20230428_011638.jpg

The corner of the PCB had suffered severe corrosion, and there was also a suspicious build-up under the capacitor:

IMG_20230428_011758.jpg

After thorough cleaning with IPA, a glassfibre pen, dental scraper and cotton buds to remove all corrosion and flaking green solder-resist:

IMG_20230505_012801.jpg

The corrosion and moisture likely caused an electrical short, and had also damaged the capacitor, though the traces were to my surprise mostly intact. I removed the old cap and soldered in the only 22uf electrolytic I had on hand which was only rated at 25v compared to the original 50v. This is generally a bad idea to substitute in a lower volt-rated cap, and can lead to a shorter lifespan, but I chose to risk that, as this unit shouldn't see voltages anywhere near 25v. I haven't yet probed the vehicle wiring to see what is supplied on these cars, but these usually operate on a regulated 5v supply via the dash control wheel from the lighting/body control module, with the 5 volts being varied from 0-5v for each height setting, Potentially there may also be 12v supplied to run the motor, but I will have to check that another time (maybe someone here knows?). Ultimately, the highest voltage this could see is 15-17 volts.

New capacitor soldered in:

IMG_20230505_012847.jpg

Having done all this, I checked for continuity through the motor, and also tested the other components on the board. The one thing I didn't test was the comparator chip. There are no markings on it, so I couldn't look it up to find what signals should be present at it's eight pins. With more reverse-engineering it may be possible to suss this out, but that's a project for a later date. The last step was to apply a thin coat of clear epoxy to the bare copper traces for protection. UV cure conformal coating would be more suitable, but I didn't have any at the time.

Ultimately, after reassembling & refitting to the car, it still didn't work (the IC chip is probably damaged), so I'll track down a working used actuator soon to get things working for now.
 
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Wow - when I wanted to fix the same issue I just threw the old leveller unit away and fitted a new OE one bought from eBay for 40 quid!

Hats off to you for saving this one.
 
Now the "can of worms" bit.

The first thing I noticed after looking closer at the headlamp, was that the plastic sidelight lens was burnt, melted & ugly. The second was spotting what I'm sure was the cause of the dampness getting into the headlight. I wonder if this is why so many here also report having the fogging issue?

With the access cover off, I noticed at the outer end where the cover hooks in, instead of clamping down on top of the seal, the edge of the cover had instead pushed the seal aside making very poor contact. Looking at this further, It's obvious this is a case of poor design, and I later found the other headlamp had the same issue, though that one seems to have stayed dry inside so far.

The idea of course is, you slide the plastic "fingers" of the cover into the receiving holes on the housing, with the cover tilted away from the headlamp, then press it down and pull over the wire clip to secure in place.

I didn't manage to get pictures to demonstrate, but the problem is, that as you tilt the cover into position, the face of the seal stands so high that the lip of the cover can't clear it as it "rotates" down into place. This is worse still if refitting the cover with the unit still installed in the car, as, due to the plastic mounting frame being in the way, you cant get much of an angle at all as you slide the cover into the holes.

My solution to this was to flip the seal over in the recess with the worn face down, so the rest of the cover would seal more securely. Then I carefully with a fresh sharp blade trimmed the problem section of the seal down flush with the top of the recess it sits in. This is not Ideal, as it exposes the possibly porous inner foam core of the seal, but it does then allow for the edge of the cover to sit down centrally on the seal as it should do, and there's still ample compression, even having trimmed off about 2mm from the height.
Another probably better idea would be to smoothly trim a little off the plastic lip of the cover at that end to achieve the same result. On reflection, I wish I'd done it that way as it would've been just as easy, and wouldn't have compromised the smooth finished surface of the seal!

Here's a Paint sketch I just knocked up to try and clarify:
Headlamp seal issue.png




Now for the melted sidelight issue. The same had also happened to the left sidelight, only on that side it had caused the bulb to become well and truly stuck in place, that it had to be forced out after first removing the plastic lens assembly from the headlamp.

I find it very strange that this problem exists at all, as this seems a very poor design choice. It's all the more strange that this only seems to happen to some A2's (I've only found a couple of posts from others mentioning this issue here).
Both sidelight bulbs had clearly been in place for a long time given how blackened the inside of the bulbs were (as you can see in the photo below). They were also both the correct wattage (EDIT: or not, as @Proghound has pointed out, they should be 3w, and the P/O had fitted 5w!). I'm sure the damage occurred or at least got worse with these bulbs fitted, given how jammed in place they were.
I wonder if this is a problem of some batches of plastic used for the lenses not being heat resistant enough, or whether it's certain dodgy bulbs being hotter than they should be for the given wattage? Anyone have thoughts on this?

IMG_20230506_011350.jpg


After about an hour of carefully chipping, scraping and filing away the lumpy & brittle burnt areas of plastic, not only to improve the appearance, but to restore the internal diameter to give space for the new bulbs:

IMG_20230506_023800.jpg


The photo below is after doing the work on the left sidelight lens a few days later & shows the amount of material I had to remove from just this one lens, along with the various tools needed and the replacement bulb.
I'm not a fan of retrofitting LED bulbs without very good reason. In this case though, LED's are definitely the way to go, as they run much cooler and will avoid any further damage. It is, though very necessary to clear all the blistered plastic out of the lens, as the LED wedge bulbs are slightly wider, and won't fit otherwise.

IMG_20230516_163105.jpg


Not perfect, but a vast improvement, and all back together:
IMG_20230516_165646.jpg
 
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The sidelights should be W3W bulbs. I understand the issue is that many previous owners just fitted the more common W5W because they're the right size and it's only a sidelight, innit.
 
The sidelights should be W3W bulbs. I understand the issue is that many previous owners just fitted the more common W5W because they're the right size and it's only a sidelight, innit.
Ah, that explains it. It had occurred to me that I've never come across a W*W format bulb higher than 5 watt, but also have never yet (until now) come across a car needing 3watt sidelight bulbs. Usually only needed those for interior lights, hence my also making the wrong assumption. Hadn't spotted that in the handbook yet. At some point I would have, as I put together a customised set of correct spare bulbs & fuses for cars I keep long term. Haven't quite got that far with this one yet.
 
Ah, that explains it. It had occurred to me that I've never come across a W*W format bulb higher than 5 watt, but also have never yet (until now) come across a car needing 3watt sidelight bulbs. Usually only needed those for interior lights, hence my also making the wrong assumption. Hadn't spotted that in the handbook yet. At some point I would have, as I put together a customised set of correct spare bulbs & fuses for cars I keep long term. Haven't quite got that far with this one yet.
I purchased a spare set on eBay for a few pounds with the wiring associated to allow a refit ,
with my damaged ones then repaired at my leisure for stock.
 
Thanks for posting this @Chris B - you've reminded me that Audrey is currently wearing tungsten bulbs fitted by my garage as one of the LEDs had failed. I don't know if they fitted 3w or 5w, so that's prompted me to order a new set of THESE LED replacements.
 
Are they a straight swop?
The LED bulbs? Yes they plug straight in to the bulb holder just as the old bulbs. The only issue will be if your lenses have been melted inside by hot bulbs in the past, as the LED's may not fit or could get stuck. Other than that, it's just a case of making sure both bulbs are working before slotting them back into the headlamp, as unlike the old bulbs, LED's have to have the right polarity, and as these wedge bulbs will fit in the holder either way round, you may need to pull it back out & rotate it 180 degrees. If the new bulb has (+) & (-) markings, then line the (-) side up with the brown wire to the bulb holder which is the earth wire.
 
Are they a straight swop?
As @Chris B says above George - with the additional comment that no canbus adapters or other modifications are necessary - they give a nice bright modern white look too which I like (and think is slightly safer - I have my auto-headlamp switch set to bring the sidelights on in anything other than brilliant sunshine - Audrey's dark red paintwork could be unassuming to someone glancing left and right before pulling out onto shaded country roads round here).
 
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