A2 Tdi 2003. Loss of power when cold ABS and Yellow Triangle on! All clears once engine is warm and drives normal. Very confused, please help.

The bleed screw is really a drain screw to allow water to be drained from the fuel system
The original plastic one is VERY fragile and is 95% certain to break
You have to remove it to change the fuel filter but you also should drain any water and a little fuel every 6 to 12 months

I manufacture cnc machines aluminium drain screws as a drop in replacement
PM me if you want one

Cheers. Paul


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Sure πŸ‘ would love one.
Does it go onto the new filter and keep reusing it ie, transferring it to new filters every time I change the fuel filter?

Also, how do I PM you? 😊
Can't see a PM 'button'
 
Sure πŸ‘ would love one.
Does it go onto the new filter and keep reusing it ie, transferring it to new filters every time I change the fuel filter?

Also, how do I PM you? 😊
Can't see a PM 'button'
Hover the mouse over his name adn a 'start converstation' will appear :) I can vouch as many others for Pauls work, the bleed screw cap thing for the filter is a dream. Be good to check you have the newer style fuel filter first though jsut incase. Some older models had the canister I think? Look under the heat shield infront the back left wheel, inside form jacking point.
 

Everything you need right here...
 
I'd investigate the "low voltage code" that the mechanic didn't understand. If there is a low voltage, then that needs fixing first, as it will cause all sorts of problems. It sounds like the scan was generic, find someone local who can scan with VCDS, before you spend any money, is my advice.
Mac
Edit: The improvement when the engine is warm, may simply be that the battery had received enough charge to supply full voltage, nothing to do with engine temperature.
 
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What about the starter motor earth - could this be in play? I've been reading this thread and having some "spidey sense" thoughts this afternoon based on other threads read here and my own part-similar experiences.

A couple of years back I went from reading about "the starter motor earth issue" here in passing to having the issue - which cost me 2 new batteries before I worked out what was going on - and by following various instructions from here I resolved the "bad starting since the cold snap started" in both my Tdis. A big voltage drop when starting as a result of the colder battery, colder fuel and that earth being mucky could bring up all sorts of warning lights as ECUs get upset before it gets quite bad enough to simply not crank properly giving the impression of a dud battery.

Could also result in the engine running effectively in some form of limp mode to begin with?
 
Have you got the right size battery? I found a battery brand new installed in a friends A2 1.4 (Petrol) and upon checking all looked fine, but it appears it was an inadequate replacement. It only filled half the battery area and was selected based on being cheap. The car started each day ok, but was erratic... and could not be relied on . All sorts of warning lights ping up Traction Control , ABS, the Red Brake warning, EPC, EML too, changing the battery resolved these issues. The other issue I saw on this car was the EGR valve and Throttle Body playing up. Would also check or add another earth, seen this issue as well (on TDI). Not sure if all of any of this is relevant to the TDI but I think A2's are sensitive to the size and state of battery fitted
 
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Have you got the right size battery? I found a battery brand new installed in a friends A2 1.4 (Petrol) and upon checking all looked fine, but it appears it was an inadequate replacement. It only filled half the battery area and was selected based on being cheap. The car started each day ok, but was erratic... and could not be relied on . All sorts of warning lights ping up Traction Control , ABS, the Red Brake warning, EPC, EML too, changing the battery resolved these issues. The other issue I saw on this car was the EGR valve and Throttle Body playing up. Would also check or add another earth, seen this issue as well (on TDI). Not sure if all of any of this is relevant to the TDI but I think A2's are sensitive to the size and state of battery fitted
Thank you very much sir.
I have spoken with the garage to ensure that they supply the correct battery.
Would a more powerful battery be a better option? Thank you for your time and advice 🀝
 
What about the starter motor earth - could this be in play? I've been reading this thread and having some "spidey sense" thoughts this afternoon based on other threads read here and my own part-similar experiences.

A couple of years back I went from reading about "the starter motor earth issue" here in passing to having the issue - which cost me 2 new batteries before I worked out what was going on - and by following various instructions from here I resolved the "bad starting since the cold snap started" in both my Tdis. A big voltage drop when starting as a result of the colder battery, colder fuel and that earth being mucky could bring up all sorts of warning lights as ECUs get upset before it gets quite bad enough to simply not crank properly giving the impression of a dud battery.

Could also result in the engine running effectively in some form of limp mode to begin with?
Hello sir and thank you for taking the time to write 🀝
This is a very important point you have pointed out and you are absolutely right about the earth being a possible problem here.
I will definitely check this out.
I've pulled a muscle early this morning and haven't even been able to step outside lol.
So hopefully in a few days time.

Good health to you sir
Best wishes
Mo
 
is your 12V battery in good nick? does it crank fine before start?
Hello sir and thank you for your response 🀝
The battery has never shown any signs of weakness and I drive with lots of short drives and start and stops regularly.
The battery will be checked over and replaced if necessary.

Have a lovely weekend sir
Mo
 
Have you got the right size battery? I found a battery brand new installed in a friends A2 1.4 (Petrol) and upon checking all looked fine, but it appears it was an inadequate replacement. It only filled half the battery area and was selected based on being cheap. The car started each day ok, but was erratic... and could not be relied on . All sorts of warning lights ping up Traction Control , ABS, the Red Brake warning, EPC, EML too, changing the battery resolved these issues. The other issue I saw on this car was the EGR valve and Throttle Body playing up. Would also check or add another earth, seen this issue as well (on TDI). Not sure if all of any of this is relevant to the TDI but I think A2's are sensitive to the size and state of battery fitted
Hello sir and thank you for your response and advice. I sincerely appreciate you taking the time for me 🀝.
The battery will get checked over and replaced soon. I have been reading the same and seems like the A2s are fussy and do not like all batteries πŸ˜‚

Have a lovely weekend
Mo
 
I'd investigate the "low voltage code" that the mechanic didn't understand. If there is a low voltage, then that needs fixing first, as it will cause all sorts of problems. It sounds like the scan was generic, find someone local who can scan with VCDS, before you spend any money, is my advice.
Mac
Edit: The improvement when the engine is warm, may simply be that the battery had received enough charge to supply full voltage, nothing to do with engine temperature.
Hello sir and thank you for your advice 🀝

I agree the scan may have been generic, not sure what machine should have been used but I saw it was a Snap On branded device.
I will raise this with the garage and get them to check the battery over and the earth inc the starter motor earth.

Thank you again and have a lovely weekend
Mo
 
Hello friends

So sorry for the delay as I'm unwell.
I wanted to update you all here, especially those of you who have helped me with your advice and precious time.

Yesterday I had the garage change the battery even though the old battery was still fully charging having been installed in 2007 (wow!).

Sadly, the problem still persists after the battery and fuel filter change 😒

Hopefully I'm going to have the loom changed (will check loose connections as suggested here) and report back.

Oh, scan still shows, low voltage and misfire cylinder two.

Thank you all and will report back.

Have a lovely weekend everyone
Mo
 
Gentlemen, I have managed to get these off of the mechanic.
Any help, guidance and support is sincerely appreciated.
 

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Gentlemen, I have managed to get these off of the mechanic.
Any help, guidance and support is sincerely appreciated.

I’d be looking at the injector loom in The engine
You may be able to tighten the connectors or change the loom
Getting the rocker cover to seal again is the worst part of the job

Paul


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I’d be looking at the injector loom in The engine
You may be able to tighten the connectors or change the loom
Getting the rocker cover to seal again is the worst part of the job

Paul


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Thank you sir,

I will tell the mechanic tomorrow who's recommended that I also change the 'faulty' injector as the rocker cover will be open and the seals will be done.

Any advice will be hugely appreciated
Best wishes
Mo
 
Thank you sir,

I will tell the mechanic tomorrow who's recommended that I also change the 'faulty' injector as the rocker cover will be open and the seals will be done.

Any advice will be hugely appreciated
Best wishes
Mo

PD injectors rarely fail. They can wear out but failure is very unlikely
The loom is far far more likely
Changing an injector is no two minute job

Paul


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Thank you sir

The mechanic doesn't have VaG com. The above pictures show the codes

18075
16686

I have asked him to check the loom and connections first before spending money on a new injector.

He'll check that and says that the looms are very well made and almost never break down, the only issue is that they come loose.

We'll find out soon enough
 

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Thank you sir

The mechanic doesn't have VaG com. The above pictures show the codes

18075
16686

I have asked him to check the loom and connections first before spending money on a new injector.

He'll check that and says that the looms are very well made and almost never break down, the only issue is that they come loose.

We'll find out soon enough

Well that’s not true
The looms do break
They also get loose connections over many miles
The loom lives in a harsh environment cold. Hot. Oil. Vibration etc

Paul


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