I thought I'd start a Project thread to document progress maintaining and repairing my Azure blue FSI.
So when I bought the car in 2023 it
didn't start on first attempt and needed a bit of throttle, it had a minor misfire, badly resprayed rear arches and signs that the passenger doors had been partially resprayed. Oh and 4 ditch-finder tyres. This doesn't sound promising but in reality the overall condition was very good for its age. Complete with the book pack showing patchy service history...I think it started on long-life service intervals which haven't turned-out to be cost effective based upon various forum posts!
I've tried to resolve the poor starting and misfire on cylinder 2, but neither a new coil pack, nor swapping a known good spark plug or adding another earth strap has resolved this issue. Thanks to lots of help/advice from @PlasticMac and other members. I wonder if there is a breakdown in the wiring is the issue (I had this on my Beetle TDI). I did have the A2 booked in at WOM Automotive, however I had to cancel since my colleague was on paternity for a month, so I need to reschedule.
Today I was investigating why the red genie oil light has recently been coming on. I ordered a pressure gauge kit since I couldn't find mine....I've now uncovered 3 sets! This is an issue I had on the ex BG 1.6 Caddy and I was hoping the outcome wasn't the same.
So fully warmed-up at idle the oil pressure is 1 bar, upping the revs to 4000 shows up to 4 bar (the gauge is marked-up 0.6-0.8) so I'm not sure why it was alerting.
I had a spare oil pressure switch so have swapped it out and will monitor.
I also started to change the rear arches for a pair I bought off @Ami . Have swapped the OS one, but the NS one had a stuck screw. I've got it turning but I suspect the captive nut has sheared. I'd have drilled it out but my son has borrowed my electric drill
I also decided to check the rear brakes since the pads are binding and "clonk-off" when starting off. The discs and pads have been renewed but when I took the caliper off the pads were locked in the carrier. I needed to use quite a lot of force to persuade them out with a strong screwdriver (that's not right). I cleaned the sliding surfaces and re-installed with the rattle shims but they were far too tight, so I removed the lower shim and the pads are snug and release when taking the handbrake off. I need to get some new quality pads (not sure what brand are currently installed.
I also removed the bonnet rubber drains, the left one was full of debris. I also sprayed 3-in-1 on the gearbox selector pivots.
I will get some service bits and change the oil, oil filter, air filter and cabin filter. I already have the spark plugs. The dipstick readings are questionable since I'm sure any oil in the tube distorts the readings. I'm going to try a netting rail (plastic covered spring thingy).
'til next "playtime" :{) .
So when I bought the car in 2023 it
didn't start on first attempt and needed a bit of throttle, it had a minor misfire, badly resprayed rear arches and signs that the passenger doors had been partially resprayed. Oh and 4 ditch-finder tyres. This doesn't sound promising but in reality the overall condition was very good for its age. Complete with the book pack showing patchy service history...I think it started on long-life service intervals which haven't turned-out to be cost effective based upon various forum posts!
I've tried to resolve the poor starting and misfire on cylinder 2, but neither a new coil pack, nor swapping a known good spark plug or adding another earth strap has resolved this issue. Thanks to lots of help/advice from @PlasticMac and other members. I wonder if there is a breakdown in the wiring is the issue (I had this on my Beetle TDI). I did have the A2 booked in at WOM Automotive, however I had to cancel since my colleague was on paternity for a month, so I need to reschedule.
Today I was investigating why the red genie oil light has recently been coming on. I ordered a pressure gauge kit since I couldn't find mine....I've now uncovered 3 sets! This is an issue I had on the ex BG 1.6 Caddy and I was hoping the outcome wasn't the same.
So fully warmed-up at idle the oil pressure is 1 bar, upping the revs to 4000 shows up to 4 bar (the gauge is marked-up 0.6-0.8) so I'm not sure why it was alerting.
I had a spare oil pressure switch so have swapped it out and will monitor.
I also started to change the rear arches for a pair I bought off @Ami . Have swapped the OS one, but the NS one had a stuck screw. I've got it turning but I suspect the captive nut has sheared. I'd have drilled it out but my son has borrowed my electric drill
I also decided to check the rear brakes since the pads are binding and "clonk-off" when starting off. The discs and pads have been renewed but when I took the caliper off the pads were locked in the carrier. I needed to use quite a lot of force to persuade them out with a strong screwdriver (that's not right). I cleaned the sliding surfaces and re-installed with the rattle shims but they were far too tight, so I removed the lower shim and the pads are snug and release when taking the handbrake off. I need to get some new quality pads (not sure what brand are currently installed.
I also removed the bonnet rubber drains, the left one was full of debris. I also sprayed 3-in-1 on the gearbox selector pivots.
I will get some service bits and change the oil, oil filter, air filter and cabin filter. I already have the spark plugs. The dipstick readings are questionable since I'm sure any oil in the tube distorts the readings. I'm going to try a netting rail (plastic covered spring thingy).
'til next "playtime" :{) .
Last edited: