Brake light switch how to change ?
- Thread starter Audi lurker
- Start date
As is the custom every year, a few days before we are about to go on holiday, the orange glow light symbol on my dash starts to flash! Arrgghh!! This is the 3rd time in 3 years that I will be replacing it. Thanks for the 'heads up' on the green one. Will pick up 2 today and get it done again.
Neil
Neil
john-wingnut
Active Member
I know this is slightly off topic, but I have just recently replaced mine with a green one.
I was having problems with my radio reception with interference, now its fine. Could possibly be due to a dying brake light switch :S
I was having problems with my radio reception with interference, now its fine. Could possibly be due to a dying brake light switch :S
Quite possible, poor/bad/oxidised contacts can cause effect like this.
Cheers
Sarge
Did the brake light switch replacement for my 2001 petrol. I bought the original black switch as I found the discussion about green replacement too late. Black was just OK and replacement was straightforward. I just fixed it in place while pressing the brake pedal to get room for the long stick. Then when pedal is released it adjusts the stick height to become a pair with the pedal. According to what I read from the forum I thought it would be much more difficult.
There might be different locations for this brake light switch because mine was right on top of the brake pedal which seems not to be the case in some pictures in this thread. Mine was easy to access. See the brake switch on top of the brake pedal.
There might be different locations for this brake light switch because mine was right on top of the brake pedal which seems not to be the case in some pictures in this thread. Mine was easy to access. See the brake switch on top of the brake pedal.
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Colin Shurvell
Member
Looks like the lhd ones are different to rhd. More room to get to the switches, and definitely different layout to rhd. On ours the plastic trunking obscures both switches which are close together near the clutch pedal. Im still having overfueling probs with mine after replacing the clutch switch, (adjusted piston to same as old one ie just touching the bracket with no pressure on the pedal ) Is there a special way of setting it up? Also should I replace the brake switch and maybe the small wire loom between the switches as they seem to be linked to each other. Everything works ok, just the occassional running like the choke is on in 1st or reverse momentarily especially on a slight slope. Sorry to go off topic. Cheers Colin.
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Draggon
A2OC Donor
Well you guys have saved me a few quid, just replaced the brake light switch today (with the green version, only one available at TPS Parts in Tewkesbury)
Works a treat...no EPC light and brake lights now work again.
Worth taking the T25 screw out above the clutch pedal as already mentioned, that way the air way plastic trunking comes out allowing more room...it also does not stress the lower dash when you bend it out of the way
Thanks All
Works a treat...no EPC light and brake lights now work again.
Worth taking the T25 screw out above the clutch pedal as already mentioned, that way the air way plastic trunking comes out allowing more room...it also does not stress the lower dash when you bend it out of the way
Thanks All
Yeah Audi said same thing to me as well 10 days + wait...went down to my local TPS and they had one in stock...I took a pic
View attachment 10525
Think part no is = 7L6 945 511
Had the same issue on my brothers car so ordered a couple from Stoke Audi as thought it would be good to have a spare. Incidentially Audi kept on cancelling the order for the 2nd switch as they thought they knew better but eventually almost 2 months later I got the 2nd switch.
In the meantime I had got one delivered in 2 days from EuroCarparts as my bro was reluctant to drive with a baby in the bake and no brake lights. Fitted and working fine but just don't play with the piston on the switch as its addicited and before you know it your`ve broken the switch. I did that to the first switch I bought late last year when replacing it on my car.
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Unless the TT shop are going to fit for free then do it yourself.
1. Push in twisty knob for lights and pull out.
2. unclip plastic surround - just pull back towards you and it comes off.
3. remove air duct (attached by 2 plastic screws from memory)
4. Locate switch.
5. Disconnect connecting wires - (simply pull plug out of switch)
6. twist switch (counter clockwise from memory)
7. insert new switch and twist in opp direction of removal.
repeat all the other steps in revese.
Can take a good 20 minutes first time but after that it can be done in under a couple of minutes (if you never refit the plastic air duct).
Draggon
A2OC Donor
ahh I can only comment on the green version...but basically i pushed it in and the ram might have moved a bit as i pushed in if that make sense....but I am assuming that once it is then twisted into place it sorts itself out (distance etc)
Sorry I cannot be more exact/technical
Sorry I cannot be more exact/technical
definately dont push the piston into the switch as that will set it to the lowest setting.
I just slotted mine straight in and it compresses when you fit. However if you are unsure you can push on the brake pedal which will give you clearance on the switch piston when you twist it into position. Then when the pedal is releashed it compresses the piston to the required length.
I just slotted mine straight in and it compresses when you fit. However if you are unsure you can push on the brake pedal which will give you clearance on the switch piston when you twist it into position. Then when the pedal is releashed it compresses the piston to the required length.
I would remove the switch and check the piston length that its still in the long position (which is should be). And then refit as it sounds like its not quite set properly.
If you have the black one (not audi part) you need to be quite tough when you twist it as a little bit of plastic is supposed to break off as the barrell twists inside the switch. A bit had to explain but remove the switch and have a look.
I must say, I`ve heard of faulty switches triggering all lights but to just trigger the high level light then it must be something else. Are you sure the bulbs just haven`t gone?
edit: just read that you have the genuine Audi switch as opposed the an aftermarket one wiht the barrell that twists.
If you have the black one (not audi part) you need to be quite tough when you twist it as a little bit of plastic is supposed to break off as the barrell twists inside the switch. A bit had to explain but remove the switch and have a look.
I must say, I`ve heard of faulty switches triggering all lights but to just trigger the high level light then it must be something else. Are you sure the bulbs just haven`t gone?
edit: just read that you have the genuine Audi switch as opposed the an aftermarket one wiht the barrell that twists.
MikeMarsUK
A2OC Donor
It took me several goes before I had mine working. But this was with the green one which allows you to reset the piston as often as you want.
Someone (?probably Mike/Skipton01) told me that you could also pull out the piston on the back one to reset it if needed. I haven't tried that myself though.
chubbybrown
Member
There is a thread somewhere with the working part numbers.
My dealer said the original was on back order so got the green one and works the same as the proper bit,rest assured
My dealer said the original was on back order so got the green one and works the same as the proper bit,rest assured
Had the same issue here with brake lights staying on even though car switched off and locked lol.
Switch is a little fiddly just reseated it and it worked.
Think it got dislodged a bit when I had the brake master cylinder changed a few months ago. (Hissing problem)
I noticed the little foot the switch activates on wasn't lined up very well so bent the bracket slightly.
Fingers crossed.
Wonderful resource this site!
Switch is a little fiddly just reseated it and it worked.
Think it got dislodged a bit when I had the brake master cylinder changed a few months ago. (Hissing problem)
I noticed the little foot the switch activates on wasn't lined up very well so bent the bracket slightly.
Fingers crossed.
Wonderful resource this site!