bretti_kivi
Member
it'll be connected up to the footwell already.
- Bret
- Bret
Cruise Control question
- Thread starter 6stings
- Start date
6stings
A2OC Donor
Bret, if it is already connected, do I have the stalk connector behind the steering wheel too?
6stings
A2OC Donor
Spike, you mean you connected them to the wires that already in the related ECU pins?
I thought these pins should be empty. Since they are not, what was connected there?
Skipton01
Admin Team
There's a number of 17-pin connectors next to the engine ECU in the footwell. In my experience of fitting cruise systems, I found that pretty much all petrol engined A2s had the wiring from the white 17-pin connector to the ECU already in place.
If you split the 17-pin block, you'll see there's pins in the base, from the wiring to the ECU, but there's no corresponding socket in place, so the wiring terminates at the block.
You've 2 choices: either wire into the 17-pin connector, or remove the wires from the huge ECU plug. Either is as good as the other, but I always preferred going direct into the ECU, as it means there's one less joint in the wiring, which is a place to go wrong (as pins can corrode).
Cheers,
Michael.
If you split the 17-pin block, you'll see there's pins in the base, from the wiring to the ECU, but there's no corresponding socket in place, so the wiring terminates at the block.
You've 2 choices: either wire into the 17-pin connector, or remove the wires from the huge ECU plug. Either is as good as the other, but I always preferred going direct into the ECU, as it means there's one less joint in the wiring, which is a place to go wrong (as pins can corrode).
Cheers,
Michael.
Skipton01
Admin Team
That' the one - split the connector (it just comes apart if you rock it side to side and pull at the same time) and you'll see that there's more wires going into the connector (from the ECU) than there are coming out. There'll be 4 spaces in total, which is where you can connect in. However, as I said before, I'd just go directly into the engine ECU plug, on the pin numbers you've already quoted.
This is the only extra wiring I've ever known A2s to have, other than the wires for the heated wing mirror glass. Ordinarily, if you don't specify an option, the wiring is never installed at the factory.
Cheers,
Michael
This is the only extra wiring I've ever known A2s to have, other than the wires for the heated wing mirror glass. Ordinarily, if you don't specify an option, the wiring is never installed at the factory.
Cheers,
Michael
6stings
A2OC Donor
Michael, you are right about the connector's colour, but it has 10-pins. The 17-pins connector is Brown
OK, the White one is 10-pins, and the CC should be wired to then, as I can read on current flow diagrams (and getting a headache translating wire colour codes)
Yes, 49, 51, 52 and 55 go to T10 (white connector) and to E45 (CC stalk)
E45 - Cruise control system switch
G79 - Accelerator pedal position sender
G185 - Accelerator pedal position sender -2-
G186 - Throttle valve drive (electric power control)
G187 - Throttle valve drive angle sender -1- (electric power control)
G188 - Throttle valve drive angle sender -2- (electric power control)
J220 - Motronic control unit
J338 - Throttle valve module
T10n - 10-pin connector, black, behind steering column switch trim
T10s - 10-pin connector, white, in footwell, front left
T17 - 17-pin connector, brown, in footwell, front left
A16 - Connection (cruise control system), in dash panel wiring harness
* - Only applies to models with cruise control system
Many thanks!
OK, the White one is 10-pins, and the CC should be wired to then, as I can read on current flow diagrams (and getting a headache translating wire colour codes)
Yes, 49, 51, 52 and 55 go to T10 (white connector) and to E45 (CC stalk)
E45 - Cruise control system switch
G79 - Accelerator pedal position sender
G185 - Accelerator pedal position sender -2-
G186 - Throttle valve drive (electric power control)
G187 - Throttle valve drive angle sender -1- (electric power control)
G188 - Throttle valve drive angle sender -2- (electric power control)
J220 - Motronic control unit
J338 - Throttle valve module
T10n - 10-pin connector, black, behind steering column switch trim
T10s - 10-pin connector, white, in footwell, front left
T17 - 17-pin connector, brown, in footwell, front left
A16 - Connection (cruise control system), in dash panel wiring harness
* - Only applies to models with cruise control system
Many thanks!
Skipton01
Admin Team
Yes, sorry - it's a while since I did a cruise fit and I was speaking from memory, knowing that there was a blue, a white and a green or brown connector (I'm colour blind!), and they're all pretty much the same size and shape.
T10s is the connector in question.
You're there though if you've got that wiring diagram - should be plain sailing now.
Cheers,
Michael
T10s is the connector in question.
You're there though if you've got that wiring diagram - should be plain sailing now.
Cheers,
Michael
Skipton01
Admin Team
Darko, all you literally need to know is that there's 6 wires coming out of the cruise stalk (but 2 of them are then spliced together, pins 4 & 7, so in effect there's only 5 wires) and 4 of them need to attach to the engine ECU ultimately. The other one goes to the brake pedal switch.
How the 4 wires get to the ECU is up to you. The way you route them is up to you and whether you link into the white connector or go straight to the ECU is also up to you.
Are you making your own wiring loom up? If so, just use colours you're happy with - as a colour blind chap, I always tended to use black, white, red and blue for the 4 main wires and then a short black one for the wire to the pedal switch (as it's shorter, it's easily distinguished).
For info, the original wire colours are:
Pin2 - blue/black
Pin3 - blue/red
Pins 4&7 - white
Pin5 - black/red
Pin6 - red/green
And the wires coming from the 10-pin white connector, which are going to the ECU are:
Pin2 - blue/red
Pin3 - blue/black
Pin6 - white
Pin7 - black/red
These 4 wires can be removed entirely if you want and then just run the cable from the cruise stalk to the ECU directly.
Cheers,
Michael.
How the 4 wires get to the ECU is up to you. The way you route them is up to you and whether you link into the white connector or go straight to the ECU is also up to you.
Are you making your own wiring loom up? If so, just use colours you're happy with - as a colour blind chap, I always tended to use black, white, red and blue for the 4 main wires and then a short black one for the wire to the pedal switch (as it's shorter, it's easily distinguished).
For info, the original wire colours are:
Pin2 - blue/black
Pin3 - blue/red
Pins 4&7 - white
Pin5 - black/red
Pin6 - red/green
And the wires coming from the 10-pin white connector, which are going to the ECU are:
Pin2 - blue/red
Pin3 - blue/black
Pin6 - white
Pin7 - black/red
These 4 wires can be removed entirely if you want and then just run the cable from the cruise stalk to the ECU directly.
Cheers,
Michael.
6stings
A2OC Donor
Thank you, Michael, I don't think you are colour blind at all 
I don't have to make the loom, I got it with the A6 stalk
And I believe everything's clear now:
ECU FSI 49 - Blue/Black to T10s/3 connect A6 Stalk 2 = Blue
ECU FSI 52 - Black/Red to T10s/7 connect A6 Stalk 5 = White
ECU FSI 55 - Blue/Red to T10s/2 connect A6 Stalk 4&7 = Yellow
ECU FSI 51 - White to T10s/6 connect A6 Stalk 3 = Red
Fuse 31 connect A6 Stalk 6 = Black
I don't have to make the loom, I got it with the A6 stalk
And I believe everything's clear now:
ECU FSI 49 - Blue/Black to T10s/3 connect A6 Stalk 2 = Blue
ECU FSI 52 - Black/Red to T10s/7 connect A6 Stalk 5 = White
ECU FSI 55 - Blue/Red to T10s/2 connect A6 Stalk 4&7 = Yellow
ECU FSI 51 - White to T10s/6 connect A6 Stalk 3 = Red
Fuse 31 connect A6 Stalk 6 = Black
Skipton01
Admin Team
Oh, I am definitely colour blind. I am just used to reading the german colour codes that's all!
If that wiring loom is less than around 150cm long, it'll need to be extended. I use ones that are 180cm long as I like to leave a little slack left. I also wired directly into the ECU plug, hence you can get away with something 30cm shorter than I use.
Now you just have to beat my record time to do the install - 43 minutes start to finish!
Cheers,
Michael.
If that wiring loom is less than around 150cm long, it'll need to be extended. I use ones that are 180cm long as I like to leave a little slack left. I also wired directly into the ECU plug, hence you can get away with something 30cm shorter than I use.
Now you just have to beat my record time to do the install - 43 minutes start to finish!
Cheers,
Michael.
Skipton01
Admin Team
Ouch! I bet there's a fair bit of grazed skin too - the aluminium panels behind the dash can be quite unforgiving when you're trying to feed cables through.
Keep on persevering though - it's got to be quicker than a 1200km trip that you decided not to do before.
You'll get there and it'll feel so much nicer, knowing that you installed it all yourself.
Cheers,
Michael
Keep on persevering though - it's got to be quicker than a 1200km trip that you decided not to do before.
You'll get there and it'll feel so much nicer, knowing that you installed it all yourself.
Cheers,
Michael
6stings
A2OC Donor
You were right about that, Michael! 9 hours straight, but I did it.
Everything by the book, except that I used electric connectors with screws on all wires, even a bypass on brake switch.
Maybe I'll solder the wires in the footwell later, but since the CC works perfect, I'm closing the floor tomorrow.
Some photos, why not.
I decided to connect the CC to the T10s wires:
You never know what you can find behind the panels
Everything by the book, except that I used electric connectors with screws on all wires, even a bypass on brake switch.
Maybe I'll solder the wires in the footwell later, but since the CC works perfect, I'm closing the floor tomorrow.
Some photos, why not.
I decided to connect the CC to the T10s wires:
You never know what you can find behind the panels
