Ecu fault

I'd suggest de-, installing VCDS, downloading a fresh copy of, then reinstalling. The Bank 2 mystery could be that the label file, (where the text comes from), is corrupted, so incorrect text is being used. Probably not, but it's free.
Mac.
Had it with my portable reader rather than VCDS and I didn't have time to get the laptop and full VCDS to do a deeper dive before needing to hand car over to my other half to drive to work. Topped up battery, cleared faults, and it went away. I suspect duff voltage on my car. The comment by the original poster above that his battery is at 11.9V after some alternator activity suggests that it got very deeply discharged so even an intelligent charger might not be enough.

@bento - what voltage do you see when the engine is running? Should be >=14V if the battery and alternator are at normal function levels.
 
I'd suggest de-, installing VCDS, downloading a fresh copy of, then reinstalling. The Bank 2 mystery could be that the label file, (where the text comes from), is corrupted, so incorrect text is being used. Probably not, but it's free.
Mac.
It is not an original VCDS, an aftermarket one... so if I reinstall, I think I'll get the same if I'm correct.
 
It is not an original VCDS, an aftermarket one... so if I reinstall, I think I'll get the same if I'm correct.
Use the free version of VCDS Lite, it'll give you the correct engine fault codes.
Generic readers can mislead ...
Which engine?
Mac.
 
Unfortunately, the garage who looked at the original car was right. The car doesn’t have that actuator, so it cannot be faulty. The ECU needs reflashing with a good file, or replacing. If you google that code but but for a Polo or Lupo, you will find more information
 
Unfortunately, the garage who looked at the original car was right. The car doesn’t have that actuator, so it cannot be faulty. The ECU needs reflashing with a good file, or replacing. If you google that code but but for a Polo or Lupo, you will find more information
The dodgy data has come from a generic reader, my bet is that the reader is miss reporting the code and/or the description. As always, could be wrong.
I'd be surprised if the ECU is corrupt, they are pretty secure. Before doing anything, just scan with a VAG specific scan tool, the free download version of VCDS Lite will scan the engine controller, and report all DTCs, but will only include a description for the first DTC, and codes only for any others.
Reflashing an ECU requires the ECU on the bench, with appropriate kit.
Mac.
 
Ahh yes I just noticed, however that code is still coming from the ECU regardless, even if the message is wrong. There actually is a service bulletin about it, and the fix is to update the ECU. I guess there is some bug in the ECU that causes this code to be set, or it just becomes corrupted.
 
Ahh yes I just noticed, however that code is still coming from the ECU regardless, even if the message is wrong. There actually is a service bulletin about it, and the fix is to update the ECU. I guess there is some bug in the ECU that causes this code to be set, or it just becomes corrupted.
It'll be interesting to see what the local Audi dealer has to say, when asked to upgrade the ECU.
Have you got the details of the Service Bulletin? The date is significant, as if it falls within the original warranty, and the car was serviced by Audi, it should have been done at a service.
Mac.
 
2008, but looks to have been updated in 2010? TPI 2001317.

The way I understand it, the update would only be performed if the fault occurred, and this does seem like something that is rarely happens. It’s also not clear if they are saying “update” because this is actually a bug that is fixed by the update, or if it’s corruption. I would say the former, but it must be really strange to get in a state where the ECU generates faults for a part that does not exist in that engine.
 
Problem solved! Long story short: the board voltage was low. A bit longer: a colleague called me from the Hungarian VCDS Fb group that a few years ago he suffered from a Lupo 1.4 16v after a voltage regulator change. The car did not start and when it did, it jumped immediately into limp mode. It took him 3 weeks and in the end, a new (other brand) regulator solved the problem. So first I disconnected the generator connector. There was no charge (neither indicator lamp) but the engine ran smoothly, with no fault code! So the plan was to get a Bosch regulator. But in the meantime, I put the battery on a charger just to be on the safe side. After a few hours, the current dropped, I checked the voltage, it was 12,7, and went for a ride. And everything worked like in my dreams! I went back in time (in my head) and recognized that the battery voltage was 11,9 the day before. I knew this was low, but the car started nicely, so I didn't think it was a problem. But it was! Somehow it was low for the system and made this whole mess. A good lesson for me! So mates, in a case like this charge the battery full! :)
And thanks to everyone for the helping comments!
George
 
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