robskiA2tdi
Member
yeah that's the one I've used for T5 beforeAudi Erwin.
Buy an hour, under a tenner. You get the correct info by VIN.erWin - Login
erwin.audi.com
Mac.
Finding and preparing a new to me AMF
- Thread starter Little Dog
- Start date
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I'm waiting on a delivery so I looked for a job I could do in the kitchen, that way I can hear the doorbell. Gunk and a domestic steam cleaner gets really good results 
:
That is the final clean, I can now work without getting blathered in somebody else's black oil. Externally all sides have checked out OK except for the rear of the head where the tandem pump mounts. I discovered quite early on in this project an unusual amount of oil in the glow plugs. The conclusion at the time was an oil leak had puddled in the base of the plugs and the oil found its way past the threads as the head heated and cooled. I've found historic efforts to correct oil leaks that will have made oil leaks worse:
The green circled M6 threads for the cooling and fuel end of the tandem pump are good with lead in chamfers. The red circled M6 threads for the injector harness have been over torqued, one is stripped and the thread in the second has been pulled proud of the surface; there is no longer any lead in chamfer. That will have leaked oil badly.
The orange circled, assumed, M8 tandem pump securing screws have also been over torqued. Internal threads are pulled proud of the surface, the lead in chamfer has gone.
The harness screw holes have to be repaired and it would be wise to replace the larger tandem pump screw holes. Time to get the coiling kits out.
:That is the final clean, I can now work without getting blathered in somebody else's black oil. Externally all sides have checked out OK except for the rear of the head where the tandem pump mounts. I discovered quite early on in this project an unusual amount of oil in the glow plugs. The conclusion at the time was an oil leak had puddled in the base of the plugs and the oil found its way past the threads as the head heated and cooled. I've found historic efforts to correct oil leaks that will have made oil leaks worse:
The green circled M6 threads for the cooling and fuel end of the tandem pump are good with lead in chamfers. The red circled M6 threads for the injector harness have been over torqued, one is stripped and the thread in the second has been pulled proud of the surface; there is no longer any lead in chamfer. That will have leaked oil badly.
The orange circled, assumed, M8 tandem pump securing screws have also been over torqued. Internal threads are pulled proud of the surface, the lead in chamfer has gone.
The harness screw holes have to be repaired and it would be wise to replace the larger tandem pump screw holes. Time to get the coiling kits out.
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Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Good news, there is always a risk with coiling, the M6 threads coiled well. The M8 threads didn't require a coil, when I ran a tap down to check the thread pitch it didn't cut any aluminium. I concluded any damage was in the top thread or two and the remainder are good. I put a chamfer back in there, job done. Just a historic ding to check out; will it interfere with sealing the tandem pump?
No. it is well clear of the sealing ridges on the crush washer. Just need to flatten it with a Swiss file.
Interestingly it would have caused the last owner problems, the ding was where the tooth pick is:
However he wouldn't have noticed; both seals are shot, the pump would have been leaking diesel and oil.
Still no delivery
No. it is well clear of the sealing ridges on the crush washer. Just need to flatten it with a Swiss file.
Interestingly it would have caused the last owner problems, the ding was where the tooth pick is:
However he wouldn't have noticed; both seals are shot, the pump would have been leaking diesel and oil.
Still no delivery
Joga
A2OC Donor
Great pictures especially the one with the black gasket at the head.Good news, there is always a risk with coiling, the M6 threads coiled well. The M8 threads didn't require a coil, when I ran a tap down to check the thread pitch it didn't cut any aluminium. I concluded any damage was in the top thread or two and the remainder are good. I put a chamfer back in there, job done. Just a historic ding to check out; will it interfere with sealing the tandem pump?
View attachment 118205
No. it is well clear of the sealing ridges on the crush washer. Just need to flatten it with a Swiss file.
View attachment 118206
Interestingly it would have caused the last owner problems, the ding was where the tooth pick is:
View attachment 118207
However he wouldn't have noticed; both seals are shot, the pump would have been leaking diesel and oil.
Still no delivery
I am curious to know which head ports/holes are for fuel delivery to the injectors from the pump (and what are the other holes for?). Do you know?
Vorsprung durch Technik
A2OC Donor
Great thread, wish there were more of these type of threads on here.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Haven’t checked it out yet but need to for what I will be doing next. Referring to black gasket, top right big circular hole, vac pump +ve pressure to crank case. Small central hole, pump lubricating oil feed. Bottom left, two medium holes, diesel feed and return. I think?
My parcel arrived
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Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Not touched the A2 today but noticed something interesting. Numbers in the inlet and exhaust ports:
Any idea what they may be for? ID numbers for casting cores?
Any idea what they may be for? ID numbers for casting cores?
kp 115
A2OC Donor
Maybe , but strange their consecutive as well
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Tedious but necessary work. Fasteners. the manual recommends the majority are renewed but consistent with my advice to others 10.9 grade and less screws will be reused. That will be a considerable saving on the cost of this project as I have only had to buy stretch and more specialist 12.9 high stress fasteners. I have bought new:
Head stretch bolts
Cam, rckershaft and injector clamp stretch bolts
Flywheel retaining screws
Crank timing belt sprocket bolt
The remainder will be reused but not in the state they are currently in. Step 1 sort by colour, clear, black and yellow passivate:
Head stretch bolts
Cam, rckershaft and injector clamp stretch bolts
Flywheel retaining screws
Crank timing belt sprocket bolt
The remainder will be reused but not in the state they are currently in. Step 1 sort by colour, clear, black and yellow passivate:
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Next step is to clean the fasteners and remove the plating:
Simmer in caustic soda:
Dirt removed true colour can be seen (only one item in yellow passivate) also it can be seen if an item is too far gone (two items went in the scrap bin):
Remove plating by immersing in diluted brick acid:
When the fizzing stops the plating has gone:
Some look slightly over cooked and have turned black (I put them to one side while I had lunch) zinc may not stick to the black items.
There is also a fair amount of flash rusting going on, that is OK the next step is rust conversion.
Simmer in caustic soda:
Dirt removed true colour can be seen (only one item in yellow passivate) also it can be seen if an item is too far gone (two items went in the scrap bin):
Remove plating by immersing in diluted brick acid:
When the fizzing stops the plating has gone:
Some look slightly over cooked and have turned black (I put them to one side while I had lunch) zinc may not stick to the black items.
There is also a fair amount of flash rusting going on, that is OK the next step is rust conversion.
greywolfhound
Member
You’re doing a grand job all round Phil I’m impressed at the way you’ve gone about the whole process …keep it up,..
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Been preparing my rust conversion tank. Get a good sized clean tank, that is a clean one:
Get a good sized sacrificial anode, they need to be bigger than the combined items being rust converted also if it needs to be wedged in it can't fall over and cause a short circuit:
Put in two scoops of cheap washing powder. the expensive stuff doesn't work for some reason:
Almost fill with water and that is ready to go tomorrow:
Get a good sized sacrificial anode, they need to be bigger than the combined items being rust converted also if it needs to be wedged in it can't fall over and cause a short circuit:
Put in two scoops of cheap washing powder. the expensive stuff doesn't work for some reason:
Almost fill with water and that is ready to go tomorrow:
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I’m not sure how it works but tomorrow I will put the fasteners opposite the sacrificial in the tank and switch on 12v. Ferrous oxide is converted to iron powder. It washes off, rust gone.
Edit amasing what you find out you don’t know when you are asked a question. I’m still not 100% on this. Rust is ferric oxide Fe2O3, I think it is converted a black powder called ferrous oxide FeO. The bubbles that are produced, that ping rust and paint off the good steel, are the missing O. Any Chemists following able to explain?
Edit2 Didn’t get a chance to move anything on yesterday. A rat has chewed its way into my lockup so I’ve putting bait and traps down. Did find this though https://antique-engines.com/electro...the rust turns,the metal object being cleaned.
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Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I still haven't got anything into rust conversion. I've been rat hunting, I want to catch it before it starts eating the car.
While sorting components for rust conversion I noticed two that had not flash rusted:
This is one for the A2 boffins, where do they go on the engine? They are M8 * 46, 12 point, flanged, do not rust, are not magnetic and are marked A1. I think they are stainless but they are not the type of thing some owners buy of eBay to substitute mild steel bolts. I've had a look on 7Zap and turbo to exhaust manifold is a possibility. Why stainless?
While sorting components for rust conversion I noticed two that had not flash rusted:
This is one for the A2 boffins, where do they go on the engine? They are M8 * 46, 12 point, flanged, do not rust, are not magnetic and are marked A1. I think they are stainless but they are not the type of thing some owners buy of eBay to substitute mild steel bolts. I've had a look on 7Zap and turbo to exhaust manifold is a possibility. Why stainless?
Howey
Member
Don't these secure the turbo to the manifold?
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
I think perhaps they do but I’ve never come across stainless screws from the factory before.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Time to get the rust conversion going, I've gone for black first because I have a major problem at the moment with flash rusting. Could be the recent rain and soggy ground increasing humidity? Several components will be painted, I can do that quicker than plating, also this is about the limit for one load:
I included this item with crusted rust to illustrate the effectiveness of this method:
They need hanging so they don't fall to the bottom of the tank and also so they are clear of the bottom of the tank. Components close to the bottom of the tank are quickly ruined.
Hang them in the tank, at this point I always check the polarity. Get it wrong and the components disintegrate and the brake disc comes out rust free:
Switch on, it will take 12 to 24 hours to remove the rust.
The process is complete when there is two tone brown and white foam on the surface.
I included this item with crusted rust to illustrate the effectiveness of this method:
They need hanging so they don't fall to the bottom of the tank and also so they are clear of the bottom of the tank. Components close to the bottom of the tank are quickly ruined.
Hang them in the tank, at this point I always check the polarity. Get it wrong and the components disintegrate and the brake disc comes out rust free:
Switch on, it will take 12 to 24 hours to remove the rust.
The process is complete when there is two tone brown and white foam on the surface.
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Little Dog
A2OC Donor
The conversion process stubbornly refused to get started. The soap I put in had probably settled out since I set up the tank. Switch off, one more scoop of soap and stir. Switch on again and instant bubbles:
A final check before calling it a day and the two tone foam is almost there. The rust will be gone and the components ready to work on tomorrow:
A final check before calling it a day and the two tone foam is almost there. The rust will be gone and the components ready to work on tomorrow: