FSI issues

@9ballpaul
What symptoms have you got, and has it been scanned, (preferably with VCDS, and the new .lbl file)?
Mac.
its been an issue a long time....symptoms were the diesel sound at start up, poor performance...

not sure what this .lbl file is??

some of the VCDS logs from different scans:

2 Faults Found:
16788 - EGR System
P0404 - 35-00 - Range / Performance
17439 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316)
P1031 - 35-00 - Setpoint Not Reached
Readiness: 0010 0001

16788 - EGR System
P0404 - 35-00 - Range / Performance
17439 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316)
P1031 - 35-00 - Setpoint Not Reached

2 Faults Found:
17439 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316)
P1031 - 35-00 - Setpoint Not Reached
17850 - Potentiometer for EGR (G212)
P1442 - 35-00 - Signal too High
Readiness: 0010 0001

I think I will start to strip it down tomorrow, last time i cleaned the throttle body I unplugged the EGR to clean the contacts in the hope that it was a very simple issue and managed to break the plug/socket off. I'll take it out try to repair that and have a look over it all.
 
its been an issue a long time....symptoms were the diesel sound at start up, poor performance...

not sure what this .lbl file is??

some of the VCDS logs from different scans:

2 Faults Found:
16788 - EGR System
P0404 - 35-00 - Range / Performance
17439 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316)
P1031 - 35-00 - Setpoint Not Reached
Readiness: 0010 0001

16788 - EGR System
P0404 - 35-00 - Range / Performance
17439 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316)
P1031 - 35-00 - Setpoint Not Reached

2 Faults Found:
17439 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (N316)
P1031 - 35-00 - Setpoint Not Reached
17850 - Potentiometer for EGR (G212)
P1442 - 35-00 - Signal too High
Readiness: 0010 0001

I think I will start to strip it down tomorrow, last time i cleaned the throttle body I unplugged the EGR to clean the contacts in the hope that it was a very simple issue and managed to break the plug/socket off. I'll take it out try to repair that and have a look over it all.
Good Evening Paul(?),

Please don't take this the wrong way but I feel you are in danger of cluttering up Steve's ProBoost thread with posts about your problems.

Respectfully suggest you post your own fault thread, incorporate your fault posts above and then delete them from from here.

Out of interest your VCDS output is screaming out to me the input manifold flaps are seized with carbon build up, most likely accompanied by a fractured vacuum actuator arm, you will see when you strip it down.

I will delete this post when/if you make your own fault thread to keep things tidy.

Andy
 
Good Evening Paul(?),

Please don't take this the wrong way but I feel you are in danger of cluttering up Steve's ProBoost thread with posts about your problems.

Respectfully suggest you post your own fault thread, incorporate your fault posts above and then delete them from from here.

Out of interest your VCDS output is screaming out to me the input manifold flaps are seized with carbon build up, most likely accompanied by a fractured vacuum actuator arm, you will see when you strip it down.

I will delete this post when/if you make your own fault thread to keep things tidy.

Andy

I've moved all the swerving posts to this new thread. Please don't completely delete your post Andy, the bit about the flaps and actuator is very relevant.
 
Looking at the location, I'd suggest approaching them at B&F Autos in West Hounslow. Close to the Tube and very good indeed on all matters A2.

Don't charge like a "wounded Rhino" either.

North London is not far from them.
 
pencil me in for one, in the mean-time I think i might have to strip it down
The ProBoost ECU assumes that the flaps are in the down, deactivated, position, inlet fully open.
The scan results, that relate to the Intake Manifold Tuning Valve, (aka the flaps), hint that this may not be the case.
ProBoost is not a software work around that "solves" a mechanical failure.
The EGR looks in need of attention too.
You are skating on very thin ice, as, (only a guess), you may have the EML on, if so, you won't be aware of any further engine faults, which could destroy your engine. This would be a great pity.
Mac.
 
The ProBoost ECU assumes that the flaps are in the down, deactivated, position, inlet fully open.
The scan results, that relate to the Intake Manifold Tuning Valve, (aka the flaps), hint that this may not be the case.
ProBoost is not a software work around that "solves" a mechanical failure.
The EGR looks in need of attention too.
You are skating on very thin ice, as, (only a guess), you may have the EML on, if so, you won't be aware of any further engine faults, which could destroy your engine. This would be a great pity.
Mac.
Good Afternoon Mac,

I assumed as Paul was originally enquiring with Steve about a possible ProBoost purchase, Paul's FSI is standard without ProBoost.

Yes, the N316 code will trigger the EML after failing (it seems) 3 start up checkouts, unless of course the EML illumination has been tampered with.

Andy
 
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Good Afternoon Mac,

I assumed as Paul was originally enquiring with Steve about a possible ProBoost purchase, Paul's FSI is standard without ProBoost.

Yes, the N316 code will trigger the EML after failing (it seems) 3 start up checkouts, unless of course the EML illumination has been tapered with.

Andy
I understood that the car is not ProBoost, but, if, as the scan hints at, the EML is on, then @9ballpaul would not be aware of any subsequent engine related faults.
Mac.
 
The car is currently off the road on axle stands, I've stripped the upper manifold parts. I only get a couple of hours in a week if I'm lucky to work on things so this will be drawn out for a few weeks till its sorted. Next thing to do is undo the breather pipe from below and the rest of the manifold bolts and see where I am from there.
without this group I would probably of set fire to the car in a rage years ago so thanks all....
 
The car is currently off the road on axle stands, I've stripped the upper manifold parts. I only get a couple of hours in a week if I'm lucky to work on things so this will be drawn out for a few weeks till its sorted. Next thing to do is undo the breather pipe from below and the rest of the manifold bolts and see where I am from there.
without this group I would probably of set fire to the car in a rage years ago so thanks all....
Worth a suck it and see test.
Post in thread 'Purchased a 1.6 FSI' https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/purchased-a-1-6-fsi.53903/post-542754
Mac.
 
The car is currently off the road on axle stands, I've stripped the upper manifold parts. I only get a couple of hours in a week if I'm lucky to work on things so this will be drawn out for a few weeks till its sorted. Next thing to do is undo the breather pipe from below and the rest of the manifold bolts and see where I am from there.
without this group I would probably of set fire to the car in a rage years ago so thanks all....
well, finally put it all back together this weekend after going as far as cleaning the valve tops, injectors, repairing broken plug on EGR and the silly plastic actuator arm repair. but now it wont start. I have scanned with VCDS block 140 says I have 3.8bar actual pressure but it wont fire up. its been lying about a few months but surely the fuel is still OK. I have searched a few threads on here such as 'FSI fuel rail pressure', 'looking for help / high pressure fuel...' and looked through the design and fuction manual SSP_253 FSI_Engine but i'm a bit stuck on what to try next or i'm just avoiding taking bits apart again... fuses are fine, asuming the spark is there, I guess the next thing to do is remove and inspect the HPFP
 
well, finally put it all back together this weekend after going as far as cleaning the valve tops, injectors, repairing broken plug on EGR and the silly plastic actuator arm repair. but now it wont start. I have scanned with VCDS block 140 says I have 3.8bar actual pressure but it wont fire up. its been lying about a few months but surely the fuel is still OK. I have searched a few threads on here such as 'FSI fuel rail pressure', 'looking for help / high pressure fuel...' and looked through the design and fuction manual SSP_253 FSI_Engine but i'm a bit stuck on what to try next or i'm just avoiding taking bits apart again... fuses are fine, asuming the spark is there, I guess the next thing to do is remove and inspect the HPFP
Can take a while to start if the hpfp has been drained, my manifold was off for a while and when I put it all back together it didn’t want to start, then after cranking it a bit it started but sounded absolutely awful, missing all over the place, and then finally sorted itself out, sounded beautiful and has been fine ever since.
I attributed this to it having to prime the hpfp. (It didn’t happen when I had the manifold off and on again in the same 24 hours, but the first time round the fuel rail was disconnected for several days or weeks)
 
I have turned it over a dozen times at least and it gets no nearer to starting up at all, i'm assuming it does need the additional pressure from the HPFP to deliver the fuel for the injectors whilst turning over, the 3.8bar at the rail is hardly going to be enough. from my knowledge there is nothing else that can be measured with VCDS and I don't seem to have any fuel leaking ( cant tell by smell anyway) so maybe an issue with the high pressure pump
 
I have turned it over a dozen times at least and it gets no nearer to starting up at all, i'm assuming it does need the additional pressure from the HPFP to deliver the fuel for the injectors whilst turning over, the 3.8bar at the rail is hardly going to be enough. from my knowledge there is nothing else that can be measured with VCDS and I don't seem to have any fuel leaking ( cant tell by smell anyway) so maybe an issue with the high pressure pump
3.8 Bar is the output of the electric pump, in the tank, and is correct. The HPFP doesn't do much until the engine fires, and speeds up.
Have you scanned the engine? Does the rev counter show the engine cranking, 300 rpm or so?
Mac.
 
3.8 Bar is the output of the electric pump, in the tank, and is correct. The HPFP doesn't do much until the engine fires, and speeds up.
Have you scanned the engine? Does the rev counter show the engine cranking, 300 rpm or so?
Mac.
I thought it was at the weekend but just checked now and no movement at all on the needle?
 
so, I replaced the crankcase sensor but still no difference. rev needle doesn't move, it turns a couple of times but wont start :( Any ideas what else?
I'm thinking to get rid of it now, maybe someone on here wants a project, i just cant give it the time it needs to sort it out
 
What crank sensor did you fit, genuine VAG, or aftermarket?
Check connector, is the cable in good condition, are the pins clean and aligned?
You need to be sure it is actually connected, as in continuity of each cable, the ECU.
Edit: I notice you say "... turns a couple of times..."
Does it really spin, or does it just about turn over as in the batter is very nearly flat?
Log Engine Group 001, you'll see engine speed, from the ECU. Is the engine speed registering, as you crank the engine?
Mac.
 
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