gear adjust made it worse?

From what the garage showed me it is no 2 that gives up the ghost. Audi only do the whole tower as one (about £80ish)......this is what I was told anyway.
I had a look at the worn part and it was totally goosed.....I always ask to see parts that have been changed for my own piece of mind.


VW sell the parts separate, i ordered 5 which is an oil seal and the bearing which was 2. about £5 each i think. can collect from VW on friday (not a common stocked item)

Wondering what grease to apply to it, as i dont want to buy the extremely expensive tube from VW, might just ask for a finger full in a glove ect from the work shop ;)
 
VW sell the parts separate, i ordered 5 which is an oil seal and the bearing which was 2. about £5 each i think. can collect from VW on friday (not a common stocked item)

Wondering what grease to apply to it, as i dont want to buy the extremely expensive tube from VW, might just ask for a finger full in a glove ect from the work shop ;)

I just spat my coffee out when I read the last bit of the quote above, its a brave man that goes into a garage workshop and asks for a 'finger full in a glove........'
 
So

To conclude. i ordered the parts from VW and it came to about £9 for the bearing and oil seal above it.

i'll upload pictures with a little how to once i can upload pics off my phone later in the week.

BUT it seems to have sorted it, touch wood! been driven about 40 miles and its not had the issue so fingers crossed its sorted it.

the bearing is ment to be lubed by the grease from the factory as its never gonna see splash lube looking at it. but my bearing was rusty and nasty and not very smooth when compared to the new one.

like i say, fingers crossed! stand by for the HOW TO ;)

Cheers

Andy
 
Sounds like a cheap and relativelt easy fix and I look forward to your tutorial with pics as I would like to perform the same operation to my A2.. :)
 
Damn you, I forked out nigh on £200 for this fix, but fortunately the garage messed up and the first lot of bearings failed within a month. The key is making sure that you put the correct lube on the bearings and shaft apparently. Audi did a brilliant job in fairness, done under warranty but then re charged the garage.
I was told originally that you could get the bearings cheap, but when the garage went to buy them off audi they were told that they only came as the whole part....whilst they knew that VW have the same bearings, they didn't want to risk it.
Keep us posted Andy.
Cheers
Andy
 
So,

Start off by lifting off your bonnet and put the car in neutrual

look down on the right hand side (when looking into the engine bay) and you'll see your shifter tower and shifter weight and cables.

remove the small cross brace above the shifter tower to gain better access, one nut, one bolt.

remove the rain cup also for access, one bolt.

release the shifter cables from there spring style clamps.

you'll see the tower in held in place by two spline drive bolts, but to gain access i had to remove the shifter weight (this probably wont be needed if you have hex head bolts)

the shifter weight in held in place by one nut and a tight fit on a spline shaft, i wiggled for ages but in the end used a puller to get it off.

NUlumWEh.jpg



once thats out the way, removing the two bolts is easy but be careful not to strip them.

the shifter now is now free to be removed, but its stuck down by sealant and takes alot of prying and levering to break free!

c6LRc4kh.jpg


once free carefully lift it out and cover the hole left behind.

take this inside and clean it up so its nicer to handle, remove the central column (mine came away while remove the shifter tower so be careful) i then removed the shift slider arm (for lack of a better term) to get better access. Look how the column is orientated, for easy refitment!

rh9k1j5h.jpg


now flip it upside down and you should see this bearing looking rather dry and tired

GuJDyKdh.jpg


this is the part you want to try and press out.

you need to remove the oil seal on top first, at which point you will notice the lip that gets in the way of this being an easy job!

you need to grind two slots out of that so you can get a drift in on the bearing. i used a peice of flat bar.

OzxpfDQh.jpg


when pressing this out be sure to use a socket on the underside to take the strain, i've read about that whole middle part snapping off! so take care here.



once the bearing is down about 5mm you can slip a washer down through the slots and ontop of the bearing, which will then let you use another socket to press it out. USE THE TWO SOCKET method!

the washer and bearing mix looks like this (thats one of those washers you find in drum brake fitting kits but anything that fits will do)

s0E5GAQh.jpg


then its a simple task of pressing the new bearing back in carefully as its not very study. i then used a moly CV grease in here, not the expensive VW grease... this may be wrong or right but i thought a wet grease was better then a graphite grease maybe? maybe not?
either way i didnt want to buy the tube of expensive grease for a once use thing :p
that was in there from the factory and it had completely dissapeared but it was 140k miles old!

the oil seal will press in by hand.

use sealant on the shifter tower to gearbox joint.

reset the shifter cables.

test for all gears and test drive and hope this £9 fix works! Audi dont seem to sell the bearing and seal separately i found, but VW do....

hope this helps!
 
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