Heated seats questions

2work said:
Hi Ed,

Yes it does look to do that as per the aftermarket installation document you found. Having retrofitted seat heating a few times now I can confirm that there is only 4 feed/supplies required.

Not in pin order:
1. Pre-ignition live - terminal 30
2. Ignition live - terminal 15
3. Ground - terminal 31
4. Button illumination - 58b

I can only assume the picture guide is using Pin #2 at the light switch connector as a source for a terminal 15 feed. I’d have to check the EWD to confirm though.

Mac’s helpful screenshots above has all the answers too.

Kind regards,

Tom
Click to expand...


The mk4 golf which I have wired before also uses this setup as you have described I think the wiring diagrams attached earlier are missing line 8 and 7 which I think shows the 30 connection.
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Last edited:
Edwrai said:
I can only see 58b and 15a in those wiring diagrams I can’t see terminal 30


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Click to expand...
Evening Ed,

I’ve just consulted the EWD and I think you’re right Sir. No mention of terminal 30 so wondering why I have this in my head.

I’ll go through my own documentation now to understand why I believe a pre-ignition feed is required.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Hi again Ed,

This Kufatec aftermarket installation guide is where I got the Terminal 30 supply from and is what I followed during the EUD retrofit. Its pretty much the same as the drawing you added earlier.

Hope this solves your current (pun intended) conundrum.

Kind regards,

Tom
 

Attachments

  • EN Cable set Seat heating with seat regulation and Memory Audi VW Seat-12.pdf
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2work said:
Evening Ed,

I’ve just consulted the EWD and I think you’re right Sir. No mention of terminal 30 so wondering why I have this in my head.

I’ll go through my own documentation now to understand why I believe a pre-ignition feed is required.

Kind regards,

Tom
Click to expand...

I believe you are correct looking at the mk4 golf wiring and how my loop has been wired, my loom is the same as the golf mk4 except that pin 5 and 4 are bridged to go to switched live.


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Edwrai said:
I believe you are correct looking at the mk4 golf wiring and how my loop has been wired, my loom is the same as the golf mk4 except that pin 5 and 4 are bridged to go to switched live.


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Click to expand...
Brilliant,

Think we have got there. I personally wouldn't bridge the 2 live feeds unless an appropriate gauge wire was used. 2 separate feeds (whether that be 1x term 30 and 1x term 15 or 2x term 15) which are fused would be a better solution which is how I've done it in the past.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Good Evening,

Just a comment I do not know if it is helpful. In Mac's Audi wiring extract the two rectangular boxes containing 7 and 8 both link back to fuse 13. The other side of fuse 13 is linked to "Screw connection -1- (30), on relay plate".

Andy
 
Andrew said:
Good Evening,

Just a comment I do not know if it is helpful. In Mac's Audi wiring extract the two rectangular boxes containing 7 and 8 both link back to fuse 13. The other side of fuse 13 is linked to "Screw connection -1- (30), on relay plate".

Andy
Click to expand...

I thought this was the case thank you.


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So to go back to the start I have everything setup on a bench to test, we have confirmed that the wiring is correct and I have checked what I have and I matches, non of my switches output 12v on to the seats I have 4 switches from 2 different climate panels and non seem to work which is either that they are broken or one of the following as far as I can work out.

1. Voltage too low, I charged battery to 12.7 still the same.

2. All 4 switches are broken

3. The heated seat elements are both broken and the switches will not output without a circuit to output to.

I don’t think all 4 of my switches are broken but of course this is possible, number option 1 has been discounted as others with heated seats can turn them on and feel them on ignition. So really the logical conclusion is number 3 but I don’t know if this is the case and I can’t test for it, does anyone have any insight?


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PlasticMac said:
I think, lots of research, and some resistance measuring from Tom ( @2work ) the thermistor should be 10k ntc.
I am waiting on my upholstery man, so can't be sure. .
Mac
Click to expand...

Thanks Mac, this is the value of the temperature sensor in the seats themselves I’m guessing, I will check the resistance of the temperature sensor now I have the wiring diagram.


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I’ve got a fully extracted OEM loom the diagram is pretty good

Connector at climate end
Fuse 13 pin 4 permanent live red cable both run to fuse panel where they join in to a single cable
The live is taken from the bundle just below the fuse panel

Fuse 38 switched live climate fuse pin 6 blue with black stripe . This was joined mid loom. There are other locations this can be taken from

Pin 1 light blue both run to headlight switch
Pin 6 ground these run to the seat plug and have connections to connect out in the A plillar on the left and right side

Pins 2 and 3 go to to the seat connectors.

Some pics
IMG_8218.jpeg



IMG_8217.jpeg
IMG_8216.jpeg
IMG_8215.jpeg
 
IMG_8219.jpeg

Full pic of the OEM loom. This has all the ground connections on the passenger side this was how it was when it was extracted it , this came from an early A2 . Looking at the plug at the climate end the ground cable runs between the 2 connectors approximately 30 cm as you can see it’s crimped in the previous pics

I installed a loom with the dash out as I was doing a double din upgrade. That was how it comes from factory . The loom runs over where the passenger dash airbag is in the cable tray down the sides ground connecting in the passenger A Pilar . Driver side following the main loom over to the fuse panel then down the side to the driver seat. I had some donor pins and cables for the fuse panel so they could just slot in for permanent live fuse 13 and add a fuse

Switched live fuse 38 there are a few options for connecting in

Headlight switch to light up the switches when the lights come on
 
Found the issue, broken wires on bolsters on both sides, can’t solder this as the element is carbon, so I cut up a connector to create a tiny crimp and crimped one of them back together this means I have one side that should now work, I’ll test tomorrow again on the side I’ve repaired. Hopefully should work.. we will see

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This is the other one looks like it might have been arcing

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