Step 5.
Form the flare.
Don't forget to put the union the correct way; yes I've got it wrong many times. The pipe goes in long:
At this point the second half of the die would be fitted so the pipe can still move, just imagine it is. Then the depth of pipe in the die is set by fully screwing in the depth end of the former:
Edit 240222, when you form the flare you may find that the DIN flat is not as well formed as it should be. This is something I have noticed since preparing this guidance. I think the problem is caused by these tools being designed for steel pipe. I think Kunifer either deforms differently or the wall thickness is different to steel. I do tests where the depth is not fully set and measure the gap between the setting tool and die with a feeler gauge. Once I have the perfect flare I note the gauge thickness and use it to set the gap between the die and setting tool for future flares. I now do this for every new roll of pipe.
The die halves are now fully tightened, just imagine they are. The former is then lubricated with "special punch grease"; anything that is brake fluid compatibe and does not degrade rubber will do. I use Castrol red rubber grease but I've also found that it is only really required for steel pipes: The former is screwed to a stop and the flare is formed:
Let's see what we get:
Considering I've not flared one for a while with the hand tool I'm pleased with that. The pipe where clamped is unmarked, I have the DIN flat back to the flare and the convex front is there.
All you need to do this is:
Also a compressor or canned compressed air. It is surprising how much muck blows out. If not fitting immediately seal ends with masking tape.