iPad in place of music system.

kkul_1

Member
United-Kingdom
So recently, I have been working on an idea to have iPad as a music system etc.

While performing my research I came across this amp with inbuilt Bluetooth system.


Very interesting to see if the speakers in my A2 be connected to it. My system consists of a twitter and speakers in all four doors.

So the questions.
1. Can this be theoretically achieved?
2. Can I still have twitter and speakers working providing an appropriate frequency signals to each.
3. How does the system currently process and spreads the signal to each channel.

I don’t particularly see a challenge of fitting an iPad mini in place of the system. Being an I phone & iPad pair. I can certainly make use of an iPad to receive and make calls.

Look forward to hearing everyone’s thoughts

Kanad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I think go for it.

Your questions are too technical for me, I try to steer clear of anything with wires.
Good luck!

I did retro fit a Bose system in my TDI. Transplanted the whole lot from a parts car.

20230509_142356.jpg

Can't say I enjoyed a single bit of the retrofit.

Edit
PM sent to @kkul_1 with a link to the workshop manuals
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So recently, I have been working on an idea to have iPad as a music system etc.

While performing my research I came across this amp with inbuilt Bluetooth system.


Very interesting to see if the speakers in my A2 be connected to it. My system consists of a twitter and speakers in all four doors.

So the questions.
1. Can this be theoretically achieved?
2. Can I still have twitter and speakers working providing an appropriate frequency signals to each.
3. How does the system currently process and spreads the signal to each channel.

I don’t particularly see a challenge of fitting an iPad mini in place of the system. Being an I phone & iPad pair. I can certainly make use of an iPad to receive and make calls.

Look forward to hearing everyone’s thoughts

Kanad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The rear speakers are driven by an amp in the rear. You'd need to run a pair of speaker cables from the new amp to them. Depending on where you locate the new amp, you'll probably end up running new cables to each speaker.
Edit: The original Audi radio can provide 4 channels, (left and right, front and rear), line/phono outputs to the new amp.
To get significant sound improvement, I think you'd need to fit better quality speaker drivers all round.
Mac.
 
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I have made large enhancements to my audio system, as shown in this post
https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...-and-idiosyncrasies-head-unit-speakers.52601/

I also have been thinking about a landscape oriented ipad mini, mounted pretty much where the main vents are above the stereo controls. I am there technically (my iphone operates in the same manner as an ipad would), however I have not yet made the leap nor tuned the installation for this type of solution on a permanent basis.

Some key elements to think about, in answer to the questions you asked.

a) There needs to be a reliable and quality way to get the audio signal from the ipad. This needs to be a line-out, which can be achieved with a 'lightning to line-out' cable or adapter. Charging of the ipad would also need to be done via this port, so a dual purpose adpater is required (my phone has a 'lightning to line-out' cable, and charging is done via a magsafe charger, so easier than an ipad, but the audio is sorted in this manner).

b) You could then take this line out directly to an amplifier, however the only controls you would have would be volume (and any other app based controls on your ipad), and it would only be 1 channel (no front/rear split etc).

c) Really, for a lot of reasons, the signal needs to go to some sort of pre-amp, to allow control of volume, tone, fader, balance etc etc. Imagine trying to adjust volume of a phone call or music or sat-nav using just the ipad controls, when driving.
A large knob is the way to go!
There are solutions for such a bit of kit e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196099595577
but they are not really ideal. I think the best solution is to use a normal car stereo head unit for this (including a large knob), which will allow you to manage the signal, split it into front/rear, and perhaps attach bluetooth/other sources etc (if not already in the headunit).
You just need to select a headunit (or route) where you can get the line-level from the 'lightning line-out' into the head-unit. Many have RCA plug line-in connectors on the rear, or you can use the external CD player line-in connections, as I have done.
An AUX-in on the headunit will do this also, or in my case, AUX-in on the bluetooth adapter. The 3.5mm 'lightning to line-out' cable plugged straight into the AUX-in on my Connects2.

d) the audio will then come out of the headunit either as low level (to another amp) or speaker level, as you determine. I have used the original Audi Concert 1, but taken the low level output and sent to to the speakers via a nice fat amplifier. This is all just cabling and connections, so it is up to you.
If you just use the headunit as is, then all cabling and the second amp etc will just work. This is the easiest solution.

e) the speakers in the A2 are all standard (assuming you are not starting with BOSE). Therefore, you can use the cables, connectors and speakers as they exist. I obtained male connectors for my amplifer speaker-out cables, and then connected them to the existing speaker connectors, so the speaker wiring looms remain factory.
Indeed, the rear speakers will likely be powered by a small amp in the RHD drivers footwell. It is easier to take this amp out of the set-up (if you use a large amp, as in your orignal post - Bluetooth did not appear to be part of that amp?????). You will just need to pick up the speaker out cables at this location (or place your amp in this area, as I have done).

f)The tweeters are fed as satellites of the midrange speakers, so if you feed the door speakers, you will automatically pick up the tweeters. Note, the main speakers show 3 ohm on the labels, but the actual speaker has 4 ohm on it.

Therefore, the easiest way to sort this is obtain an approriate cable, with the line-out connected to the line-in of an exisiting head-unit, but that is also the least tidy.

I do like the idea of having an ipad, with a large screen, and having the 'calls shared' from my iphone, which would take away the need for bluetooth (however, I would want to check the mic pickup quality in that scenario).

My other car (alas, not an A2) has its own large screen and apps such as Google maps, spotify etc, so I can control everything with a jab of my finger.

This guy has the sort of solution I think we are working towards.....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJ5Fi0GiHUQ

Hopefully that helps you move forward.

Matt
 
no. the amps inside are digital, class D / G / H rather than A or AB. It's about efficiency. PWM is the keyword.
the rest? use a BT DSP amp and be done with it, will be much easier and you can do a complete digital chain through to the speakers.
 
the class ABs in the A2 pull around 700W for 350W output; the Class D in the Superb pulls around 1800W for 1600W out. Efficiency 90% vs 50% is a big deal in car audio. The new stuff actually sounds OK, too.
 
Why is it called a "Digital Amplifier" when it has analogue inputs, and an analogue output, (to the speakers)?
Mac
The inputs and outputs are indeed analogue. However, upon entering the amp, the low-level analogue input is converted into a signal based on varying pulse width. This pulsed signal is then scaled in the vertical before being converted back into a larger version of the original analogue signal. This larger output signal is, of course, capable of driving speakers.
So, although inputs and outputs are analogue, the internal workings of the amplifier are ‘digital’ (though in a distinctly different format to the PCM held on CDs, etc).

Cheers,

Tom
 
The amp in the Chorus/Concert, and the A2 rear amp are barely in double figures for output power.
It does seem, to me, perverse to take an analogue signal, convert it to digital, amplify it, then convert it back to analogue.
It would take a lot to convince me that the technical advantage of a digital amp v analogue would be detectable in the A2 cabin environment.
Given the origin of the Audi name, (Horch = hearing, became Audi[o] as in sound), it is, however, a suitable subject for debate here.
Mac
 
It does seem, to me, perverse to take an analogue signal, convert it to digital, amplify it, then convert it back to analogue.
In general, I agree with you, Mac. Moving audio signals between 'domains' should be kept to a minimum. Class D amps have their perks (efficiency!), but that doesn't mean I'm about to drive my living room speakers with one.
 
...I'm an old skool Class A man myself, although I would be surprised if I would really notice the difference in the car. Except my Sub, which is D, and fine with it as all it does is thump.

Word of experience, double check the polarity for speakers. I got my fronts wrong for a while, and just thought the standard speakers were rubbish. During the (probably unecessary) replacement with some Infinity Reference series, I noted my error. Sounds much better now though (and probably would have before!!!).

Colourblindness makes some of these tasks a bit more tricky than they should be.......(well, that's my excuse anyway).
 
Hello Everyone,
Thanks for the input. Although rather than the amp linked, I meant to provide a previous version of the following amp. Which has inbuilt Bluetooth which will acquire the signals from an iPad play through the system via amplifier

for a reference I was looking at the following YouTube videos that demonstrates what I was thinking of:

This is being done in older cars where there is an absence of a music system or have no bluetooth capability. My thought was to acquire KAC M 1824BT and replicate by connecting phone/ iPad via bluetooth.

Kanad
 
Yep, that works. Never seen such a device, but it is a good idea, and indeed, it takes out the requirement for any type of headunit or pre-amp and gives you bluetooth capability. I like the idea of a wired input also. Only thing to check is the mic on the ipad for phone calls, but should be fine if the ipad is mounted up front.
This model has a big knob! KAC-M5024BT
There seem to be a few others available also (in the US anyway), but these are the way forward now that all sources these days are via a phone (or ipad).
 
Exactly and ideally, this should take away the requirement of any additional wiring/ other elements. Would love to hear opinions of other music system wizards on the forum.
 
I would be looking for a decent DSP with BT in that rather than an all-in-one. Like a GZDSP 4-8XII or Helix DSP Mini with the BT module.
 
So recently, I have been working on an idea to have iPad as a music system etc.

There a lot of Android Auto Displays on the marcet, starting from 50€ (good ones start arround 70) ... they connect to the phone via Bluetooth and at the same time the the phone connecst to the car bluetoooth, im my case the BT Adapter connected to my original Chorus cd changer port.

This is a very easy way to get more connectivity in the car, everything stays original and you have all the benefits of android Auto/apple car play ... tunein radio, spotify, speedcam warnings ... works like a charm.

And in traffic jams there are ways to watch YouTube videos also ... but thats a different Story.
 

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