PlasticMac
Admin Team
The inlet leaks are after the MAF, as that's where flow is metered. Likely points to check would be the line to the flap actuator, and the brake servo.
Mac.
Mac.
My FSi - First go with VCDS Lite
- Thread starter Malcyb
- Start date
james.mckenzie
Member
How did this end up? Im hoping to take the plunge for the missus run around car......eek
Malcyb
Member
I've not seen the EML again (it's probably tempting fate even typing that 
), though not had time to drive her an awful lot. Because there's no apparent problem at the moment I've not investigated any further. Would I consider it as a daily runaround? I don't know, I'm lucky that I've got a regular daily driver to fall back on so it's no disaster if something happens. But it's a lot of fun 
), though not had time to drive her an awful lot. Because there's no apparent problem at the moment I've not investigated any further. Would I consider it as a daily runaround? I don't know, I'm lucky that I've got a regular daily driver to fall back on so it's no disaster if something happens. But it's a lot of fun
PlasticMac
Admin Team
Mine is my daily, well every other day, shared with Mk1 TT. Shopping, run about, and occasional longer trips, Early Season Meal at Silverstone, visiting family in Bristol, etc.I've not seen the EML again (it's probably tempting fate even typing that
It's a nice, sporty car, meant to be driven.
Mac.
james.mckenzie
Member
Whats the minimum requirement for diagnostics equipment Malc? And how much is it all in?I've not seen the EML again (it's probably tempting fate even typing that
Malcyb
Member
At the moment I’m running with an unlicensed version of VCDS Lite which is the bare minimum, and you need the label file mentioned further up the thread. Plus a generic Chinese VAG-COM cable which I think you can easily pick up for a few £ on eBay - somebody here may be able to recommend one. I got mine for nothing, given to me by a generous Audi TT owner from whom I bought a spare wheel which fits the A2. So my current outlay is precisely zero. The biggest shortcoming is that this configuration seems not to decode all fault codes, and I think you need to licence it ($100) to do that. But it still displays the raw fault codes and unless I’m much mistaken you can get somewhere by looking those up in the Ross-tech wiki or on this forum. However I may bite the bullet and pay the licence fee given what I’m about to post…..
PlasticMac
Admin Team
Thread 'Decoding VCDS DTCs.' https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/decoding-vcds-dtcs.55329/
Mac.
Mac.
Malcyb
Member
I've not seen the EML again (it's probably tempting fate even typing that
So I was tempting fate
. Just a few hours after typing this, the EML lit up, and did so again this morning, even though it was still (apparently) running fine. I did a scan on the engine module and got the following 3 faults…16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 35-00 - -
17912 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1504 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
16955 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0571 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
The first 2 are the ones I’ve seen a couple of times before, and have seen when I’d previously cleared faults and had no EML. So this had led me to believe they were not serious. 17912 had previously been decoded as “Intake Air System: Leak Detected”. According to the wiki, 16955 is this…
16955/P0571/001393 - Ross-Tech Wiki
So this can’t have anything to do with the EML. No idea why I’ve got this as I’ve just checked the brake lights and they’re fine. And why would this come up in the engine module?
So in summary I am not sure if these faults give me any clue what’s wrong, or if I should really worry about it.
I then made a surprising discovery. I cleared the faults, restarted the engine and the EML went out. This is precisely the same as what happened the last time I cleared faults when the EML was lit. At the time I thought it was just a coincidence however this seems to suggest that clearing the codes affects the display of the EML, and I didn’t think it did before?
PlasticMac
Admin Team
The EML will illuminate when an engine fault condition occurs.
Each time the ignition is cycled Off and On, the ECU checks for the presence of a fault condition, if no fault condition is currently active, the EML will be Off.
There are many fault conditions that won't occur at idle, so won't trigger the EML immediately, not until the relavant engine condition is reached. An example is the camshaft sensor, unless it is faulty at rest, a fault will not be detected until the ECU finds that it hasn't moved to the requested position, (Set Point)
Any fault condition, (DTC), is logged however, and will remain in the DTC log until cleared with a DTC Clear command.
Mac.
Each time the ignition is cycled Off and On, the ECU checks for the presence of a fault condition, if no fault condition is currently active, the EML will be Off.
There are many fault conditions that won't occur at idle, so won't trigger the EML immediately, not until the relavant engine condition is reached. An example is the camshaft sensor, unless it is faulty at rest, a fault will not be detected until the ECU finds that it hasn't moved to the requested position, (Set Point)
Any fault condition, (DTC), is logged however, and will remain in the DTC log until cleared with a DTC Clear command.
Mac.
Malcyb
Member
Ok thanks that makes sense. So what would you suggest at this point, given the codes I’ve had? I’m assuming I can completely discount 16955 as any relevance to this. But given I’ve seen the other 2 faults previously and they haven’t (apparently) caused the EML to illuminate, I’m not sure how relevant they are either. However we’ve nothing else to go on. I know you’ve warned against carrying on driving a car whose EML is lit, but given the nature of these faults do you think it would be safe to continue and possibly investigate the cause of these 2 faults with a little less urgency, until/unless anything else changes? In the meantime I can carry on monitoring for faults.
PlasticMac
Admin Team
P0011 = Inlet Camshaft Sensor.
P1504 =Inlet Air Leak.
P0571 = Brake Light Switch.
It would be handy to have access to measuring blocks, and logging, to see what is going on with the camshaft sensor. Could just be a bit sticky, as the car was unused for quite a while.
Same goes for brake light switch, but they're not expensive, and fairly easy to change. Best use genuine Audi.
Inlet Air Leak, is after the MAF, G70, because before the MAF, air is not metered, so a leak can't be diagnosed.
Dodgy hose, hose clips etc?
Mac.
P1504 =Inlet Air Leak.
P0571 = Brake Light Switch.
It would be handy to have access to measuring blocks, and logging, to see what is going on with the camshaft sensor. Could just be a bit sticky, as the car was unused for quite a while.
Same goes for brake light switch, but they're not expensive, and fairly easy to change. Best use genuine Audi.
Inlet Air Leak, is after the MAF, G70, because before the MAF, air is not metered, so a leak can't be diagnosed.
Dodgy hose, hose clips etc?
Mac.
PlasticMac
Admin Team
Here's info on the inlet camshaft adjustment. Really need to check out related Groups 91, 93 & 94, to narrow the cause down a bit.
Mac.
Malcyb
Member
Thank you
. I'll plug in tomorrow and try and find this out, although to be honest I think any fix is going to be well beyond my capabilities. I guess at least it might point a garage in the right direction
PlasticMac
Admin Team
For me, as you suggest, it's about pointing the garage in the right direction.Thank you
The air leak, and brake switch are DIY, I think.
With some logged data from those Groups, which means registering your Lite, you'll know if the adjustment is moving, and by how much. That'll help diagnose the cause. If it's not moving, then the control valve, N205, may be the problem, (the adjustment is driven by oil pressure, via the N205 valve). If it's moving, but not quite enough, then the adjuster itself may be sticking.
Mac.
PlasticMac
Admin Team
I'd leave the inlet camshaft adjustment mechanism for a while, see if it improves with a bit of excercise.
Others can help more than I can, but I think that with the fresh air duct removed, access to the inlet hoses and clips, at the back of the engine is much improved.
Mac.
Others can help more than I can, but I think that with the fresh air duct removed, access to the inlet hoses and clips, at the back of the engine is much improved.
Mac.