New Member FSI colour Storm
- Thread starter Richie Mc
- Start date
PlasticMac
Member
Welcome to ownership of the best version of the A2.
VCDS is, or should be, mandatory for FSI owners.
It impractical to troubleshoot an FSI without it.
Mac.
VCDS is, or should be, mandatory for FSI owners.
It impractical to troubleshoot an FSI without it.
Mac.
I have had the car scanned on vcds for fault codes but don't have access to it myself.
PlasticMac
Member
Did the scan show any engine faults?
Mac.
I have previously replaced the g83 sensor. Also found that the flap actuator arm was broken so replaced the whole inlet manifold for a good one. Not sure what to do next. Anything else I do would be a wild stab in the dark.
The car runs fine from cold then intermittently sluggish/ hesitant when warm. Also has a problem starting from warm.
The car runs fine from cold then intermittently sluggish/ hesitant when warm. Also has a problem starting from warm.
That's the scan taken after.
Good Evening Richie Again,
Okay, I read this as the repair work did not fix anything.
Coolant Sensor.
Either the wiring or (both) sensor at fault and may well be the cause of you warm start problems. Was the replacement sensor genuine Audi?, if not replace with genuine Audi but before you do inspect wiring.
N316
I wonder if flap adaptation has been performed?, amounts to running basic setting I think. I also wonder if the manifold replacement was undertook with the flaps pinned up as per workshop manual? There are a few things you can check, peruse this thread....
Andy
Okay, I read this as the repair work did not fix anything.
Coolant Sensor.
Either the wiring or (both) sensor at fault and may well be the cause of you warm start problems. Was the replacement sensor genuine Audi?, if not replace with genuine Audi but before you do inspect wiring.
N316
I wonder if flap adaptation has been performed?, amounts to running basic setting I think. I also wonder if the manifold replacement was undertook with the flaps pinned up as per workshop manual? There are a few things you can check, peruse this thread....
fault p1031
hi guys, im new to this site and also a relitivley new a2 owner (12months), i love my little car however i have had a few niggles with it and having paid out at main dealers thought i would seek alternative advice, my latest prob is the engine management light being on, its saying fault p1031...
www.a2oc.net
Andy
Hi Andy,
Yes, replacing the inlet manifold made no difference. I did pin the arm whilst installing as I did some research before undertaking the work.
I wasn't aware of the flap adaptation. Is this something only a specialist will be able to do?
As for the coolant sensor, yes I am going to try a genuine audi part. Hopefully that will sort my hot start problem.
PlasticMac
Member
The adaptation is done with VCDS. Must be registered Lite, or full version.
It is essential, as Andy says, after the work you've done.
Mac
It is essential, as Andy says, after the work you've done.
Mac
PlasticMac
Member
And, again as Andy says, you also need to get the G83 Coolant Sensor working, I suspect wiring/connectors. The G83 sensor plays a key part in controlling the thermostat and the cooling fan. Without the sensor output getting to the ECU, engine temperature control is compromised, and falls back to a safe default, to protect the engine, but will detrimentally affect performance, and mpg.
If you have a multimeter, unplug the sensor, and compare it's resistance to the sensor it replaced. If they are similar, that would point to wiring/connectors.
Good luck
Mac.
Poor starting from warm may be down to the electric fuel pump, in the tank. It normally runs at 3.8 bar, limited by a bypass solenoid, which bleeds pressure off via the return line. When the engine is warm, the bypass solenoid is closed, boosting the electric pump pressure to 5.8 bar. This increased pressure is needed to prevent fuel at the input to the engine mounted High Pressure Fuel Pump, (HPFP), from vaporising, due to the pump being at engine temperature. If the electric pump pressure is low, (<3.8 bar, ignition on, engine off), then vaporising can occur when running too.The only practical way to check this, and many other FSI functions is with VCDS.
A registered copy of VCDS Lite, (to run on any Windows laptop, XP - 11), which will do everything you need, (but only on pre 2005/06 VAG vehicles), costs $99 for registration, plus less than £10 for a lead.
So for the cost of an hour or so's labour, at a garage, you're able to troubleshoot yourself.
Mac.
Last edited:
simon martyn
Member
Welcome aboard, as you can see, learned members are stepping in to assist. All part of the miracle that is the A2 O/C.
The very best of luck.
The very best of luck.
Hi Mac, thanks for the info.And, again as Andy says, you also need to get the G83 Coolant Sensor working, I suspect wiring/connectors. The G83 sensor plays a key part in controlling the thermostat and the cooling fan. Without the sensor output getting to the ECU, engine temperature control is compromised, and falls back to a safe default, to protect the engine, but will detrimentally affect performance, and mpg.
If you have a multimeter, unplug the sensor, and compare it's resistance to the sensor it replaced. If they are similar, that would point to wiring/connectors.
Good luck
Mac.
Poor starting from warm may be down to the electric fuel pump, in the tank. It normally runs at 3.8 bar, limited by a bypass solenoid, which bleeds pressure off via the return line. When the engine is warm, the bypass solenoid is closed, boosting the electric pump pressure to 5.8 bar. This increased pressure is needed to prevent fuel at the input to the engine mounted High Pressure Fuel Pump, (HPFP), from vaporising, due to the pump being at engine temperature. If the electric pump pressure is low, (<3.8 bar, ignition on, engine off), then vaporising can occur when running too.The only practical way to check this, and many other FSI functions is with VCDS.
A registered copy of VCDS Lite, (to run on any Windows laptop, XP - 11), which will do everything you need, (but only on pre 2005/06 VAG vehicles), costs $99 for registration, plus less than £10 for a lead.
So for the cost of an hour or so's labour, at a garage, you're able to troubleshoot yourself.
Mac.
The default mode for the G83 makes sense as the cooling fan has recently started to come on from cold. I originally changed that sensor as the temp gauge wasn't working. If I remember, that didn't solve it and I damaged the thermostat housing trying to replace the thermostat, which turned out to be rusted solid, and ended up replacing the whole thermostat housing end the temp gauge has worked fine since then.
Plenty to think about. Thank you.
Good Evening Richie,
Probably just me reading too much into your post but I thought there was a hint you were discussing the G62 engine outlet temperature sensor.
More to add over the weekend.
Andy
PlasticMac
Member
I can understand Andy’s comments.
The temperature gauge, although driven by the cluster, not the ECU, uses the temperature from the Engine Outlet Sensor, G62, not the G83, Radiator Outlet. .
Mac.
You and Andy are both right..
Some conflicting Google results confused me when looking up the part number.
I have in fact not changed the G83, grey, sensor.
Thanks for pointing that out guys, was on course for going round in a big circle.
PlasticMac
Member
We've all been there ...
Mac.
Keen to see if it would make any difference I got a new G83 sensor and fitted it. After a shortish drive the temp soared over 90 and the fan didn't seem to kick in.. bit frustrating. Taken a step back. It was at least usable before. If I unplug the replacement sensor would it in theory just put the fan on all the time?