OMG. one thing after another. Climate control this time. Arrrrgggghh.

Checked the fuses this morning and reseated them all. They all seem fine.
Also switched fuse 36 for another 10a fuse to see if there is a micro crack in the original fuse.

Will test and report back if there is any change and try the next solution.
 
I'm going through slightly different but very similar issues with mine just now.

So in my case I'm pretty much certain its the temp flap motor as my CC unit isn't cutting out for sure - but the other symptoms are the same as yours...ie ok in cooler days but hot days it really struggles to cope.

If you are hearing buzzing I suspect it could well be down to the fan (even though the flap motor is also behind the glovebox of course) as I'm not hearing any noise in mine at all like this.

I've busted fuse 36 a few times with changing internal bulbs and i can 100% say that the power to the CC unit is cut completely and no lights come on.

Good luck and would be good to hear back if you make any kind of progress.
 
OK I might have to eat my words and thank the venerable members for suggesting it was possibly the fuses that were the cause of this climate control unit cutting out. I took out and re-seated the fuses, no 36 in particular, and have now gone out for a test drive with no issues with the climate control cutting out.
The outside air temperature is 24° so my theory of temperature related issue is probably unfounded.

I need to keep going out in warm weather to test it but I'm tentatively hoping (fingers crossed) that this has fixed it.

Also my intermittent issue with the central locking unit key fob issue also seems to have sorted itself out too.
Fingers crossed.
 
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After a trip to Bordeaux (France) the flipping thing cut out randomly all the way down there so I turned it off. That did not make any difference to the power outage to the unit so it would turn itself back on. FFS.
I did notice another issue too, the was a clicking coming from the rear passenger door, slightly quieter than the central locking mechanism click and also random in it's cycle. So on route I yanked out fuses 42, 41 and 36 and that stopped the clicking.

I got to Bordeaux and put them back in, initially the clicking noise was not there, then it reappeared along with the climate control flicking on an off.

A CCCU unit replacement required?

I now have VCDS VagCom cable and software ordered to diagnose the issue myself as Tony is about 700 miles from where I now am.

Hopefully this will point in the right direction to what needs to be fixed.
 
FFS!!!

So this VCDS software and Ross Tech HexV2 cable show up a month late. I find that the software is on a mini CD and I have a slot loading Macbook pro DVD player.
I eventually get down to the local Library and transfer the software to a USB stick and eventually get round to testing the cable, Hex thingy and software all together.

Just to note. As I have an Apple Macbook Pro, I have virtual Windows 8.1 software running.

So I plug in the usb cable and I get one green flashing light then it goes solid green. The computer recognises the HexV2 unit.
I plug the HexV2 into the car and the lights flash green then go solid.

VagCom recognises the HexV2 unit but says "Status: Not plugged into car" but it is. I reseated the cable, more than once, even pulled out the OBD plug to check the cables were seated correctly (which they are) and then proceeded to try every combination of plug in Hex first then USB, USB first, then Hex then car etc.etc. No good.

The ignition was also on while I was testing this with no hope and VagCom always said "Status: Not plugged into car"
I don't have another car to check this cable on at the moment.
I did have a spare USB cable and tested that, for a brief moment I thought it was going to work as it gave me K1 ok K2 ok but Can not OK notice. But that did let me view the VCDS screen and set up the auto scan feature. But the comms failed.

Any ideas before I speak to Ross Tech?
 
Remember seeing this in the Ross Tech 'FAQ' section but have no idea if the 'boot camp' comment is significant -


VCDS works fine on Apple Mac computers that have Intel processors (all modern Macs) when Windows is installed on them using Boot Camp. Most computers that are used to run Linux can also boot Windows. If you do not wish to install Windows, we now offer a platform-independent version of VCDS called "VCDS-Mobile".

Cheers Spike
 
Hi,

Check the fuse that is for the OBD plug (Fuse 28) , if that has blown it will not connect.

Steve B
 
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some RS232 converter chips are picky. If you have not configured the VM correctly, it also won't work. Does the VM even see the cable as a serial port? If so, is the serial port set to 9600, 8, N, 1? I've had to set that before in XP to get my native RS232 cable to work correctly.

The boot camp comment is very significant. I'm not sure how far into the hardware the VM drivers go, but it does sound remarkably like the answer is boot camp or a native Windows box.

- Bret
 
I had no luck at all getting it to work under a MAC using either bootcamp or parallels
got an old XP laptop out of the bottom draw and worked immediately that I set the com port to 9600

I think you are into a work of grief trying to use a MAC (yes I know that are better than windows, just not for car diagnostic stuff)

Cheers,
 
Cheers guys.

If I plug in the Hex part into the OBD port it lights up which says to me there is power. I also had a bluetooth OBDII dongle attached to it recently and can see various bits of the cars functionality with an iPhone app but it was really bought for my Nissan Leaf with the app Leaf Spy. Although limited the car did talk to the OBDII bluetooth dongle.
So there must be (like you guys are suggesting) something in the comms between OSX and Parallels (which I am using) which is stopping the comms between the car and VCDS.

The Hex cable I have is USB so it's the USB driver that would possibly be at fault, though it talks to and controls the Hex when plugged in to the computer as the lights indicate this on the unit. It's only when plugged into the car which it says it's not when it is.

I'll investigate further and might install boot camp. Never done that before.
 
you have more chance with bootcamp as you are then allowing Windows to have direct access to the USB ports on the MAC's hardware. Running windows in parallels means that there is still OSX sat between windows and the hardware which for some USB devices works perfectly, but other that relay on certain chips (UART drivers from memory) don't work at all or certainly not in a reliable manor

Before you install Windows via bootcamp, bear in mind that most car diagnostic software needs a 32 bit version of windows which means XP is you best friend, just don't ever let it have internet access :)

Like I stated yesterday the simple solution is an old windows laptop, and leave the MAC in the warm dry house :)

Cheers,
 
Bootcamp was indeed my friend. Success.

It did take 2 days of head scratching of why the Windows 8.1 64 bit installer kept stalling before it began.
It turned out as I had removed my internal DVD drive and replaced it with an 1tb SSD it would not continue the installation. Arrrghh.

So I stripped my mac and put back the DVD drive back in and went through the Boot Camp install procedure for the 20th time. Bingo.
Windows 8.1 Pro 64bit installed. All of the required software installed with a few Mac like enhancements to make me feel better and I went out and tested the Ross Tech cable and software. Yey success.

Now I have to learn what this program is about but at least I can now scan the car myself and try to work out what these fault codes are.

I have since found out I could have replaced 4 lines of software code for the DVD driver to make the machine think it was an internal one but hey ho.
All working.

Now I need a working Ekta/Elswin app so I can find the parts I need including the diagrams and I'll be good to go.

Thanks to all for the help in getting this working.

Now I'll start bothering you all on the faults codes next. lol. Sorry in advance.



depronman said:
you have more chance with bootcamp as you are then allowing Windows to have direct access to the USB ports on the MAC's hardware. Running windows in parallels means that there is still OSX sat between windows and the hardware which for some USB devices works perfectly, but other that relay on certain chips (UART drivers from memory) don't work at all or certainly not in a reliable manor

Before you install Windows via bootcamp, bear in mind that most car diagnostic software needs a 32 bit version of windows which means XP is you best friend, just don't ever let it have internet access :)

Like I stated yesterday the simple solution is an old windows laptop, and leave the MAC in the warm dry house :)

Cheers,
Click to expand...
 
OK. Here is the scan data.

Where do you think I should start first with this process of elimination? Replace the G65 Sensor?

The Convenience (or not so convenient) units?

Cheers in advance.


Chassis Type: 8Z (8Z - Audi A2 (2000 > 2005))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 18 37 45 46 56 57 75 76 77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: None
Part No: 8Z0 820 043 D
Component: A2-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT 0514
VCID: 377CA8DF152198F918-2580

3 Faults Found:
00600 - Potentiometer On Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (G92)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65)
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System
80-00 - Single-Wire Operation

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Z0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 8Z0 920 950 M
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. VDO D04
Coding: 08430
Shop #: WSC 12202
VCID: 489EDB2368DFE70161-5180
WAUZZZ8Z74N004086 AUZ7Z0C2415515

6 Faults Found:
01304 - Radio
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01320 - Control Module for Climatronic (J255)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System
80-00 - Single-Wire Operation

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 8Z0-959-433.lbl
Part No: 8Z0 959 433 AF
Component: Komfortger·t TBD 1210
Coding: 06895
Shop #: WSC 00151
VCID: 0A1A212B36535511B7-4B40

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8Z2959802A
Component: Tırsteuer.FS BRM 0207

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8Z2959801A
Component: Tırsteuer.BF BRM 0003

5 Faults Found:
01320 - Control Module for Climatronic (J255)
49-00 - No Communications
01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System
80-00 - Single-Wire Operation
01562 - Rear right door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01562 - Rear right door
61-10 - Won't De-Safe - Intermittent
00956 - Key 2
35-10 - - - Intermittent
 
By far not an expert, but I seems you have a broken wire or a shorted circuit somewhere. I mean a single wire possibly. Happy to be corrected��

Boris
 
AudA2Numpty said:
That fills me with dread. Where would I begin to find it, or is that a really stupid question?
Click to expand...
Hi. Did you sort out this issue? I seems to have the same problem. I can tell you that it is not related to high temperature. It is a couple degrees below zero here right now. My climate control flicks on and off. When it is off it gets really cold in the car. The only thing that works when it is off is the seat heating.
I also had issues with central locking and the fuel flap. Did you have the same?

Regards
 

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The seat heating working when the climate is off is to be expected and ignored as a 'symptom'. Apart from the seat temperature rollers being sited on the climate it is completely independent of the climate in terms of power supply and wiring.

Andy
 
Andrew said:
The seat heating working when the climate is off is to be expected and ignored as a 'symptom'. Apart from the seat temperature rollers being sited on the climate it is completely independent of the climate in terms of power supply and wiring.

Andy
Click to expand...
Yes exactly the seat heating works fine. But the climate control does not. For some reason it turns off. Sometimes for a couple of minutes then on again. I really dont have any idea what the causes this trouble.
 
Replace with new fuses 36 and 38, while they are out check the connections in the fuse box for terminal corrosion and clean well. Remove climate panel and fully clean out the small fan compartment of all the built up rubbish, while it is out remove and refit all the plugs on the back several times this wipes the contacts and improves the connection. Scan the car for error codes and clear them all. Run the climate in manual mode i.e not "auto" and see if any problems appear. Try again in auto mode. One thing is canbus, after market radios do not communicate ( usually ) and this generates errors, whether these errors then confuse the system and trigger other errors or even shut down components not sure but starting to think there is a link there. Remember electrics are only power and earth and if the component loses either then it will shut off. Try running tempoarily a earth lead from the battery to the earth on the climate panel. Have you replaced the pollen filter could be blocked or missing and leaves etc jamming the fan blower, or blower bearing corroded.
 
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