Open to the floor

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If I apply the same logic to the timing belt.
Using cons first.
  • Prohibative cost
  • Vehicle down time
Pros
  • Maintainance of the asset
  • Higher resale value
Just a couple for each but you get the idea
 
Ka05 engine bay disassembly.
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Had mine off yesterday, if any of the mounting points are warped or bent then a heat gun set to 250 degrees works way better than I was expecting to soften it enough to form back into its original shape.
It seemed to have had a front impact int he past, enough to deform the plastic mountings where it connects to the wheel arches, but not enough to bring it into contact with the aluminium cross beam underneath
 
Crickey, I've been lucky.
Thanks for the heat gun technical tip.
Thankfully the bumper and slam panel are undamaged and were removed with no issues.
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The slam panel
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Good luck with the rebuild. If methodical it all bolts back together with no issues. Just to matter of swapping the alternator and carrier over from the non-ac car.

I've got a lovely refurbed alternator there for a non ac car should you find you need one.
 
'Almost' real time
So progress will be weather dependant.
Edit
This is the third time I've done this type of engine work so I will make good headway.

It's just big LEGO
 
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A2Steve said:
Good luck with the rebuild. If methodical it all bolts back together with no issues. Just to matter of swapping the alternator and carrier over from the non-ac car.

I've got a lovely refurbed alternator there for a non ac car should you find you need one.
Click to expand...
I did not know that about the alternators!
Thank you
:) 👍
 
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OK, I didn't follow my own advice but did put steel toe wellingtons on.

This is where it stands this evening.
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Inline engines look better.
 
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Joga said:
Poor engine (not refering to your work of course rotifer), I guess this just underlines the good idea of changing the waterpump with the cam belt?
Click to expand...
I agree, go for the full timing belt kit.
Catch and reuse the coolant. Filter it through a cloth in a funnel....I've done this in the past. Could do the temperature sensor and thermostat at the same time?

EDIT

Arrived today 02/02/2024
INA Belt Kit 530 0089 31
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rotifer said:
OK, I didn't follow my own advice but did put steel toe wellingtons on.

This is where it stands this evening.
View attachment 118504
Inline engines look better.
Click to expand...
It just occurred to me, while trying to work out how the car is supported, if there is anything even slightly iffy about your front brake pipes; replace them now. I’ll take a good look at mine before doing this.
Progress is good, I’d still be looking for the tools.
 
Engine is out the car, resembles the iron giant's face.
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Time to reflect with a
Leaf Hopper on a Buddha
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 WARNING
A long list of jobs follows, maybe print it out if your doing this job?
NOTE
Petrol BBY no aircon

Chock the wheels. Loosen front wheel nuts. Put car on axle stand. Remove undertray, bonnet front wheels and arch liners. Stop the wiper arm in 1/2 sweep position remove arm caps, nuts and spray splined shafts with Wd40. Disconnect battery.
Take off all air trunking. But leave airbox and washer reservoir attached to slam panel.
Remove wiper arm. Get trim removal tools and gently remove scuttle.
Drop the coolant expansion bottle out the way. Remove fresh air intake. Drain the radiator coolant and engine oil. Lift out coil packs replace loosely. Remove all engine sensors & controllers. Leave the coolant temperature sensors attatched to the loom for identification purposes.
Unpick the wiring looms from clips/mountings and gather up to one side. 2 bolts and remove fuel rail & injectors all as one. Intake manifold 6 bolts. Crank case breather 3 bolts & remove. Thermostat housing 3 bolts leave egr pipe and what hoses you can in situ remove in one piece with death pipe.
Front bumper & slam pannel remove and set aside safely.
Gearbox linkage removed to get the clutch slave cylinder out.
Unbolt gear linkage carrier.
Starter motor and alternator off.
Inner drive shaft bolts 6 per side. Use a screw driver jammed in the brake rotors to stop shafts turning.
Split exhaust near back box. Extract lambda probe bank 2 wiring through hole under ECU.
Remove cover under car to retrieve lambda wire.
Disconnect down pipe at cat. Remove hangers and shift exhaust out of the way. Leave exhaust manifold as a handle.
Support sump on trolley jack. Remove OS engine mount.
Shift all wiring looms to the left and right. Remove dog bone.
Check what's still attached and get it out the way.
Support engine. Remove gearbox mount. Take out the engine.

NOTE
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Bank 1 lambda sensor number 2 electrical clip located in the passenger footwell under ECU cradle
Picture 2: unv=der body the plastic cover has been lowered to gain access
 
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A neglected A2 can be recovered to MOT standard partly due to the aluminium construction and durable materials used to fit it out.

Paint work devoid of paint
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Panels out of alignment
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Pong of moldy doors
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Puncture right through the floor
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Dented drivers footwell
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In Addition
The near side rear door was a dark blue at one point. Resprayed and fitted as part of a low quality repair done to the sill. Both passenger side doors don't fit the body, the tailgate leaks which has led to the footwells and battery box filling with water.
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NOTE
Edited after @dj_efk & @Joga asked about if I was going to restore both vehicles
I am convinced the parts car is beyond economical or safe repair but am pleased the engine runs.
At this point I'm about to remove the engine from this parts car.
I will write about the slam panel and how it interacts with the aircon on removal.
Are there parts of the dismantling process that you would like me to cover in more detail?
Open to suggestions.
 
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The spares car definitely can’t be “brought back” then? Your description above made it seem like a viable concern in its own right, albeit in need of TLC.

Appreciate it’s your property and you must do what you wish of course, I just wondered given your wording whether this one could be saved and a “definite goner” or just a spare engine be sourced instead?
 
hi dj_efk,
Great question...in summary
  • Cost benefit analysis
  • Road safety
  • The number of individuals willing to invest time & capitol in such a project
  • The number of recycled parts used before scrapped
May I ask? Are you interested in saving this vehicle?

EDIT
If you are PM me and we can discuss
:) 👍
 
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