Problem with Battery Discharge - Suspect CCU.

I haven't done anything yet. I'm unclear about your comments about the immobiliser.

If I use your VCDS method of pairing my keys are you saying I will have to follow up with the immobiliser stuff or were those comments only relevant to the previous paragraph about the AF units?
 
No
the immobiliser part only applies if you are using new or secondhand keys that have never been paired with your car.

In your case your keys work fine except for the remote operation. So that is the only part of the process you need to do.
Your immoboliser chips are already paired to the car.

Steve B
 
And you will also need to reset your "one touch" window settings now that you have changed your cccu.

Just switch on the ignition and then hold down the window open button until 1 second after it has fully opened.
Then hold up the window close button until 1 second after the window has closed. That window will now open or close fully when you depress the switch for a short press.
Then repeat this with the other electric window/s in the car. That will enable all of the one touch operations (as well as the fully open feature when you hold down the unlock button on your (paired) fob. Lock held down closes all windows fully remotely too. )

Steve B
 
Thanks Steve your procedure worked fine.

It seems I have a new problem now in that all the doors remote unlock but the driver's door will not remote lock (all the others do). Very strange.....anybody got a clue about this?
 
I think I've got my own answer to the above. The driver's door window switch has packed up and I am awaiting a replacement. In the meantime the window is stopped about two inches down and duct taped. I presume the CCU knows this and will not lock that door until I get a working switch that closes the window. Does that sound right?
 
If anyone out there reading this with similar problems is worried about doing this yourself, don't be!

I bought a 2nd hand CCCU for £75 and it was really easy to fit. I reprogrammed the keys myself using VCDS Lite which I licensed for $99 (£64) and using one of these attached to a laptop:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-VW-AU...E-VCDS-LITE-/391155750814?hash=item5b12b3179e

The local Audi dealer wanted £50 to reprogram the keys so I reckoned it made more sense to have a fully functional copy of VCDS Lite and do it myself. VCDS is bound to come in handy in the future.......
 
Providence said:
I think I've got my own answer to the above. The driver's door window switch has packed up and I am awaiting a replacement. In the meantime the window is stopped about two inches down and duct taped. I presume the CCU knows this and will not lock that door until I get a working switch that closes the window. Does that sound right?
Click to expand...

Hello,

The car is normally perfectly happy to lock the doors with the windows down, so, unfortunately, I doubt your diagnosis is correct.

To help me establish where the problem lies, could you please try the following...
Does the electric window master switch (built into the driver's arm rest) control the passenger window without issue?
Does the wing mirror adjustment work OK for both sides?
If you lock the car by putting the key in the barrel of the driver's door, do all the other doors also lock?
With all other doors closed, do the interior lights come on/off as you open/close the driver's door? What about the display between the instrument dials?

Cheers,

Tom
 
Thanks for your response Timmus.

Does the electric window master switch (built into the driver's arm rest) control the passenger window without issue?

YES

Does the wing mirror adjustment work OK for both sides?

NO Neither side

If you lock the car by putting the key in the barrel of the driver's door, do all the other doors also lock?

YES

With all other doors closed, do the interior lights come on/off as you open/close the driver's door? What about the display between the instrument dials?

YES dials and interior lights
 
OK, that's a fairly odd selection of results with no clear indicator of where the fault lies...

I'm inclined to think that either there's a dodgy connection or that the door control module has 'frozen', as they occasionally seem to do.

With the ignition off, I'd suggest you take off the door card and remove all the connectors from the door control module. Wait a few minutes and then plug them all back in again, making sure they're all well seated.

If that doesn't work, there's a more serious gremlin; perhaps a dodgy microswitch within the lock assembly, a partially failed door control module, etc.
I was in Horsham only a matter of days ago. If I'd seen this thread earlier, I'd have offered help.

Cheers,

Tom
 
I'll be taking the door card off tomorrow (weather permitting) to replace the window switch. I suspect there is some water damage because of a leak along the top rear edge of the door. I'm going to attempt to clean up the inside and seal the leak. I'll be checking all the connections as well.

Thanks Tom.
 
It appears to be dry in there!

Just checking in to say that the door switch did not fix the window. So I did what I should have done in the first place, check for faults on module 46. It reported that the Door Control Module was faulty. I've ordered a 2nd hand one.

Taking the door card off revealed the reason for the bass rattle tha's been getting on my nerves. There's a 1" tear in the mid/bass unit! I have ordered one of these too.

I'm hoping that replacing the Door Control Module will fix the window and allow the door to remote lock......
 
So I've replaced the speaker and have had to reinstall the door card as the replacement door control module is not due to arrive until Monday. I pulled all the connections and they are all clean. There is no sign of any dampness.

I randomly tried to remote lock the car and it worked (ie driver's door locked). I then tried the window and it raised a bit then stopped. I then tried remote locking and it didn't work! The window was stuck down 3" and by turning the ignition on/off about 'n' times I managed to get it to the top (closed). About every 3rd go I would get the window to move then stop. Hooray! No duct tape required!

Can anyone comment as to whether I'm barking up the right tree here? Does it seem likely that the door control module is the cause?

Incidentally the replacement CCCU has definitely fixed the battery discharge problem.
 
I have fitted the new door control module and now the window operates ONLY with the door open. Bizarre!

The dash display seems to register the door being open or closed.

The door still does not remote lock and the mirror adjuster works intermittently.

Anybody out there got any ideas?

This is driving me round the bend!

Thanks.
 
Now I'm fairly new to A2's but have worked many years with vehicle security and in car entertainment.

It sounds like the problem is affected by the door being open or closed, I would always check the loom through the door as it sounds like a break in one of the cable. In which case the fault may not be the control module and just a loom damage and since you have had the door card off have moved it a little and the connection is better.

Anyway they are my general thoughts and would always be my first port of call but I am sure if it an A2 specific problem someone will chime in with there thoughts.

Good luck
 
Thanks for that.

I can't see any obvious problem with the wires on the door but it would appear that the problem is something to do with an intermittent wiring problem. I'll check in with the local independent Audi man who sorted out my ABS wiring and see if he can help.
 
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