Hi there everyone. I’ve just joined today and am brand new to this. I have a 2002 1.4 SE that I have owned from new and have a big problem with the steering pressure pump. Mechanic told me it was faulty. I bought second hand one that was meant to be the same. The fault light goes out but it won’t communicate with the car. The part is 8Z0423156R. Any hints or know anywhere I could get it repaired
Steering pressure pump
- Thread starter NI Jim
- Start date
bix
Active Member
Your old broken pump might trigger some code in ecu which needs to be cleared up after you install new pump.
We are lucky we don't need to code in any new parts in our A2s. I remember on my old 2006 Avant A6 which is just about year younger than my other A2 I have to manually code in every new part I replaced. Even the most basic parts like battery have to be coded in with vcds.
We are lucky we don't need to code in any new parts in our A2s. I remember on my old 2006 Avant A6 which is just about year younger than my other A2 I have to manually code in every new part I replaced. Even the most basic parts like battery have to be coded in with vcds.
While awaiting VCDS scan info, there are two fuses that need to be intact for the steering to work. Check fuse 38 for power supply to the steering controller (via CANBUS), and there is a large power supply fuse that is located in the underfloor compartment that supplies power to the pump itself.
Something else worth having a look at as it is easy to access is the a/c pressure sensor (G65) ; this is located behind the front bumper skin in front of the coolant radiator. It is also on the CANBUS circuit, and if it goes wrong, it causes fuse 38 to burn out, taking out the steering controller as well as various other sensors and odds and sods. If you are able to unplug the sensor, this may allow fuse 38 to be replaced (assuming 38 is bust which isn't guaranteed).
Something else worth having a look at as it is easy to access is the a/c pressure sensor (G65) ; this is located behind the front bumper skin in front of the coolant radiator. It is also on the CANBUS circuit, and if it goes wrong, it causes fuse 38 to burn out, taking out the steering controller as well as various other sensors and odds and sods. If you are able to unplug the sensor, this may allow fuse 38 to be replaced (assuming 38 is bust which isn't guaranteed).
Scans showed up 2 faults. 00778 steering angle sensor g85 mechanical malfunction and 00817 steering assist temperature protection-intermittent. So having consulted another mechanic I have sent my original pump away to be tested. Really good suggestions from everyone. Thanks a lot
PlasticMac
Member
I Don't think steering angle sensor errors would disable power steering. That would compromise safety.
The error "00817 steering assist temperature protection-intermittent" points to the power steering pump running hot, which will shut it down, at least until it cools.
Run steering angle sensor adaptation, when you get the pump back.
How does repair cost compare to a used unit from Ami/Steve/Clackers?
Mac
The help I’m getting on here is fantastic but I must say I am getting more and more baffled. I sent the pump away to ECU Testing for test and possible repair after supplying them with the car details and the part number They have just came Back saying that they can’t test this unit because of the software level in it. Didn’t cost me anything other than time but I’m back where I started. my mechanic assures me he’s checked all fuses and other suggestions on here. So having tried a second hand unit which won’t communicate I seem to only have one option and that is to buy a new unit. Western Power Steering say they can supply a reconditioned unit which will be plug and play ( approx £280 delivered to me! ) but after what’s happened up to now I’m nervous about laying out that money. Any ideas? Thanks Jim.
PlasticMac
Member
The "no comms" is from the Steering Assist controller I assume.
Just wondering if plugging it in, with the battery dissconected, then connecting the battery again might cold start/reset the controller?
Does your original unit still communicate?
Nothing very insightful I'm afraid.
I'll check the electrical schematic later.
Mac.
D
Deleted member 20348
Guest
If the good suggestions in this post are unsuccessful you could try this?
Sorry for not being concise in this post.
A question...?
What if the steering wheel has been removed at some point? Could the angle sensor be off by 360 degrees?
VCDS can give a readout in degrees of steering wheel angle and with the steering wheel centred and the front wheels pointing dead ahead the angle should be 0°
If it is not zero I would check the window with the yellow dot. I'll explain the best I can without a photo.
Make sure your on level ground and your front wheels are dead ahead .
CAUTION RISK OF INJURY.
You need to remove the airbag, steering wheel and possibly the indicator stalks to do this.
Once removed you'll be looking at the front cover of a steering angle sensor and roughly at a position of roughly 2°clock it has tiny perspex window and in that should have a yellow dot in it.
If it's not spin the forks until the dot does appear your at 0°.
Assembly is the reverse of removal.
All the best
I've made that mistake in the past. I read a fair few posts before I found out about that 'yellow dot'.
I'm doing this write up from memory last spring so some of this information could be wrong.
I would recommend you double check its on the money. I'm often wrong!
Sorry for not being concise in this post.
A question...?
What if the steering wheel has been removed at some point? Could the angle sensor be off by 360 degrees?
VCDS can give a readout in degrees of steering wheel angle and with the steering wheel centred and the front wheels pointing dead ahead the angle should be 0°
If it is not zero I would check the window with the yellow dot. I'll explain the best I can without a photo.
Make sure your on level ground and your front wheels are dead ahead .
CAUTION RISK OF INJURY.
You need to remove the airbag, steering wheel and possibly the indicator stalks to do this.
Once removed you'll be looking at the front cover of a steering angle sensor and roughly at a position of roughly 2°clock it has tiny perspex window and in that should have a yellow dot in it.
If it's not spin the forks until the dot does appear your at 0°.
Assembly is the reverse of removal.
All the best
I've made that mistake in the past. I read a fair few posts before I found out about that 'yellow dot'.
I'm doing this write up from memory last spring so some of this information could be wrong.
I would recommend you double check its on the money. I'm often wrong!
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PlasticMac
Member
The power steering has, (I think), two fuses. The big one in the underfloor compartment, that supplies the actual pump motor, and Fuse 38, (10A), that supplies the PS Controller, (and other circuits). The "No Comms" could be a lack of power to the controller. There are, (again, I think), three wires on the four way plug, I'm guessing this is canbus and supply. The controller has it's own supply, because the supply to the motor will be very unstable, due to the varying and heavy load of the pump motor. The ground may be common to motor and controller, so the big two way plug may need to be in, for the controller to work.
Mac.
Mac.
Pie-eyedpiper
Member
Can the steering wheel being out of central alignment cause this?
Having changed my front suspension parts my steering wheel is at the 10 o'clock position ( wheels straight ahead), or does the steering wheel actually have to have been removed to throw the alignment out?
PlasticMac
Member
If the wheel is at 10 o'clock, then the steering angle sensor will also be at 10 o'clock. The wheel and sensor only latch together in one position.
Quite likely to cause ESP errors.
Need to correct it.
Mac.
Pie-eyedpiper
Member
Thanks Mac
Would that cause issues with my steering, excessively heavy etc?
D
Deleted member 20348
Guest
PlasticMac
Member
Probably not, although if tracking is far out, then that might.
If you get the tracking done, at a good tracking workshop, ask them to set it up with the steering wheel dead ahead, when the road wheels are. Any joint, such as ball joints, in the steering mechanism can cause stiffness, making steering harder, and overloading the pump. Again a reputable shop will check it out.
Mac
Mac.
Pie-eyedpiper
Member
Yes, just like that.
Pie-eyedpiper
Member
Thanks for that Mac.
D
Deleted member 20348
Guest
I second what PlasticMac said about finding a tracking workshop.
How confidant are you taking the steering wheel off? I can talk you through it with photos if that would be helpful?
Edit
If you fancy some background design and function info about the A2 power steering seek out the following pages 20 through 29 in this publication.
How confidant are you taking the steering wheel off? I can talk you through it with photos if that would be helpful?
Edit
If you fancy some background design and function info about the A2 power steering seek out the following pages 20 through 29 in this publication.
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