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-Timing Belt Petrol BBY Engine-
PART ONE
ACCESSmanualsSAFETYpartstimeTORQUE
PART ONE
ACCESSmanualsSAFETYpartstimeTORQUE
Hello and welcome to this guide written to be used alongside the manual and self study document.
Workshop Manual
Audi A2 2001
4-cyl. petrol injection engine (1.4 Ltr), mechanics
Engine ID AUA BBY
Edition 11.2015
Self-study programme 247
AUDI A2 - Engine and Gearbox
Design and Function
The manual is available to download at the AUDI ERWIN website or ask around on the forum for one.
I wish you the best of luck with your timing belt project for the AUA/BBY 1.4 petrol engine
NOTE
To carry out this work good basic skill using hand tools is beneficial.
The list below can be used to identify both common and uncommon tools used in this project.
Thanks to @GJ* and their post that formed the backbone for my post.
DIY cambelt replacement
Having found these forums a useful source of information I thought I’d share the experience of changing the cambelts on my A2 1.4 petrol in the hope that it is of use to someone. If you are a competent DIY mechanic then the job is quite straightforward and no special tools are required. They...
www.a2oc.net
Tools
- The Audi A2 Workshop Manual for the AUA / BBY Engine
- Camshaft locking pin tool
- 21mm Multipoint socket
- Long breaker bar & extensions
- Torque wrench
- Crankshaft pully holding tool
- Spring clip tool
- Small and medium ratchet sets
- Torx bits & Allen keys
- Spanners & screwdrivers
- Jack & Axle stands
- Bucket for coolant
Prepare the car
NOTE: Car needs to be on the second peg of the axle stands to gain enough space to use a breaker bar under the car.
Disconnect the battery, chock rear wheels, loosen drivers side wheel bolts, jack up the car and place on axle stands, remove drivers wheel
Remove bonnet, undertray and drivers wheel arch liner
Remove drivers headlight, air intake pipes from airbox up to the skuttle
Hold parts out the way of the working area with zip ties (you'll need space to work)
The next job is to remove the alternator belt by releasing the tensioner to free the belt.
At this point have a look around to see if you have missed anything, check the car is high enough off the ground and well planted on the axle stands and going nowhere.
Working under the car release the lower radiator hose and drain the coolant into the bucket and replace the hose.
Carefully remove the dip stick and put it somewhere safe. Press the two tabs to unclip the dip stick tube where it meets the slam panel and do the same with the oil filler tube.
Grab a jack and piece of wood and set it up with the wood between the sump and the jack pad (mind out for the oil sensor don't crush that)
Challenging section
Get the crank shaft pully holding tool, 21mm multipoint socket, long breaker bar and optional a short extension. If you've got 1/2 braker bar that will flex less but it is not necessary.
You need to be ready for this part as it requres a lot of physical force to free the bolt.
With the engine safely supported by the jack loosen the drives side engine mount. (Totally remove the engine mount and lower the engine if you can't get access for the tools)
CAUTION do not put excessive stress on the EXHAUST FLEXI PIPE
Fit the pully wheel holding tool behind the chassis leg an locate the prongs into the cut outs
Get the breaker bar and 21mm socket to fit squarely on the multipoint bolt
Hold the pulley wheel stationary and undo the crank shaft bolt
Refit the bolt loosely with some washers behind it to stop it colliding with the raised blip on the timing belt lower pulley. Any old spacers will do.
On top of the engine take off the coils or HT leads and remove spark plugs put the Coils/HT's back in their wells
Return to gaining access to the timing belt, remove top plastic cover, engine mount, engine mount bridge (fixed to the side of engine) and the lower plastic cover.
Do not screw the bolt into the raised spot, adding a couple of packing washers.
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