Sylvester
Member
Hi all, I'm leaving the country in a few months, some of you might've seen my A2 is already on sale, after 4.5 years of ownership 
and as an appreciation for years of help from A2OC community, here's a relatively easy way to change the gearbox oil. This is for 1.4 AUA, but should be the same for all A2s, apart from 1.2 automatic.
Gearbox oil is recommended to be changed after 10 years. It's not really in the manuals, as companies don't really care what happens to the car parts after that, as they're out of warranty.
If you've been holding back as might seem complicated, this is an easy way with plenty of pictures, and can be done on a ramp.
Tools needed:
-Ramps and basic tools to remove undertray (make sure the bumper doesn't touch)
-2L Gear box oil, 75W Full synthetic is recommended (not the same as engine oil!)
-Spline Socket Bit M16 1/2"Sq Drive - SX107
-Big size wrench with extention
-Adjustable or open wrench (size maybe 12)
-Oil Suction Syringe Pump
-Tray/small bucket fits under the car and can hold few litres of liquid
--Eye protection is a must, mouth mask is recommended
Try to do this shortly after driving, so the gearbox oil is warm and drains easier.
Drive up on the ramp, remove undertray.
Put the "M16 1/2"Sq Drive" on a compatible big wrench, and look for these 2 bolts.
First anti-clockwise undo the top filler plug, not the bottom plug, as if the top one is stuck, you won't be able to fill it back up!
The filler plug could be well stuck, might need a lot of force, but should still come out, just mind your hands around the parts, as there's not a lot of room. To me it was the opposite, top took me a minute, but the bottom plug like 15 minutes.
When drain plug almost loose, place bucket in place, and wait 5 minutes for the oil to drain. It'll be very dark and might even see water marks in it.
This is the size of the plug. Both are the same size, and reusable due their very fine threads. When oil had drained, clean up the area and put drain plug back on, literally to match the outside dark marks on it. Recycle centre usually puts old gearbox oil where the paints go, I'd marked them up too.
Then get the suction syringe, and get fresh oil half filled. Don't fill it up full, as it'll make it easier to maneuver it around.
Hold the syringe flat, so it doesn't leak through the tube, even bend it backwards a bit, while climbing under the car. Protecting your face is necessary.
Use the space between the alloy spokes to move the back of the extended syringe, and place the front just over the flex-pipe, then guide the tube in to the filler hole. Make sure it sits in the filler, not on the threads, there's like 2cm// 3/4" space, and slowly add the fresh oil. Do this a few times, don't rush it. The whole gearbox should take around 1.8 litres.
After repeating it 3-4 times, the oil will slowly start to leak out, which means that side is done.
Clean up area and screw filler plug back in place.
If you're on a car lift, and not on a ramp, put the undertray back on, and you're done.
If you're on ramps, the engine angles upwards a bit, so the oil amount is less than supposed to be. Easiest way to measure it, is to get a 2 litres jug and tilted as much as the car's angle up on the ramp. The amount of liquid would pour out, is a bit less than the extra amount you need to fill up. It'd be around 200ml. Don't add more than necessary, as extra oil can damage the gearbox parts!
To fill up the missing gearbox oil, unplug the reverse light switch sensor at the front of the engine, the connector lock is on top, and unscrew the switch. You'll need an adjustable wrench, which I'd used, or an open wrench, size around 12. No oil will leak out, unless it's way too full.
This hole is smaller, the syringe tube may not fit in properly, so just hold it against it and add the missing amount, extra hand could be useful. This can be fiddly due lack of space, so make sure to only add the missing amount and not more! Bit less is better than much more.
When done, screw and plug switch back on, clean up, check for any leakages, and put undertray back. Job done.
TIP: With undertray off, good time to e.g: change airfilter, change oil or check out the hoses by the firewall, as they'd come off their hooks and rub holes on them, I'd to patch up a few of them with Amalgamating tape.
After gearbox oil change, I hadn't really noticed much difference to be honest, maybe a bit smoother upshifting, but the oil was very dark, and water could get into it, especially after 20 years, so it's a good idea to get it done.
As per usual, do the job at your own risk, if you aren't sure, let a mechanic do it for you.
--------
The A2OC community has been truly outstanding! Thank you for all the help I've received over the years! All the best, Goodbye
and as an appreciation for years of help from A2OC community, here's a relatively easy way to change the gearbox oil. This is for 1.4 AUA, but should be the same for all A2s, apart from 1.2 automatic.Gearbox oil is recommended to be changed after 10 years. It's not really in the manuals, as companies don't really care what happens to the car parts after that, as they're out of warranty.
If you've been holding back as might seem complicated, this is an easy way with plenty of pictures, and can be done on a ramp.
Tools needed:
-Ramps and basic tools to remove undertray (make sure the bumper doesn't touch)
-2L Gear box oil, 75W Full synthetic is recommended (not the same as engine oil!)
-Spline Socket Bit M16 1/2"Sq Drive - SX107
-Big size wrench with extention
-Adjustable or open wrench (size maybe 12)
-Oil Suction Syringe Pump
-Tray/small bucket fits under the car and can hold few litres of liquid
--Eye protection is a must, mouth mask is recommended
Try to do this shortly after driving, so the gearbox oil is warm and drains easier.
Drive up on the ramp, remove undertray.
Put the "M16 1/2"Sq Drive" on a compatible big wrench, and look for these 2 bolts.
First anti-clockwise undo the top filler plug, not the bottom plug, as if the top one is stuck, you won't be able to fill it back up!
The filler plug could be well stuck, might need a lot of force, but should still come out, just mind your hands around the parts, as there's not a lot of room. To me it was the opposite, top took me a minute, but the bottom plug like 15 minutes.
When drain plug almost loose, place bucket in place, and wait 5 minutes for the oil to drain. It'll be very dark and might even see water marks in it.
This is the size of the plug. Both are the same size, and reusable due their very fine threads. When oil had drained, clean up the area and put drain plug back on, literally to match the outside dark marks on it. Recycle centre usually puts old gearbox oil where the paints go, I'd marked them up too.
Then get the suction syringe, and get fresh oil half filled. Don't fill it up full, as it'll make it easier to maneuver it around.
Hold the syringe flat, so it doesn't leak through the tube, even bend it backwards a bit, while climbing under the car. Protecting your face is necessary.
Use the space between the alloy spokes to move the back of the extended syringe, and place the front just over the flex-pipe, then guide the tube in to the filler hole. Make sure it sits in the filler, not on the threads, there's like 2cm// 3/4" space, and slowly add the fresh oil. Do this a few times, don't rush it. The whole gearbox should take around 1.8 litres.
After repeating it 3-4 times, the oil will slowly start to leak out, which means that side is done.
Clean up area and screw filler plug back in place.
If you're on a car lift, and not on a ramp, put the undertray back on, and you're done.
If you're on ramps, the engine angles upwards a bit, so the oil amount is less than supposed to be. Easiest way to measure it, is to get a 2 litres jug and tilted as much as the car's angle up on the ramp. The amount of liquid would pour out, is a bit less than the extra amount you need to fill up. It'd be around 200ml. Don't add more than necessary, as extra oil can damage the gearbox parts!
To fill up the missing gearbox oil, unplug the reverse light switch sensor at the front of the engine, the connector lock is on top, and unscrew the switch. You'll need an adjustable wrench, which I'd used, or an open wrench, size around 12. No oil will leak out, unless it's way too full.
This hole is smaller, the syringe tube may not fit in properly, so just hold it against it and add the missing amount, extra hand could be useful. This can be fiddly due lack of space, so make sure to only add the missing amount and not more! Bit less is better than much more.
When done, screw and plug switch back on, clean up, check for any leakages, and put undertray back. Job done.
TIP: With undertray off, good time to e.g: change airfilter, change oil or check out the hoses by the firewall, as they'd come off their hooks and rub holes on them, I'd to patch up a few of them with Amalgamating tape.
After gearbox oil change, I hadn't really noticed much difference to be honest, maybe a bit smoother upshifting, but the oil was very dark, and water could get into it, especially after 20 years, so it's a good idea to get it done.
As per usual, do the job at your own risk, if you aren't sure, let a mechanic do it for you.
--------
The A2OC community has been truly outstanding! Thank you for all the help I've received over the years! All the best, Goodbye
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