Timing Belt Petrol BBY Replacement

[Deleted member 20348]

-Timing Belt Petrol BBY Engine-
PART ONE

ACCESSmanualsSAFETYpartstimeTORQUE​

Hello and welcome to this guide written to be used alongside the manual and self study document.

Workshop Manual
Audi A2 2001
4-cyl. petrol injection engine (1.4 Ltr), mechanics
Engine ID AUA BBY
Edition 11.2015

Self-study programme 247
AUDI A2 - Engine and Gearbox
Design and Function

The manual is available to download at the AUDI ERWIN website or ask around on the forum for one.
I wish you the best of luck with your timing belt project for the AUA/BBY 1.4 petrol engine
NOTE
To carry out this work good basic skill using hand tools is beneficial.
The list below can be used to identify both common and uncommon tools used in this project.

Thanks to @GJ* and their post that formed the backbone for my post.

DIY cambelt replacement

Having found these forums a useful source of information I thought I’d share the experience of changing the cambelts on my A2 1.4 petrol in the hope that it is of use to someone. If you are a competent DIY mechanic then the job is quite straightforward and no special tools are required. They...

www.a2oc.net

Tools

• The Audi A2 Workshop Manual for the AUA / BBY Engine
• Camshaft locking pin tool
• 21mm Multipoint socket
• Long breaker bar & extensions
• Torque wrench
• Crankshaft pully holding tool
• Spring clip tool
• Small and medium ratchet sets
• Torx bits & Allen keys
• Spanners & screwdrivers
• Jack & Axle stands
• Bucket for coolant

Prepare the car

NOTE: Car needs to be on the second peg of the axle stands to gain enough space to use a breaker bar under the car.

Disconnect the battery, chock rear wheels, loosen drivers side wheel bolts, jack up the car and place on axle stands, remove drivers wheel
Remove bonnet, undertray and drivers wheel arch liner
Remove drivers headlight, air intake pipes from airbox up to the skuttle
Hold parts out the way of the working area with zip ties (you'll need space to work)

The next job is to remove the alternator belt by releasing the tensioner to free the belt.

At this point have a look around to see if you have missed anything, check the car is high enough off the ground and well planted on the axle stands and going nowhere.

Working under the car release the lower radiator hose and drain the coolant into the bucket and replace the hose.

Carefully remove the dip stick and put it somewhere safe. Press the two tabs to unclip the dip stick tube where it meets the slam panel and do the same with the oil filler tube.

Grab a jack and piece of wood and set it up with the wood between the sump and the jack pad (mind out for the oil sensor don't crush that)

Challenging section

Get the crank shaft pully holding tool, 21mm multipoint socket, long breaker bar and optional a short extension. If you've got 1/2 braker bar that will flex less but it is not necessary.
You need to be ready for this part as it requres a lot of physical force to free the bolt.

With the engine safely supported by the jack loosen the drives side engine mount. (Totally remove the engine mount and lower the engine if you can't get access for the tools)
CAUTION do not put excessive stress on the EXHAUST FLEXI PIPE
Fit the pully wheel holding tool behind the chassis leg an locate the prongs into the cut outs
Get the breaker bar and 21mm socket to fit squarely on the multipoint bolt
Hold the pulley wheel stationary and undo the crank shaft bolt

Refit the bolt loosely with some washers behind it to stop it colliding with the raised blip on the timing belt lower pulley. Any old spacers will do.

On top of the engine take off the coils or HT leads and remove spark plugs put the Coils/HT's back in their wells

Return to gaining access to the timing belt, remove top plastic cover, engine mount, engine mount bridge (fixed to the side of engine) and the lower plastic cover.

Do not screw the bolt into the raised spot, adding a couple of packing washers.

 

[Deleted member 20348]

-Timing Belt Petrol BBY Engine-
PART TWO
The Timing Markers
​

To recap all of the parts have been removed from the side of the engine and its sitting safely on the jack and block of wood.
Paint pens can be used to highlight the three timing positions.

One
Mark the crank pulley cut out tooth and the corresponding tiny line on the engine casing, which can be seen in the second image.

The tooth has a slope to its profile

Two & Three
Mark the exhaust and inlet manifold cam pulleys locating pin holes.

The dowl pin locating tool will be used to lock the pulleys in place

Alternatively 8mm drill bits can be used instead of the tool.
NOTE Insert the blunt end through the locating holes.

Before removing the belt tensioner check your set up look something like this.

If it doesn't match then rotate the crank pulley once more.


Its that simple just three things to check before you move to the next step.

NOTE
Please make sure your battery is disconnected as your about to take the timing belt off.

 

[Deleted member 20348]

-Timing Belt Petrol BBY Engine-
PART THREE
Swapping to the new belts​

Remove the cam pin tool or 8mm drill bits.
The main timing belt tensioner (located low down) has a 13mm low profile bolt. Loosen it, use an allen key to fully release the tension and remove the13mm bolt and pulley.
Carefully remove the timing belt from the car.

The upper belt tensioner is removed in same way as the main timing belt tensioner.
The top cams will have moved slightly, they will be aligned in a minute.
The small belt can be removed and the new one fitted.
Now use a spanner to turn the cam bolts to get them to align with the holes and put the pin tool back making sure the dowels are located into the cam cover for both pins.
The new belt needs to be taught on the upper side with the slack on the underside.
Fit the new upper tensioner, adjust it and tighten the 13mm nut.

NOTE
The two belt tensioners are of differing designs but both have similarities as they use a moving dial indicator to show the correct tension has been applied to the belt. The dial needs to line up with a marker.

A full timing belt kit will have the parts listed below.
Swap the old for new and put a paint pen mark on each bolt once you have torqued it to specification.

Kit Contains

• 2 x Belts
• Bolts
• 2 x tensioners
• 2 x idler rollers
• Water pump

NOTE
The water pump cover has a 10mm bolt up top, remove that first.
The pump includes this plastic cover as both are held to the engine with same hex bolts.
Clean the gasket mating surface and fit the new pump and gasket.

The Timing Belt

Fit the belt anti clockwise.
Start at the water pump and work around each pulley.
You will have to push upwards and forwards evenly to work the belt onto the top pulley.
The lower crank pulley can move off the timing mark when your fitting the belt.
Setting up the lower main belt tensioner in outlined in the pictures below.

NOTE
When tightening the 13mm bolt the dial would shift. To combat this try holding the allen key still and while at the same time tightening the low profile bolt.

NOTE
Belt configuration (Audi Self Study Programme 247)

Checking the work
Remove the locating pins from the cams and rotate the engine crank pulley slowly clockwise twice.
Align the lower crank pully with the mark on the engine case
Refit the timing pins, they should slot in

 

[Deleted member 20348]

-Timing Belt Petrol BBY Engine-
PART FOUR
Refit the parts​

Double check the main timing belt lower tensioner by applying firm thumb pressure to belt and watch for the pointer on the tensioner spring back and forth.

One last time remove the locating pins and turn the crank shaft pully two full rotations and check that the timing marks are still perfect.

Remove the jack and piece of wood.

If all is well the next job is to remove the crank pully bolt and fit the lower plastic cover, don't screw cover on just yet.
Fit the crank shaft pulley wheel and align the hole over the raised bump.

Check that the cam locating pins have been removed and fit the crank shaft pulley wheel locking tool.

Audi ask for the crank pulley bolt to be renewed, use the torque that corresponds to your bolt type.

That is the hard part over with the possible exception of fitting the auxiliary belt.

Keep working up the side of the engine fit the engine mount bridge and engine mount. Secure the upper and lower plastic covers.

Make a note of the date and millage on the timing belt cover or the sticker that came with the kit.

The coolant is empty and now is a good time to do the thermostat and temperature sensors if they are old.

Filling the coolant system, check the hoses are secure, open the bleed screws and refill checking for leaks, watch for emerging coolant from bleed screws.

With the car still on axle stands check wheel chocks are in place and the handbrake is applied. Put it in neutral and turn the key to ACC.
Set the heater blower on high heat. Get ready to start the car but be ready to switch it off if it doesn't sound right.

Start the car.......

There are many ways to maintain and revive an A2 remember to follow your own path.

 

[Deleted member 20348]

The camshaft cover has 15 hex bolts holding it down.

To improve access remove all the items off the alloy cover before removing the cover itself.
Use the correct sized Allen key. Clean the cover and write the torque sequence on the cover numbers 1 to 15.

Camcover torque sequence

Check the workshop manual for the removal sequence. At this stage only loosen and retighten each bolt to free up the threads.
NOTE
Do not be tempted to remove the bolts just yet.

Once the 15 bolts are freed from their threads your can the remove fully with ease.

Rock the casing cover side to side while using a rubber mallet to tap the casing.
Remove cam cover and set it down on the bench.
Inspect the cams for ware and clean the cover and engine mating surfaces in preparation for installation.
I used a jointing compound made by Well Seal on reassembly.

You may want to do this job if your experiencing

• Noisey valve train and are replacing worn parts
• Oil in the spark plug wells

Use new bolts on reassembly and follow the two stage torque specifications in the manual.

It's well worth building in the job if your planning a timing belt service.

Engine valve train

Camshaft integrated in the cover design

 

[Chris Warren]

Great guide! VW came up with a ridiculously over complicated design. When I helped Ed Reed do his a couple of weeks ago I made up a ‘C’ shaped locking tool that engages in the teeth of the flywheel once the starter had been removed. Tried a workshop impact gun on the crank bolt but it wouldn’t budge. Ended up with a breaker bar and a length of steel tube.

 

[a2a]

I'm just following this helpful guide now. Would you use any threadlock on these bolts in the cambelt kit?

 

[a2a]

I successfully followed this guide today to complete my first cam belt change in 20 years (Back then I would have had my engineer father to hand too).

Effectively approaching this as a newbie, I jotted down some points to add to this guide to help others:

1. The crank pulley bolt is torque to yield (i.e. single use) but one didn't come in my Continental / INA cam belt key. The one you need is N91048701 from Audi (£6.60) or Autodoc list a Continental one as part number MS53. I had to order one in as my local spares places - even those trade places that supply garages same day - didn't have one in stock.
   
   
2. I wish I'd marked the cam pulleys against the backing plate / cam cover before removing the small belt (more on that below).
   
   
3. Even though I'd drained the coolant from the radiator, I wasn't prepared for the amount of coolant that poured out when I removed the water pump. There was me with a rag, and I should have had a washing up bowl!
   
   
4. The top tensioner turns anti-clockwise to tension it, which is the opposite way to the main one. Had me scratching my head for a while!
   
   
5. I struggled fitting and timing the upper small belt that runs between the cams:
   • Although I had the proper cam locking tool, I didn't find it very useful at times. It got in the way. Once I understood what it was trying to do, I used some shorter 8mm bolts.
     
     
   • With the cams locked, I was expecting an exact fit of the belt. That's not the case. There's plenty of movement of the cams still, which you actually need to get the belt on (it's quite tight). This video shows how to get it on - note he actually has one cam unlocked and goes off his marks:
     
     
   • Allow for the fact the pulleys will rotate when tensioned (same goes for the main belt).

I found this video helpful:

As my pulley holder hadn't arrived, I had to improvise with a ratchet strap and bike inner tube My big impact gun would not shift that bolt!

 

[rasA2]

I successfully followed this guide today to replace my first cam belt change in 20 years (Back then I would have had my engineer father to hand too).

Effectively approaching this as a newbie, I jotted down some points to add to this guide to help others:

1. The crank pulley bolt is torque to yield (i.e. single use) but one didn't come in my Continental / INA cam belt key. The one you need is N91048701 from Audi (£6.60) or Autodoc list a Continental one as part number MS53. I had to order one in as my local spares places - even those trade places that supply garages same day - didn't have one in stock.
   
   
2. I wish I'd marked the cam pulleys against the backing plate / cam cover before removing the small belt (more on that below).
   
   
3. Even though I'd drained the coolant from the radiator, I wasn't prepared for the amount of coolant that poured out when I removed the water pump. There was me with a rag, and I should have had a washing up bowl!
   
   
4. The top tensioner turns anti-clockwise to tension it, which is the opposite way to the main one. Had me scratching my head for a while!
   
   
5. I struggled fitting and timing the upper small belt that runs between the cams:
   • Although I had the proper cam locking tool, I didn't find it very useful at times. It got in the way. Once I understood what it was trying to do, I used some shorter 8mm bolts.
     
     
   • With the cams locked, I was expecting an exact fit of the belt. That's not the case. There's plenty of movement of the cams still, which you actually need to get the belt on (it's quite tight). This video shows how to get it on - note he actually has one cam unlocked and goes off his marks:
     
     
   • Allow for the fact the pulleys will rotate when tensioned (same goes for the main belt).

I found this video helpful:

As my pulley holder hadn't arrived, I had to improvise with a ratchet strap and bike inner tube My big impact gun would not shift that bolt!

View attachment 122670


View attachment 122671

Well done!!!

Out of interest what's the nM on the Dewalt impact? Do you know if the timing belt been changed before?

 

[a2a]

Well done!!!

Out of interest what's the nM on the Dewalt impact? Do you know if the timing belt been changed before?

Thanks!

The Dewalt impact is 950Nm max, but it wasn't enough to get that crank bolt off.

Service history says cam belt was last done in 2008 () but the belt and pulleys that came off today were good as new. Not sure how I feel about that

 

[rasA2]

Thanks!

The Dewalt impact is 950Nm max, but it wasn't enough to get that crank bolt off.

Service history says cam belt was last done in 2008 () but the belt and pulleys that came off today were good as new. Not sure how I feel about that

Damn i have the same dewalt as you oh dear I've just bought that! i must admit the impact drills they are using look really heavy duty. I saw both those videos.
How long did it take you all in all?

 

[a2a]

Damn i have the same dewalt as you oh dear I've just bought that! i must admit the impact drills they are using look really heavy duty. I saw both those videos.
How long did it take you all in all?

It took me about 10 hours in total, but I wasn't rushing and would definitely be faster a second time.

I think if you want a bigger gun you're looking at an air gun like an Ingersoll Rand Titanium, but it's not necessary for a DIY mechanic, a breaker bar will do just fine.