Vorsprung durch Technik
A2OC Donor
Great news, i knew you were so close!! ?
It may be useful to treat the engine to a flush with Wynn’s engine flush before the oil changeOk so that rattly/tappety/diesel noise on the first few seconds of the engine startup seems to be normal thenas described by @PlasticMac, @Andrew and other members on the forum reports.
I might have exaggerated when I said 10min for the dash temp sensor to reach the 90* C mark. In fact it’s faster than that, I just was in the safe side.
For the minor misfiring issues, I only changed one Injector maybe the other three are about to give up? Or maybe, as @A2 Louis said in the beginning of this thread, the HPFP might not operate 100% perfectly.
Anyway, as I need the car to be drivable, I will live with that for the time being. I’ve spent too much money on this already so I’ll leave it be for the moment. On the next oil service (10 000km) I will consider again replacing the 3 remaining Injectors, HPFP and others parts that I already have in my possession (such as the Oil Pressure Sensor and the Thermostat).
I’ll keep you posted no matter what.
Julian
Ok so that rattly/tappety/diesel noise on the first few seconds of the engine startup seems to be normal thenas described by @PlasticMac, @Andrew and other members on the forum reports.
I might have exaggerated when I said 10min for the dash temp sensor to reach the 90* C mark. In fact it’s faster than that, I just was in the safe side.
For the minor misfiring issues, I only changed one Injector maybe the other three are about to give up? Or maybe, as @A2 Louis said in the beginning of this thread, the HPFP might not operate 100% perfectly.
Anyway, as I need the car to be drivable, I will live with that for the time being. I’ve spent too much money on this already so I’ll leave it be for the moment. On the next oil service (10 000km) I will consider again replacing the 3 remaining Injectors, HPFP and others parts that I already have in my possession (such as the Oil Pressure Sensor and the Thermostat).
I’ll keep you posted no matter what.
Julian
Hi, Terrific work. I found that when I replaced the G28 crankshaft position sensor the start-up rattle became much quieter. It's a pig of a job though so not one to do in a rush. It's just possible to get access by removing the inlet manifold support bracket, PCV/oil separator and disconnecting the inboard end of the driver's side driveshaft. Be careful, it's very easy to round-off the support bracket or G28 fixings by using the wrong Allen key/Torx/spline tool. Also, although your car is pulling well, for anyone who is experiencing poor torque at low speed it's worth changing the camshaft position sensor.Ok so that rattly/tappety/diesel noise on the first few seconds of the engine startup seems to be normal thenas described by @PlasticMac, @Andrew and other members on the forum reports.
I might have exaggerated when I said 10min for the dash temp sensor to reach the 90* C mark. In fact it’s faster than that, I just was in the safe side.
For the minor misfiring issues, I only changed one Injector maybe the other three are about to give up? Or maybe, as @A2 Louis said in the beginning of this thread, the HPFP might not operate 100% perfectly.
Anyway, as I need the car to be drivable, I will live with that for the time being. I’ve spent too much money on this already so I’ll leave it be for the moment. On the next oil service (10 000km) I will consider again replacing the 3 remaining Injectors, HPFP and others parts that I already have in my possession (such as the Oil Pressure Sensor and the Thermostat).
I’ll keep you posted no matter what.
Julian
Great posts. Have you made any progress on the misfire? I ask because I too have a P0300/P0303/P0304 flashing EML, even after putting in new ign. coils, sparks on 3&4 and a new camshaft sensor. I don't know what to do next. I am intrigued by the HP fuel pump solution because that is what I'm considering.Ok so that rattly/tappety/diesel noise on the first few seconds of the engine startup seems to be normal thenas described by @PlasticMac, @Andrew and other members on the forum reports.
I might have exaggerated when I said 10min for the dash temp sensor to reach the 90* C mark. In fact it’s faster than that, I just was in the safe side.
For the minor misfiring issues, I only changed one Injector maybe the other three are about to give up? Or maybe, as @A2 Louis said in the beginning of this thread, the HPFP might not operate 100% perfectly.
Anyway, as I need the car to be drivable, I will live with that for the time being. I’ve spent too much money on this already so I’ll leave it be for the moment. On the next oil service (10 000km) I will consider again replacing the 3 remaining Injectors, HPFP and others parts that I already have in my possession (such as the Oil Pressure Sensor and the Thermostat).
I’ll keep you posted no matter what.
Julian
That's an intimidating sounding job but I'm getting desperate so I may give it a go. Could you tell how your wires had broken? Were they frayed or over-stretched or chewed or...?Have you tried stripping the Loom back off the coils. I have just done this on my 1.4 Petrol and found 4 broken wires. I stripped each one right back to the main part of the loom connector the wires were broken on cylinder 2 and 4. I got some heat shrink sleeve and a heat gun to repair them then new black wiring tape to re-do the loom back. Not had a misfire code since beginning of Jan and runs a lot smoother. I have been struggling with misfire issues since I got mine now looks all resolved.. Hope this helps. Graham
It sounds hard but really easy to do. Just take the plugs off the coils undo it from the clips and follow the wires back to just under the header tank. All you are doing is undoing the black wire protector off the loom so you can see all 4 wires that go into the plugs. If you undo it all you might see split wires so you can see the copper in the wire that's where the problems are EXPOSED wires...That's an intimidating sounding job but I'm getting desperate so I may give it a go. Could you tell how your wires had broken? Were they frayed or over-stretched or chewed or...?
good luck with the hunt for the misfire, i'm sure you've tried the easy stuff like swapping coil packs. as mentioned above definately check the wiring to the coil pack, its easy for the insulation to get split near the connector if the coilpacks are levered out without disconnecting, then they short out and misfires occur.VW Golf MK4 1.6 Fsi 110 bhp engine code BAD. Got same problem on cylinder 3 and same like you xhuli spent over 1,5k euro till now trying to fix the car. Ive make it to run a bit better but is not a fix. I don't know what to do more and here is an inspiration . You changed alot more pieces than me and idk maybe we find what is the problem with this engine type. Also PM you @xhuli
Thanks guys and hope is not a problem if i'm here since is other car but same engine, same group, same parts used.
Yes done that first, and i think is beyond that probably bent valves or worse broken segments. Also i didn't scan it in last 2 weeks after i've changed more parts, i'll do it when i can, still working 12h shifts and i need the fk car to work. You ment to check how many missfire goes with each cylinder and the amount of fuel that each injector spit?good luck with the hunt for the misfire, i'm sure you've tried the easy stuff like swapping coil packs. as mentioned above definately check the wiring to the coil pack, its easy for the insulation to get split near the connector if the coilpacks are levered out without disconnecting, then they short out and misfires occur.