Pro Boost FSI remap

PlasticMac said:
Anyone know if there is any manual adjustment/check to valve clearance on the FSI?
Mac.
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The FSI has hydraulic lifters, so adjustment is by oil pressure. Lifters will be compressed by the valve spring pressure when the engine is at rest, allowing valves to close. When the engine starts oil pressure opens the lifters, but it takes a short time.

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Jellybean said:
So is just lazy lifters? Flushed my engine but no real improvement.

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I believe from looking at the lupo is in relation to the VVT on the inlet side needing to oil pressure to hit the correct timing


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The remapped ECU's have just arrived from Germany. PM's on their way to the next 4 on the waiting list.

Please get in touch if anyone else would like a Pro Boost map, I have slots available on the next order.
 
Jeetesh said:
I’ve spent a lot of time reading around FSI’s and possibly confused myself in the process. I did start a thread on carbon build up and if my endoscope ever arrives I want to monitor any buildup periodically. If it gets bad then walnut blast before the onset of any issues. Colour dis is useful as I can monitor oil and coolant temperature along with other measures to ensure everything is within parameters. I’m keen on trying to prevent any issues before they arise.

I’m assuming at 50k miles everything has been in good working order?
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Hi jeetesh
Am new but am looking into carbon cleaning. Now Walnut blast ? is this better than a TeraClean?
 
Chand said:
Hi jeetesh
Am new but am looking into carbon cleaning. Now Walnut blast ? is this better than a TeraClean?
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Welcome to the forum @Chand

I had a quick look at your profile and see you have an FSI with 71-80k miles. Do you have a misfire issue or is this just something that that you just want to get done?

In answer to your question I don’t know which is better as I don’t have experience of either. I came to the conclusion after lots of reading that I’d rather do the walnut blast as the it seemed to do what I wanted and the ground walnut was abrasive rather than chemical based cleaning. The chemicals used in TerraClean I’d read have a negative effect on certain components (I think brass ones) which is why I was erring towards walnut blast.

what are your thoughts so far on TerraClean vs walnut blast?
 
@Chand , we'd like to understand the thinking behind your plans to clean the inlet manifold. If a scan shows errors associated with flap functionality, then that's justification. If no flap errors, I'd leave well alone, and use 98/99 octane fuel, Shell V Power being my choice for my FSI.
It would be great to share a scan here. I'm in North Hampshire, close to M3, J5, and could scan it, if that helps.

Edit: This would have to be in the future, as we're in the dodgy (CV19) group.
Mac.
 
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Evening guys

I’ve had a few customers asking how to change the ECU and they’ve been a bit cautious of doing it themselves.

Now I’m more than aware of my own limitations when it comes to cars, but to show that anyone can do this, I’ve done it with one hand.

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Refitting is just the reversal of the procedure.
 
Hi Fitted my ECU today! One question. The re-map results in a "reduction of the coolant temperature from 105-100c to 90-96c to prevent the plastic coolant pipes from cracking". My temp gauge still sits firmly on 90c as it always has done. Should I have expected to see a lower reading with the re-map? I have also read the exchanges on the thermostat operation but I don't follow the logic. The thermostat doesn't influence the running temperature, just the point the water flows into the radiator. The alternative is I have lost the plot ;)
 
EdinA2 said:
Hi Fitted my ECU today! One question. The re-map results in a "reduction of the coolant temperature from 105-100c to 90-96c to prevent the plastic coolant pipes from cracking". My temp gauge still sits firmly on 90c as it always has done. Should I have expected to see a lower reading with the re-map? I have also read the exchanges on the thermostat operation but I don't follow the logic. The thermostat doesn't influence the running temperature, just the point the water flows into the radiator. The alternative is I have lost the plot ;)
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There is apparently a magnet at the 90c mark which keeps the gauge there without it fluctuating too much (I think I read that here somewhere). I know that I have colour DIS which gives me oil/coolant/inlet temperature and I trust colour DIS and not the gauge which it sits at 90c all the time. My FSI tends to sit at 104-109 with 109 being in stop start traffic once warm
 
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Indeed the standard gauge on an FSI will show 90degC as the operating temperature, even when running at the higher temps.
This was most likely to allay fears of excessive operating temperature by owners. What they dont know won't hurt!

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Yep, Audi got it to display 90 even though it was running closer to 110 because they didn’t want people to worry when seeing such a high figure on the gauge.

As for how the remap manages to do that, if I knew that I would be a far richer man than I am now ?
 
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I'm guessing here, but since the thermostat in the FSI is opened and closed electronically, the remap simply opens it earlier (at a lower temperature) than the OEM map. Hence the engine runs cooler. The clever bit is getting the cooler running engine close to the thermal efficiency of the OEM's higher temperature.
I think the temperature indication weighting to 90C is done in the ECU software. Not 100% sure though.
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
I'm guessing here, but since the thermostat in the FSI is opened and closed electronically, the remap simply opens it earlier (at a lower temperature) than the OEM map. Hence the engine runs cooler. The clever bit is getting the cooler running engine close to the thermal efficiency of the OEM's higher temperature.
I think the temperature indication weighting to 90C is done in the ECU software. Not 100% sure though.
Mac.
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Your are correct on the first point - the ecu tells the thermostat to open a little earlier to achieve the cooler running )if you can call 95 deg cool)
It must be the gauge on the fsi that is calibrated to show 90 deg needle vertical when the coolant is actually at 106 ish
Audi most likely designed into the gauge a load of hysteresis around the 90deg zone. Customers expect to see the engine operating at optimal temp ie 90deg. As was said earlier what they don’t know will not hurt them
This must be done in the instrument cluster because the ecu is feed with a different signal from the engine temp sender unit it having two circuits one for the ecu and the other for the gauge in the instrument cluster

Paul


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depronman said:
Your are correct on the first point - the ecu tells the thermostat to open a little earlier to achieve the cooler running )if you can call 95 deg cool)
It must be the gauge on the fsi that is calibrated to show 90 deg needle vertical when the coolant is actually at 106 ish
Audi most likely designed into the gauge a load of hysteresis around the 90deg zone. Customers expect to see the engine operating at optimal temp ie 90deg. As was said earlier what they don’t know will not hurt them
This must be done in the instrument cluster because the ecu is feed with a different signal from the engine temp sender unit it having two circuits one for the ecu and the other for the gauge in the instrument cluster

Paul


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So, dash pod ecu software then?
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
So, dash pod ecu software then?
Mac.
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If by ecu software you mean the instrument cluster- then yes
But ecu normally means the engine ecu in this context and the engine ecu will have no effect on the coolant being at 95 and the gauge reading a nominal 90 or for that matter the coolant being at 109 and the gauge reading 90 - this is all handled in the instrument cluster

Cheers. Paul


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Correct; all A2 instrument clusters have a 'magnetic temperature needle' that snaps to 90 degrees if the true temperature is close to that (or, in the case of the FSI, in a larger temperature range above 90 degrees). The instrument cluster is fed the true data, but its own software irons out any fluctuations.

Jeetesh said:
I have colour DIS which gives me oil/coolant/inlet temperature and I trust colour DIS
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You're absolutely right to trust Colour DIS over the standard temperature display. It's telling you the truth. :)

Cheers,

Tom
 
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A2Steve said:
Good evening all

I’m now officially an FSI owner and as with my other projects, upon purchase I immediately started looking at ways to improve it.

My biggest concern with owning an FSI were the well documented running issues. My research in this area led me to a post back in 2018 on this forum with mention of a remap being used by the German forum that eliminated a lot of the issues associated with the FSI.

The journey of this remap started in 2015 when the German club a2-freun.de approached an established tuning company in Germany called Pro Boost. Prior to being approached by the Club, Pro Boost had not heard of the FSI engine fitted in the A2 or of the problems associated with it.

The FSI runs in 2 settings, stratified and homogenous. A video explaining this process is available here

Pro Boost did some initial research on a used ECU and then agreed to take in a member’s car from the club to develop software that eliminated as many of the associated problems as possible. The software was ready by June 2016. At that stage they offered 2 stages of remap:

Stage 1 –
Shutting off the stratified injection, running homogenous mode only
Egr valve permanently closed to prevent clogging the intake side of the engine
Swirl flaps always in the open position to prevent seizing of the mechanism
Deactivation of the NOx catalyst and sensor. With the car not running in lean stratified mode anymore, they are no longer needed.
Reduction of the coolant temperature from 105-100c to 90-96c to prevent the plastic coolant pipes from cracking.

Stage 2 was planned to gain additional torque and power. It contained stage 1 options plus

Optimised camshaft maps
Optimised ignition angles

Testing of the stage 1 map went well with great results reported, but with the use of the stage 2 settings, a number of cars were experiencing issues with knock and the cars were then retarding the ignition to prevent this. This was found to be as a result of the age of the injectors on certain cars and so stage 2 was shelved. The successful optimised camshaft mapping was retained however and added to stage one.

So there is now only one remap and it has the following features –

Shutting off the stratified injection, running homogenous mode only

EGR valve permanently closed to prevent clogging the intake side of the engine

Swirl flaps always in the open position to prevent seizing of the mechanism

Deactivation of the NOx catalyst and sensor.

With the car not running in lean stratified mode anymore, they are no longer needed.

Reduction of the coolant temperature from 105-100c to 90-96c to prevent the plastic coolant pipes from cracking

Optimised camshaft maps

The mapping process adjusts the settings within the ECU so that no engine management light will be triggered by the settings it runs. The engine management light will however still be triggered by other engine faults it identifies. In essence, you won’t lose the functionality of the EML system.

Whilst performance gains will be experienced due to the flaps running fully open and camshaft modifications, this map is marketed more as a preventative measure to improve the longevity of the FSI and make the ownership experience less of a gauntlet.

The price of the map is 300 Euros. Depending on exchange rate, that works out at around £255.

The process for purchasing the map would be as follows:

I will order a stock of ECU’s from Pro Boost (I’m hoping for around 4 at a time).

You can place an order for an ECU from me and it will get sent out to you by courier.


You will fit the re-mapped ECU to your car and send your current ECU back to me.



In order for this process to work, the remapped ECU being sent to you will need to have an unlocked immobiliser so that it can be plug and play into your car with no coding required. This will mean that the immobiliser will no longer be active on your car. I accept that this is a downside, but it is the only way the service can be offered and I’m hoping that the benefits you receive from fitting will outweigh this issue.

To ensure that I receive an ECU back from you, there will be a surcharge on the ECU of £40, that £40 will be refunded when I receive your old ECU back in the post. Alternatively, if you wanted to keep hold of your cars original ECU, then you could purchase an FSI ECU from ebay etc and send that to me instead.

I don’t claim to be any sort of expert on FSI’s and indeed I am just starting out on my FSI journey, but I do know that the German owners club do not suffer fools and will only use the best products. Pro Boost are also an established German tuner who have a lot of experience mapping all makes and models of car (https://www.facebook.com/ProBoostEngineering/). This map has also been run by members of the German club for around 3 and a half years now with no issues reported.

I am in touch with Adrian from Pro Boost, so if anyone has more technical questions they want answered in regard to the map, then please just ask and I’ll pass the message back.

I plan to run a copy of the map once received and will report back my findings on its use.

If you would like to purchase the remap, please either reply here or send me a PM.

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Hi Steve:
What is the cost of this remap, as my FSI has a problem that makes the engine light flash then stay, my scanner shows cylinder 1 & 3 but the car runs fine 2 years ago it was doing the same, I cleaned the earth cable behind the passenger head light, the problem went for 18 months, now back
again, tried cleaning the bolt/washer but no change, I wonder if your remap can solve this issue, many thanks, Ami:mad:
 
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