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Could you bypass all that stress with a 90 degree drill attachments?
like this thing
like this thing
Maybe make a short section of bar, threaded to suit the portion of the thread above the shear point. Drill, (in a lathe), a hole in this "stud" to act as a guide to a drill bit to make a central hole in the stud. Finally, use an eezyout extractor to remove it.Could you bypass all that stress with a 90 degree drill attachments?
like this thing
Without a doubt its doable!Thank you all for your suggestions, Ill respond with pictures tomorrow.
One thing has been suggested that would possibly make this fixable without removing the head. Removing the inlet manifold.
Has anybody removed the inlet manifold without first taking the head off?
Good suggestion ?When i helicoil into aluminium i dont use the drill bit from the kit but use the a rounded down one, so if its 6.2mm for M6 Helicoil i would use a 6 mm drill bit.
Might be worth getting a piece of aluminium with a M6x1 threaded hole, overtighten a bolt to purposefully strip out the treads (to create the issue you currently have) now practice with the helicoil tap to see if this is a practicle repair without using a drill
Not sure they will crack this one, the inlet manifold is a problem.Laser 6058 are very useful sockets!
With the air scoop off and engine dropped forward a bit it has to be possible with enough will power!Not sure they will crack this one, the inlet manifold is a problem.
I can see them being useful though and just now ordered a set. Thank you.
The part that I think I need off is the inlet manifold. Will you be taking that part off?
the inlet manifold casting is a mirror image on left-hand drive A2s as the return pipe from the intercooler runs up the belt covers end of the engine similar to the pipe going to it from the turbo unlike UK cars where the return pipe does that L-shaped dog leg around the tandem-pump end of the engine. One reason for being really careful buying inlet manifolds from Ebay. The workshop manual won't be an rhd-specific diagram.Thanks again for more to consider. Ill respond to the range of suggestions later.
Woke this morning and thought I'd investigate what I think is the key to fixing this with minimal fuss; removing the inlet manifold. The job looks like just 4 screws that are torqued to just 20Nm.
View attachment 91763
Hardly confidence inspiring that the picture appears reversed. However it is still just 4 screws. Anybody got a trained octopus that could get to them? Probably not, Ill try later.
Edit, look how simple the instructions are; Unscrew bolts and remove intake manifold. I need to check but I'm assuming this is on car and not bench?
Lovely looking car, deserves all you can do for him.Got myself a problem with old Albert (TDi 75), I've stripped out two of the tapped holes that take the screws to secure the cylinder head cover. Worse still it is the two obscured by the EGR valve on the right / rear of the cylinder head. Many years ago, before I had a manual I had a persistent oil leak in that area and those two screws were tweaked many times in an attempt to stop the leak. I suspect they fatigued and clean lubricated screws were too much for the female threads at just 10 Nm.
So now I have a problem, unless the engine can be tilted forwards and I extend taps and drills I can't see how to fix this short of removing the head. Anybody got any great ideas?
I toyed with the idea of recovering him to my lockup but he is a bit too good to abandon to collect dust. I need to save him, if the head has to come off I can't start utill March.
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