Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Not yet but I will compile one.@philward may however have a ready easier to follow table than what I have posted.
Not yet but I will compile one.@philward may however have a ready easier to follow table than what I have posted.
375 k miles, sounds fantasticJust reverence I had to replace my balancer shaft with this chain job as at 375k miles it was found not to be running true as I was there I decided to replace oil pump also. This is chain number 4 no other parts on engine replaced except one turbo
So you’ve replaced the chain 4 times in that mileage? What prompted such regular changes?Just reverence I had to replace my balancer shaft with this chain job as at 375k miles it was found not to be running true as I was there I decided to replace oil pump also. This is chain number 4 no other parts on engine replaced except one turbo
LordyRob at WOM kindly sent some images of Cosmo's oil chain guide / parts changed during the engine rebuild (I figured with everything else being done it made sense to get this done as part of the work) - at 290-odd thousand miles. Plastic guides worn through to the metal and wear where the tensioner piston meets the arm. I am reasonably certain it needed doing.
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@Ami Step 6 updated with torques. Could somebody with a manual check them please? Thank you.Not yet but I will compile one.
Yep that needed doing. However if that’s the original you’ve done very well to get that mileage out of it when others have experience complete chain failure at half that mileage.Rob at WOM kindly sent some images of Cosmo's oil chain guide / parts changed during the engine rebuild (I figured with everything else being done it made sense to get this done as part of the work) - at 290-odd thousand miles. Plastic guides worn through to the metal and wear where the tensioner piston meets the arm. I am reasonably certain it needed doing.
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No evidence of it having been done previously and the maintenance record for the first owner is documented in a thick folder ; the 1.5~2 years before I picked up Cosmo are documented in various threads on A2oc. I think the main mileage was done in daily commutes up and down the A90 to Aberdeen area, so always having an opportunity to stretch the legs and warm up properly rather than local short hops - especially as the village there has literally a local shop and nothing else - even proper shopping would take a good 20 minute run up the A-road to Stonehaven or Montrose the other way.Yep that needed doing. However if that’s the original you’ve done very well to get that mileage out of it when others have experience complete chain failure at half that mileage.
It’s strange how vastly different rates of wear are evident with different cars and the denominating factor doesn’t appear to be service schedule fidelity.
I think it's how they were driven, combined with oil changes. My sprockets and chain were very good, slippers wearing. My car never missed an oil change, 1/4 mile from home the speed limit is 60 and 5 miles either way is motorway. As soon as it shows signs of warming up it gets driven hard and long. Does that count as mechanical sympathy?Wonder if it's how they are driven, driving with mechanical sympathy could be the difference here
Can you describe how it was “loud”? When and how was it rattling ?I'm pleased to report I've now completed a oil chain and tensioner change on my grey ATL90!
Thanks to @philward and all the contributors to this thread, it went well and I have no leaks .
I did mine in my garage with the car on ramps, next time though I would remove the wheel arch liner before with the wheel off.
I had 2 febi kits, one with 3 sprockets and one with just the chain and tensioner, as I have another to do in the future, I examined sprocket teeth very carefully and determined they did not need replacing. I did change the idler though as the original had a slight bit of play compared with a new one. The stuff left over I'll see if my 180K mile needs if it gets noisy.
I wanted to do this as when I removed the sump to reseal it on another job, I noticed the tensioner arm was quite far out and the chain was very close to the crankcase:
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There was also chain noise more noticeable on this car than my other, so it had to be done.
I bought the crank hold tool and after deliberation and not knowing someone with a 3D printer, I bought the T10053 seal inserter tool, I'm glad I did, the corteco seal I had bought came on its own mounting former but this wouldn't fit over the crank and if I had not bought T10053, my shampoo bottle lid would have pushed it off onto a rough bit of the crank nose.
Thankfully though I was able to transfer it to the T10053 former and this slid more onto the crank, to the clean section, and the seal was installed easily correctly.
I bought all the bolts and O rings from the list from Audi, they cost me ~ £42, not including engine mount bolts.
I did it over a number of evenings during last week, then it was road tested over about 50 miles before I could declare it leak free yesterday.
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Despite the extended tensioner, I didn't think the slipper pads were that worn compared to others on here, the car has ~168K miles.
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Again, Thanks for this thread, it gave me the encouragement to do it.
Regards
Andy
For it to rattle the chain has to hit something. In my case there was no rattling but I was aware of the risk of the chain breaking. Then one day I was driving onto a roundabout and a speeding car approached from the right. I gave Little Dog full beans, max revs to get out of the way. The rattling sound was quite loud. I suspect the revs had thrown the chain out and it caught the inside of the crank seal housing or perhaps it was bouncing around on the slipper pads.Can you describe how it was “loud”? When and how was it rattling ?