The Cameroon Line and Pico de São Tomé

timmus

A2OC Donor
Hello good people of A2OC.

At the end of December, I posted this thread - https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/logging-off-for-a-month.34352/ - declaring that I’d be off grid for a month or so. Outside of my work on A2s, I work as an audio systems engineer and had been asked to work on a recording studio in Libreville, on the Atlantic coast of Gabon. Whilst the job itself only took eight days, I spent the rest of the time exploring. I had intended on posting a load of photos immediately upon my return, but various other commitments meant that has been delayed until now.

I travelled with Martin, a life-long friend of mine who is French-speaking Belgian. My French is patchy at best and Gabon, where the audio systems job was, is a former French colony. As such, Martin took leave from his usual job and worked as my translator for a while before we resumed our regular relationship of travel companions.

Understanding Ultras

Ultra-prominent peaks, known simply as ‘Ultras’, are mountains that have topographic prominence of 1500m or more. Altitude is a simple measure of how much vertical height there is between the surface of the ocean and the summit of a mountain. Prominence, on the other hand, is a measure of how much a mountain protrudes above what’s around it.
For example, the city of Lhasa in Tibet is approximately 3600m above sea level simply because all of Tibet is at high altitude. As such, even minor bumps outside the city are of much greater altitude than almost the entirety of Europe, but their prominence is very small because they don't rise far above the surrounding landscape. By climbing one such bump, you might be at high altitude, but you don’t get a sense that you’re towering above all you survey.
If you could run your fingertip over a scaled-down model of our planet, the Ultras are the mountains you’d feel pricking your finger. There are approximately 1500 Ultras and they can be found in almost every corner of Earth, from the Sahara to Antarctica. There are no Ultras in the UK; the closest are in France's Massif Central and in Norway’s Jotunheimen region.

The Cameroon Line

Cameroon Line.jpg


The Gulf of Guinea, or ‘Africa’s Armpit’, is home to a chain of volcanoes called The Cameroon Line. Starting in mainland Cameroon, the chain of volcanoes continues far out into the South Atlantic Ocean. Five Ultras can be found here: two in Cameroon, two on the island of Bioko (which is part of Equatorial Guinea) and one on the island nation of São Tomé. Beyond the island of Annobón, the Cameroon Line only pops its head above water once more, 1300 miles further out into the ocean, where it forms the British island of St Helena (where, after his defeat at Waterloo, Napoleon was exiled until his death).

St Helena.jpg


Pico de São Tomé

São Tomé is a shield volcano that rises 5000m from seafloor to summit. It was first discovered by the Portuguese in the 15th century and was, until then, completely uninhabited. The island became a Portuguese colony and was used as part of the trans-Atlantic slave trade as well as for crop cultivation. Its location on the equator makes it ideal for sugar, coffee and cocoa cultivation. These plantations were overseen by European masters, with slaves from all over West Africa used as labour. In 1975, after various cycles of unrest, São Tomé became an independent country.
Today, São Tomé is one of the most obscure, inaccessible counties on Earth, but is supplied by air from Gabon twice a week. Given that I was in Gabon and that São Tomé is home to an Ultra, I could not miss the opportunity to go out there and explore.
Pico de São Tomé (‘The Peak of St Thomas’) is one of only 6 Ultras in the South Atlantic. Despite being nearly twice the height of Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest mountain, it is completely blanketed in tropical rainforest.

The other 5 Ultras of the South Atlantic are Pico Basilé, Gran Caldera de Luba (both on the island of Bioko), Queen Mary's Peak (on the British island of Tristan da Cunha - the most remote inhabited archipelago in the world), Mount Paget and Mount Carse (both on the British island of South Georgia).

The Flight to Gabon

The flight to Gabon from Paris was absolutely spectacular; a real privilege. Not a cloud was seen from the northern coast of Algeria to the southern border of Niger.

On the north coast of Algeria, at the eastern end of the Tell Atlas mountains, Lalla Khedidja could easily be identified. Lalla Khedidja is one of Algeria’s three Ultras and is the snow-capped peak towards the top of the photos, standing slightly separated from the rest of its mountain range.

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From there, the Sahara begins. Seemingly endless but immensely varied desert.

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Then, rising from a sea of sand, the Hoggar Mountains appear. This area is home to Mount Tahat, one of four Ultras to be found in the Sahara.

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Arriving in São Tomé

Having ticked off the job in Gabon, it was time to hop on a light aircraft to get to São Tomé. Rather than immediately aiming for the summit, Martin and I decided to take in a little of the São Tomé coastline, which is basically the only inhabited area.

São Tomé Map.jpg


Off the southern tip of São Tomé lies the island of Rolas, which is bisected by the equator. It is probably the most obscure place that you can stand with one foot in the northern hemisphere and one foot in the southern hemisphere. Martin and I got a local fisherman to drop us on the island, where we walked its perimeter, swam in the sea, and made camp in a cave...

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That evening, as the monsoon clouds lifted and we looked back towards the main island, we could see the summit of the Pico.

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Once back on São Tomé, we travelled up the east coast to do a bit of underwater exploring, swimming through caves and around a shipwreck.

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Having hired a Suzuki Jimny, we started to work our way towards the base of the mountain, using mud tracks and old colonial routes...

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We drove by the incredible Cão Grande, an enormous volcanic needle. For some sort of scale, this is twice the height of The Shard in London.

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Probably the best 100-metre stretch of road in all of São Tomé...

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Climbing the Pico

A vehicle will only get you a short distance into the island’s interior. From there, you’re on foot. The lower slopes of the mountainous interior are still covered in crop plantations, tended by local people who sell their produce either on nearby markets or internationally. A farmer guided us along a network of paths through his plantations of bananas, coffee, carrots, lettuce, mangos, cocoa and jackfruit...


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There comes a point, though, where the plantations give way to virgin rainforest...

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This presents something of a problem. Of course, making progress through dense jungle isn’t easy, but the bigger issue is navigation. When in the mountains of the UK, or Norway, or Switzerland, or Spain, or wherever, you can usually see where you’re going and where you’ve come from. If you're lucky, you get a clear view of the summit you’re aiming for and a gauge of how far you’ve ascended. But not here.

With many miles still to cover and a lot of height to gain, a plan to keep track of location is needed.

The topographic map below shows the shape of the land beneath the jungle. Lagoa Amelia is a lake that’s formed in an old volcanic crater and is relatively easily accessible. From there, there is a sharp ridge that ascends the mountain of Carvalho. From Carvalho, another sharp ridge leads to the Pico; the highest mountain on the island, and the Ultra. Whilst this may seem like an excessively long route, the ridge acts as a ‘handrail’. In other words, as long as you don’t stray from the ridge, you’ll always know where you’ve come from and where you’re going. Without GPS, it’s difficult to know exactly how far along the ridge you’ve come, but sticking to the ridge prevents you from getting lost in the jungle.

Pico Topography.jpg


So, fewer words, more photos...

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A few photos to illustrate just how sharp the ridge gets at times...

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On the equator, daytime lasts for 12 hours and night last for 12 hours. The jungle makes a lot of noise at all hours; birds of paradise sing, insects call, distant trees fall, primates swing.

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Every now and then, a break in the canopy would provide a view of the eventual goal, as well as the landscape around us...

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And, just when I was starting to think we’d never make it, the trees abated to reveal a rusty metal pole set in a block of old Portuguese concrete. The summit!

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OK, OK, all you really want to see is the view from the top. Now that’s ultra-prominence!

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Truly stunning and beautiful, you are very lucky to be able to travel and experience these things. I’m a business owner and I haven’t been able to get away from calls from the office in 5 years while on holiday, have to plan my days around mobile signal, needless to say I am well jell!


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Truly stunning and beautiful, you are very lucky to be able to travel and experience these things. I’m a business owner and I haven’t been able to get away from calls from the office in 5 years while on holiday, have to plan my days around mobile signal, needless to say I am well jell!

Thanks Edwrai,

Like you, I also run my own business ...but I am its sole employee, so I get a little more flexibility. It's not often I have the time or the funds to do things like this, but someone else paid for me to get as far as Gabon, so climbing an Ultra on a remote islands was an opportunity I had to take.
 
Brilliant write up and pictures Tom; thanks for taking the time to post it for us..........................................................now, get back to your house refurbishment!

Cheers, Jeff
 
...now, get back to your house refurbishment!

Thanks Jeff,

Today was a day spent on the computer ordering all the materials I need for the next stage, so I've sort of still been working on my house.
I sorted through all the photos a week or so ago, but decided to take a few hours this afternoon to flesh them out with some text and maps. :)

Cheers,

Tom
 
You are making many members really jealous Tom I am sure. Good on you though! Take the opportunities when you can, absolutely brilliant.
Geoff
 
You are making many members really jealous Tom I am sure. Good on you though! Take the opportunities when you can, absolutely brilliant.
Geoff

Thanks Geoff. Hopefully people will be more inspired than envious. I'm glad you enjoyed the thread. :)
 
Proper adventure Tom - thanks for taking the time and trouble to post what you've been up to.

Simon.
 
Many thanks all for your 'likes', PMs and kind comments. It did indeed feel like a proper adventure at times.
Myself and Martin walked out of the jungle with only 3 hours to spare before our flight back to the African continent. We were hungry, thirsty, covered in scratches and insect bites, were unwashed and we both absolutely stank! We got on the aeroplane, apologised to the crew, and asked to be seated as far from anyone else as possible. Some may wonder how this possibly qualifies as a holiday.

When I got back to the UK, at the end of January, I had about 3 days at home before heading to the far north of Scotland to do some retrofitting for a fellow club member. On my way home, I stopped in the Cairngorms...

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Within 10 days of standing among mountains covered in rainforest, I was stood among mountains covered in snow and ice. A stark demonstration of the variety on offer on Planet Earth.

Cheers,

Tom
 
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Amazing write up. And photos never do a scene justice so this experience must have been a bucket list job and truly unforgettable. Thanks for sharing Tom.
 
another truly inspiring thread. Well done sir..
the comment about photos not doing it justice are completely true, having spent some time in the "mountains" of the UK, Brecon Beacons, Black Mountains, Snowdonia, my wife and I did a two nighter in Glencoe (only driving not walking, she has no cartilage in her knees :-( ) and when you come back and show people the pics they never look how it felt. You must have had an epic time
 
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