1.2TDI gearbox: stopped working

Hello everyone,
I haven't use my car for quite a while due to the problem I've described before. I've decided to see if replacing the clutch slave cylinder (and then doing the necessary basic settings) would fix my problem. I've almost fully installed a new clutch slave cylinder, the only part which needs to be done is to 'engage the clutch cable at the release lever': although I've fully loosen the lock nut and fully closed the adjusting nut, the cable still seems too short to be engaged (like about 1cm). Is it possible to move the release lever by hand or some other means? Thank you.
Cheers,
Miguel
 
Just pull the cable. Make sure that the cylinder is correctly engaged with the bracket. It might be easier to engage the cable end first.

RAB
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi everyone,

I managed to install a new clutch slave cylinder and then do the Basic Settings (Clutch Travel Sender Adaptation, Gear Actuator Adaptation and Creep Point Adaptation) without getting any errors. It's been more than 250km since and the car seems to be working just fine!
I would like to give a special thank you to RAB, Ceonke, John L and Fendent.

Cheers,
Miguel
 
Hi everyone,

Well... the problem reappeared after 350km. I've checked the clutch slave cylinder voltage and it's now at 2.19V instead of the value of 1.9V I set it to. I'm going to redo a basic settings procedure. I wonder if the lock nut wasn't tight (I didn't had time to check that). Also I'm suspicious the rod in gear actuator might have too much play like once John L mentioned (unfortunately the problem I once described in another thread related to engaging reverse gear never really disappeared) so I want to check that (in neutral, there's some fluctuations in the value of G162 voltage clearly seen in 'scope' mode of the VCDS interface). By the way I bought a Facom 467S short ratchet (in 10 and 13mm) to be able to set the slave cylinder and they're really handy (no publicity intended, I hope I'm not breaking any rule here).

Cheers,
Miguel
 
Perhaps the clutch actuator wasn't seated correctly in the bracket? The end of the bracket should pass through the gap in the flange around the actuator.

RAB
 
If it's mounted correctly, try plugging and unplugging electrically the hydraulic unit and checking the clutch reading after you unplug. If you don't get a consistent reading, it may mean that your clutch bearing or guide sleeve are faulty. How many km's has the clutch done?

RAB
 
Hello RAB,
I've checked the slave cylinder and it's mounted correctly. I've redone the Basic Settings and all is working again, although this time I'm seeing the fluctuations (slightly sinusoidal) in the value of G162 voltage not only in the N but in other gears. The problem is most likely to return, it must be something else than the slave cylinder. I haven't replaced yet replaced the rod in the gear actuator (John L remark in https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/audi-1-2tdi-3l-gearbox-problem.19716/page-2) as I mentioned before. I haven't tried plugging/unplugging electrically the hydraulic unit and check for consistent reading like you mentioned, but I will (I missed that while redoing the basics settings). The car has 159000km and I'm practically sure the clutch is the original.
One question: in the basic settings step 'Adjust', I'm loosening the gear actuator nut, push/pull the rod a little so that it moves to a "free" position and then I tight the nut back (I have to hold the mechanism because it tends to rotate when tightening it back). Is this correct? Is this what they mean by 'zero-potential' in the Ross-tech procedures? To note that it's not needed to remove the panel beneath the motor, there's a space there which is big enough. Thank you.
Cheers,
Miguel
 
Most likely explanation, if you are getting inconsistent clutch readings, is that the clutch guide sleeve is going, I'm afraid. Cheap component but gearbox out to replace. Sensible thing to do would be to change the clutch as well.

For 'Adjust', just loosen the nut, let the linkage go to it's relaxed position and then re-tighten the nut without changing the position of the linkage. Unless the panel has been modified, it needs to be removed.

RAB
 
Dear RAB,

I see, thank you very much.
I drove the car about 100km and the G162 voltage went from about 1.93V to 1.99V in the meantime, and most probably this means trouble (note: the sinusoidal fluctuations are gone except in N gear). A few questions, please:
  1. When you said: "try plugging and unplugging electrically the hydraulic unit ", should I set the gearbox into a specific position (tiptronic, STOP, N?)
  2. The work to change the clucth, guide sleeve and clutch bearing: would you suggest to do it myself or go to a garage (I found a mechanic in Switzerland familiar with A2 and Lupo 1.2TDI and I'm tempted to give it a try)? I mean, this is skilled work, with specific tools, right?
Thank you.
Miguel
 
For 1. Switch on ignition (no need to start the engine), place the lever in Tiptronic mode and get someone to press the brake pedal. Watch the clutch - it should go from closed position (~ 1.90v) to open (~4.00v). If the voltage is not consistent or changes very slowly at the lower end, the guide sleeve is the probable suspect.
For 2. Removing the gearbox requires quite a few special tools which might make doing it yourself uneconomic. You could do without some of the tools but not all. A frame for supporting the engine would be required. I have exactly the same problem at the moment and am weighing up whether I can do it myself.

RAB
 
Thank you RAB.
Sorry, I forgot something: 'when you say not consistent', do you mean in the order of 0.02-0.04V variation?
I think it's a bit too much to change the clutch myself. I just called the garage and the price is quite reasonable (a bit more than 1/3 what Audi was asking last time), so I'm going to give it a try this time.

Cheers,
Miguel
 
The voltage at the lower end should be constant, +0.04v is too much. You will find that if you leave it long enough, it will go to the lower value.

RAB
 
"Removing the gearbox requires quite a few special tools which might make doing it yourself uneconomic. You could do without some of the tools but not all. A frame for supporting the engine would be required. I have exactly the same problem at the moment and am weighing up whether I can do it myself."

In fact it's not so difficult but does require time and ideally two people for physical removal and re-fitting. The engine can remain in situ as long as it is properly supported (can be done from underside). USe engine crane to take weight of gearbox (can then be moved like a pendulum).

Removal involves taking out drive-shafts (probably the most difficult part as shafts are thread-locked into hubs), disconnecting power steering (if fitted), removing all the 3L hydraulics (can be done without draining fluid).
 
RAB said:
The voltage at the lower end should be constant, +0.04v is too much. You will find that if you leave it long enough, it will go to the lower value.

RAB
Click to expand...

OK, thank you.
Yes, indeed it goes to a lower value after a while like from 1.97V to 1.95V. Next Wednesday I'm taking the car to the garage I mentioned.
Note: something is starting to (sometimes) make a hissing sound (more or less) when the gears are changed (mainly in 1st gear, I have the impression). I won't drive anymore the car except to take it to the garage.
Cheers and thanks again for all the help.
Miguel
 
ecoangel said:
"Removing the gearbox requires quite a few special tools which might make doing it yourself uneconomic. You could do without some of the tools but not all. A frame for supporting the engine would be required. I have exactly the same problem at the moment and am weighing up whether I can do it myself."

In fact it's not so difficult but does require time and ideally two people for physical removal and re-fitting. The engine can remain in situ as long as it is properly supported (can be done from underside). USe engine crane to take weight of gearbox (can then be moved like a pendulum).

Removal involves taking out drive-shafts (probably the most difficult part as shafts are thread-locked into hubs), disconnecting power steering (if fitted), removing all the 3L hydraulics (can be done without draining fluid).
Click to expand...

Thank you for all the details but I think it would be too much for me. Maybe in a few years :)
PS: your link seems to be down (?)
 
So the car is (so far) working again. The mechanic replaced the clutch guide sleeve (which was indeed in a bad stated), the clutch bearing (practically falling apart and maybe the reason for the hissing sound which I don't hear anymore so far) and the clutch plate (I don't know in which state it was). All seems to be working fine, he didn't see any other major problem during the procedure. I'm 900GBP poorer but now I know a mechanic that seems to know this car model quite well (he has worked in many Lupos 1.2TDI and has one himself), he's cheaper than Audi (I paid them about 1500GBP for nothing!!!) and he's friendly. For any Swiss out there: Garage98 (Corseaux). Thank you again to everyone, this forum is really great.
Cheers, Miguel
 
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