1.4TDi 90 Engine sort of fires then stops and wont restart.

Hi All

A few weeks ago I had a problem where on the first start for a day or so, it fired but before reaching tick over it stopped dead and wouldn't restart.

I disconnected the battery for a couple of minutes, reconnected and after a bit of turning it started and there has been no problem since.

Until today. It hasn't been started since Monday and the same thing has happened. I haven't tried disconnecting the battery today, it's too hot.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
+1 for the VCDS scan. Be aware certain things still do not report faults to the cars diagnostics. Things like tandem pump, fuel filter , injector loom being some examples.
So if the fault lies in one of the non reporting components VCDS will not highlight it.... Could well be a worn tandem pump allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank when parked up. The ASV could be sticking also. Are there any dash warning lights? Does the car start better with the engine pointing down hill?
Have you tried with more than one key in case it is an immobiliser issue?
 
Mine did something similar for a while before finally just not starting. Put a new battery in it and it's been perfect since.
 

dieselfan

Member
If the VCDS scan do not give any clear answer.....
- check the service history: when was the fuel filter changed last time. If you have passed 20k miles since last change. Change the filter. If you have got dirty diesel once...
If the filter change do not solve the issue , check for leaks,; diesel cooler, tank connectors, hoses,++
Tandem pump change would be my next step
 

neo

Member
Tandem pump could be the problem.
It can leak in such way that it lets the fuel to return into the fuel tank during the time off.
When first started after that, the engine uses what's left of the fuel in the lines between the pump and nozzles and then needs a lot of cranking to pump the fuel back up to the nozzles.

To check you can install non-return valve on the fuel intake line, between the hard line and the rubber hose, next to the belt cover.
 
Thanks to the man who asked about "pointing downhill". In the two cases it hasn't started it has been pointing uphill. The first time slightly and this time quite steep.
I took my life and my reputation with my neighbours in my hands a freewheeled backwards down the hill and into a little entrance where the car was pointing downhill. I then tried the suggested method of starting and it started on the 4th or 5th turn, much to my happiness. And it's now parked facing downhill.

So, is it the pump or something else? There is no smell of fuel so I'm not sure.

How long does the pump change take for an experienced mechanic?

Thanks to all for your contributions.
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Time for a new tandem pump. Can be changed in a couple of hours. Read the threads on here about it and go for a Bosch pump instead of an LUK.

Strongly suggest that you get at the very least VCDS Lite, a free download from ross-tech and a KKL cable from ebay. It runs on a laptop anything from Windows XP to Windows 10 and needs a free USB port
 

spike

Member
Although you say there is no smell of fuel, any signs of a slight fuel weep from the drain screw on the fuel filter housing as that could also be the cause of fuel drainback

Cheers Spike
 
Time for a new tandem pump. Can be changed in a couple of hours. Read the threads on here about it and go for a Bosch pump instead of an LUK.

Strongly suggest that you get at the very least VCDS Lite, a free download from ross-tech and a KKL cable from ebay. It runs on a laptop anything from Windows XP to Windows 10 and needs a free USB port
Thanks to all for your help.

With regard to the Bosch pump vs the LUK. I see the mention of an adaptor.

Is the Bosch pump an original A2 fitment and why an adaptor? Why the preference to the LUK.

What pump would my '04 A2 TDI 90 have as original? It's done 158k miles on the one pump so I'm happy to go for whatever it has now.

Just trying to understand. Thank for any input.

Rob
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
LUK was the OEM pump fitment for all A2 diesels. However the Bosch pump is a far better one. On LHD cars the Bosch is a direct swap on all diesels, however on RHD cars fitted with the BHC or ATL engines the ASV interferes with the slightly larger Bosch tandem. This is why on those RHD cars an extra spacer is required to move the ASV to the right and provide the clearance needed to fit the Bosch pump.

If you do not want to fit the Bosch pump then you can go ahead and replace your current LUK with another LUK tandem and no extra parts would be needed.

Which ever pump you decide to fit do not fit a used one or even a resealed one only fit new. Also make sure the metal gasket that fits between the tandem and the head is an OEM quality one that has the 2 tracts of blue silicone on it.
 

depronman

Member
LUK was the OEM pump fitment for all A2 diesels. However the Bosch pump is a far better one. On LHD cars the Bosch is a direct swap on all diesels, however on RHD cars fitted with the BHC or ATL engines the ASV interferes with the slightly larger Bosch tandem. This is why on those RHD cars an extra spacer is required to move the ASV to the right and provide the clearance needed to fit the Bosch pump.

If you do not want to fit the Bosch pump then you can go ahead and replace your current LUK with another LUK tandem and no extra parts would be needed.

Which ever pump you decide to fit do not fit a used one or even a resealed one only fit new. Also make sure the metal gasket that fits between the tandem and the head is an OEM quality one that has the 2 tracts of blue silicone on it.

Not totally correct. The Bosch pump and the LUK pump where fitted to the amf engines cars in the uk
Only when the bhc and atl engines came in was only the LUK pump fitted due to a clash with the electronic ASV fitted to the bhc and atl engines

The Bosch pump is consider to be more reliable but I had an LUK pump never changed on an amf engine at 289,000 and it was totally leak free

Paul


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audifan

A2OC Donor
Bosch does not supply the gasket, but easy enough to buy it separately. Some sellers do bundle the gasket but better to order the exact one that you need ( the one with the 2 tracts of blue silicone ). Remember though as you have a 90 it is not just the gasket that is required but the extra part to move the ASV clear of the Bosch tandem. So that is an additional cost to think about. The LUK will fit directly ( with a gasket ) and no further modifications. Choice is yours.
 

depronman

Member
If you do use the Bosch pump you need to of the std spacers
Send these two spacers to me and I will machine them to fit together to make a spaces with the correct angular offset. The machining cost is £30 plus postage (typically £4.40)

Cheers. Paul


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CrispyEdd

Member
Thank you for that info.

Does the " Bosch " spacer come with the pump, if not where do I get one?
Hi Alfie I'm fitting the spacer Monday after one failed attempt but that was on unbolting egr pipe. Its dead easy to do the spacer but bear in mind you may want to get new seal between spacers. All you need is 5 hex\Allen key and medium flat blade screw driver for charge hose clip. Think bosch pump is £100 cheaper than luk one 🤔
 

AndyP

Member
I had these symptoms and the cause in the end appeared to be a faulty cam position sensor. If you can disconnect that and it will start,then you have probably identified the problem.
 
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