A2 no rear speakers
- Thread starter AFG
- Start date
FinallyFiona
Admin Team
The rear speakers are the same as the ones in the front but you'll need the separate amplifier for the rears that goes under the driver's floor. There shouldn't be any shortage of availability of any of them. The issue will be that the wiring won't already exist, from the headunit backwards. The wires will have to go through the existing connectors into the rear doors. There will be a lot of trim to remove, connectors to get out of their poor-access locations to put pins into, and soldering of wires to do.
The simple answer is, engage @timmus
The simple answer is, engage @timmus
Last edited:
2work
Well Known Member
Afternoon Gaz,
I’ve not personally had to do this retrofit before but you'll need to collect the parts required:
1. Blaupunkt amplifier
2. 2x speakers
3. VCDS for any specific coding
4. Associated pins and wiring
These parts should be readily available from one of our resident ethical breakers. Place a Wanted add in the Market area as one of them may be willing to remove the whole loom for you instead of just cutting the connectors.
Once you have these parts you’ll need to add the necessary feeds at the head unit mini ISO connectors and take them down to the Blaupunkt amplifier:
Mini ISO connector (20 pin):
1 - rear left signal
2 - rear right signal
3 - signal ground
6 - Plus switched (amplifier)
Pins 1,2 & 3 should be shielded to avoid interference, everything you need will no doubt be in someone’s breaker.
Blaupunkt Amplifier Connector (12 pin):
1 - Speaker (-) rear left
2 - Terminal 30
3 - Terminal 31
4 - Signal ground (from head unit)
5 - Switched live (from the head unit)
6 - Speaker (+) rear right
7 - Speaker (+) rear left
9 - rear left signal (from head unit)
10 - rear right signal (from head unit)
12 - Speaker (-) rear right
From the amplifier you’ll need to take pins 1,6,7&12 to the handed internal B pillar connectors and then from the exterior B pillar connectors through the doors to the speakers themselves.
Written down like this is looks quite straightforward but you’ll have to remove various trim panels. As Ian @Proghound says above, it might just be easier to get someone to do it for you but that removes the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Kind regards,
Tom
I’ve not personally had to do this retrofit before but you'll need to collect the parts required:
1. Blaupunkt amplifier
2. 2x speakers
3. VCDS for any specific coding
4. Associated pins and wiring
These parts should be readily available from one of our resident ethical breakers. Place a Wanted add in the Market area as one of them may be willing to remove the whole loom for you instead of just cutting the connectors.
Once you have these parts you’ll need to add the necessary feeds at the head unit mini ISO connectors and take them down to the Blaupunkt amplifier:
Mini ISO connector (20 pin):
1 - rear left signal
2 - rear right signal
3 - signal ground
6 - Plus switched (amplifier)
Pins 1,2 & 3 should be shielded to avoid interference, everything you need will no doubt be in someone’s breaker.
Blaupunkt Amplifier Connector (12 pin):
1 - Speaker (-) rear left
2 - Terminal 30
3 - Terminal 31
4 - Signal ground (from head unit)
5 - Switched live (from the head unit)
6 - Speaker (+) rear right
7 - Speaker (+) rear left
9 - rear left signal (from head unit)
10 - rear right signal (from head unit)
12 - Speaker (-) rear right
From the amplifier you’ll need to take pins 1,6,7&12 to the handed internal B pillar connectors and then from the exterior B pillar connectors through the doors to the speakers themselves.
Written down like this is looks quite straightforward but you’ll have to remove various trim panels. As Ian @Proghound says above, it might just be easier to get someone to do it for you but that removes the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Kind regards,
Tom
D
Deleted member 15819
Guest
Just edited after finding a picture showing FADER button on fascia.
Last edited by a moderator:
D
Deleted member 15819
Guest
Trying to find a pin out for the old Chorus 1 but all images are poor. After much search I see the FADER button on the front on all the radios so yes capable of front and rear speakers although perhaps coded out when not fitted. As Tom has said pull out your unit to check the wiring diagram label on it.
Even if you had told us the head unit would have helped.
Even if you had told us the head unit would have helped.
timmus
A2OC Donor
In addition to what’s already been written, the rear doors themselves will also need to be rewired. At present, there’s no wiring for audio in the rear doors.
To keep their lightweight eco machine as light as possible, Audi didn’t include any wiring for optional extras that weren’t specified at factory.
All relevant Audi head units, whether Gen 1 or Gen2, Chorus, Concert or Symphony, have the necessary outputs.
Gaz, many thanks for your most recent private message. I’m currently neck-deep in house renovations, so my reply times are even longer than usual, but I’m happy to include this topic in our discussions.
Cheers,
Tom
To keep their lightweight eco machine as light as possible, Audi didn’t include any wiring for optional extras that weren’t specified at factory.
All relevant Audi head units, whether Gen 1 or Gen2, Chorus, Concert or Symphony, have the necessary outputs.
Gaz, many thanks for your most recent private message. I’m currently neck-deep in house renovations, so my reply times are even longer than usual, but I’m happy to include this topic in our discussions.
Cheers,
Tom
PlasticMac
Admin Team
I'd seriously consider fitting new speakers and amplifier. Fitting 15 to 20 year old, reclaimed bits, seems, to me, to devalue the serious amount of work that you'll be doing anyway.
Fitting aftermarket speakers will be a challenge, and others on here may be able to suggest units that they have fitted successfully.
Not the same I know, but I've recently replaced the original speakers, and amplifier in my TT. I used mid price JBL speakers and amp.
Not strictly required, but as Tom says, run the line out from the HU to the amplifier in screened cable.
Good luck.
Mac.
This thread may be of interest:
www.a2oc.net
Fitting aftermarket speakers will be a challenge, and others on here may be able to suggest units that they have fitted successfully.
Not the same I know, but I've recently replaced the original speakers, and amplifier in my TT. I used mid price JBL speakers and amp.
Not strictly required, but as Tom says, run the line out from the HU to the amplifier in screened cable.
Good luck.
Mac.
This thread may be of interest:
Installation instruction for rear speakers
Hi A2 fans! Does anyone have a scan of the installation instruction that came with the rear speaker kit 8Z0 063 606? Thanks and regards, Thomas
www.a2oc.net
2work
Well Known Member
Well posted Mac,I'd seriously consider fitting new speakers and amplifier. Fitting 15 to 20 year old, reclaimed bits, seems, to me, to devalue the serious amount of work that you'll be doing anyway.
Fitting aftermarket speakers will be a challenge, and others on here may be able to suggest units that they have fitted successfully.
Not the same I know, but I've recently replaced the original speakers, and amplifier in my TT. I used mid price JBL speakers and amp.
Not strictly required, but as Tom says, run the line out from the HU to the amplifier in screened cable.
Good luck.
Mac.
This thread may be of interest:
Installation instruction for rear speakers
Hi A2 fans! Does anyone have a scan of the installation instruction that came with the rear speaker kit 8Z0 063 606? Thanks and regards, Thomas
That really is a helpful link, exactly what @AFG asked for. There is more than enough information included to fully enable him to proceed with this particular retrofit alone should he wish to do so.
Fingers crossed someone is willing to correctly and fully remove the complete loom for this and future kits. It isn’t too difficult at all and is what we should be trying to achieve by saving as much of these end of life vehicles as possible. Simply cutting connectors off should really be a last resort as apart from time, it’s very achievable to remove complete looms for people to have all they need to refer to the pinout diagrams and conduct these less challenging retrofits themselves with as little soldering as possible.
I fully understand that this might push the price of salvaged parts due to the additional removal time but it’ll be cheaper in the long run for the fully working/required result and much more helpful to the community.
This is just my personal thoughts after seeing the recent full heated seat loom available on eBay. Whoever purchased that just had to push the pins into the correct connector hole and they were good to go.
Gaz @AFG get a Wanted add put together to see what’s possible Sir.
Kind regards,
Tom
PlasticMac
Admin Team
Do think hard, before replacing the head unit. The Chorus/Concert is period correct, and is a good quality bit of kit. It's easy to add Bluetooth, for streaming, and hands free calls, if needed. Replacing speakers and amp is hidden. Originality is important to me, but it's your car, and what suits you is what's right.
Mac.
Mac
You are right about originality and oem look
I can't remember what unit I have in my car, I know it's cassette player and it doesn't have fader option, maybe it's chorus
Now if I upgrade to better oem unit , what units fits directly to the wiring etc?
Also the amp and wiring for the rear door speaker is it a lot Involved?
best
Gaz
You are right about originality and oem look
I can't remember what unit I have in my car, I know it's cassette player and it doesn't have fader option, maybe it's chorus
Now if I upgrade to better oem unit , what units fits directly to the wiring etc?
Also the amp and wiring for the rear door speaker is it a lot Involved?
best
Gaz
PlasticMac
Admin Team
simon martyn
Member
I an only think of one sensible suggestion here. Timmus who has been known to come down to Leighton Buzzard on his annual pilgrimage.
Southampton Andy
New Member
Hi all - apologies for re-activating an old thread about A2 rear speakers but can I throw in my experiences of this?
Recently bought a nice 2004 A2 'Storm' with loads of history so hopefully it will prove a good investment as I see values of these fantastic cars are beginning to climb! This is the second A2 I've owned - amazing cars.
It has Concert II fitted - although not the original one according to a note from a previous owner in the handbook and non-matching serial numbers between the unit and the 'code' card in the handbook.
But setting that aside for the moment:
One of the first things I've done is fitted the USB-NACHREUSTEN bluetooth streaming box to enable my phone's music library and Radio 6 Music on BBC Sounds to play through the audio system. This great piece of kit displaces the connector to the CD-multichanger which I'll never use. This all works brilliantly. I fitted the same kit to my Mk1 TT a few years back and it has functioned continuously with no faults. The added bonus is that now the nice GoogleMaps lady will also play through the cars' audio systems, hence effectively providing sat-nav in both my aging Audis - very useful. For those of you who don't know about this great piece of kit, check it out here: https://usb-nachruesten.de/bluetoot...a-seat-radios-stereos-radio-streamen-retrofit . Well worth €40
Anyway, the point is, that whilst fitting this device, I noticed that the rear speakers in my A2 weren't working. Fading to 'rear' simply faded to nothing.
Lots of Googling later, including many reads and re-reads of this thread led me to first check that my car had rear speakers - it does - and secondly that the Blaupunkt amp to drive them is present in the cavity under the driver's side floor - it was there. I have no reason to doubt whether this amp is working but it is possible that it has given up through old age, so I've ordered a replacement from a breakers, due to arrive in a day or two - just 9 quid, so worth a punt. I've now removed the current Blaupunkt in prep for a replacement arriving hopefully in the next day or two after first wiggling the connector to see if a dry connection may be preventing it from working properly - that made no difference.
However, I also read in this thread that the Concert II unit may have to be 'coded' to match the car. Given that my car has a non-original Concert II and that this info is correct, it could be possible that it wasn't coded to match the car and this may be why the rear speakers don't work?
But I haven't found much info about this process, and anyway, I don't have access to VCDS and a suitable OBD scanner to action anything. If others have had this issue and someone near me (anywhere along the South Coast) has VCDS and can help, please let me know.
So in the meantime, yesterday I took the car to Portsmouth Audi to see what their technicians had to say about this.
A very helpful guy was interested in the issue, but after checking his tech stuff, said that Audi don't have any info on any process for 'coding' a Concert II to drive the active rear speakers. But I was more than welcome to book the car in (at £140 an hour!) for them to 'check it out'. I politely declined :-/ He did suggest, however, that the Blaupunkt amp may have failed through old age, which is why I'm trying this route.
Hence I'm left with conflicting information, frankly. And if replacing the Blaupunkt also makes no difference, this leaves me stumped.
Just wondered whether any tech experts in the A2OC have any ideas?
Cheers
Andy
Southampton
Recently bought a nice 2004 A2 'Storm' with loads of history so hopefully it will prove a good investment as I see values of these fantastic cars are beginning to climb! This is the second A2 I've owned - amazing cars.
It has Concert II fitted - although not the original one according to a note from a previous owner in the handbook and non-matching serial numbers between the unit and the 'code' card in the handbook.
But setting that aside for the moment:
One of the first things I've done is fitted the USB-NACHREUSTEN bluetooth streaming box to enable my phone's music library and Radio 6 Music on BBC Sounds to play through the audio system. This great piece of kit displaces the connector to the CD-multichanger which I'll never use. This all works brilliantly. I fitted the same kit to my Mk1 TT a few years back and it has functioned continuously with no faults. The added bonus is that now the nice GoogleMaps lady will also play through the cars' audio systems, hence effectively providing sat-nav in both my aging Audis - very useful. For those of you who don't know about this great piece of kit, check it out here: https://usb-nachruesten.de/bluetoot...a-seat-radios-stereos-radio-streamen-retrofit . Well worth €40
Anyway, the point is, that whilst fitting this device, I noticed that the rear speakers in my A2 weren't working. Fading to 'rear' simply faded to nothing.
Lots of Googling later, including many reads and re-reads of this thread led me to first check that my car had rear speakers - it does - and secondly that the Blaupunkt amp to drive them is present in the cavity under the driver's side floor - it was there. I have no reason to doubt whether this amp is working but it is possible that it has given up through old age, so I've ordered a replacement from a breakers, due to arrive in a day or two - just 9 quid, so worth a punt. I've now removed the current Blaupunkt in prep for a replacement arriving hopefully in the next day or two after first wiggling the connector to see if a dry connection may be preventing it from working properly - that made no difference.
However, I also read in this thread that the Concert II unit may have to be 'coded' to match the car. Given that my car has a non-original Concert II and that this info is correct, it could be possible that it wasn't coded to match the car and this may be why the rear speakers don't work?
But I haven't found much info about this process, and anyway, I don't have access to VCDS and a suitable OBD scanner to action anything. If others have had this issue and someone near me (anywhere along the South Coast) has VCDS and can help, please let me know.
So in the meantime, yesterday I took the car to Portsmouth Audi to see what their technicians had to say about this.
A very helpful guy was interested in the issue, but after checking his tech stuff, said that Audi don't have any info on any process for 'coding' a Concert II to drive the active rear speakers. But I was more than welcome to book the car in (at £140 an hour!) for them to 'check it out'. I politely declined :-/ He did suggest, however, that the Blaupunkt amp may have failed through old age, which is why I'm trying this route.
Hence I'm left with conflicting information, frankly. And if replacing the Blaupunkt also makes no difference, this leaves me stumped.
Just wondered whether any tech experts in the A2OC have any ideas?
Cheers
Andy
Southampton
Attachments
FinallyFiona
Admin Team
At the time the Concert II was introduced into the A2 in 2002, the specification was changed so that all A2s had speakers in all four doors (although I believe the unit does still support coding for 2-speaker systems). The only other coding option was for the BOSE upgrade, and this only changes the behaviour of the unit to display the word 'BOSE' on activation. The actual output behaviour change for BOSE comes from a slight reconfiguration of the pinout on the rear of the unit. In other words, the problem won't be the coding on your headunit. It'll be the rear amp under the driver's floor as you originally suspected. I've seen a few of these get changed out due to failure in recent years.
PlasticMac
Admin Team
The rear amp is permanently powered, but goes into standby when the radio is off. There's a switched 12 volts out of the radio, that brings the rear amp out of standby.
If that is not getting to the amp, it'll remain in standby, so check that first.
Look at post #3, by @2work for pin numbers.
Also this post by @Sarge might help too.
www.a2oc.net
Mac.
If that is not getting to the amp, it'll remain in standby, so check that first.
Look at post #3, by @2work for pin numbers.
Also this post by @Sarge might help too.
Blaupunkt Amp Pinouts
Hi guys, I thought I'd post pinouts for the amp located on applicable models under the drivers floor. Amp part number 8Z0 035 223 Hope it helps :) Cheers Sarge
www.a2oc.net
PlasticMac
Admin Team
I believe Gen I radios, Chorus I and Concert I, (early cars), require coding to enable rear amp.
(Digit 3 set to 2).
Gen II radios, like your Concert II, do not.
Mac.
.
(Digit 3 set to 2).
Gen II radios, like your Concert II, do not.
Mac.
.
Southampton Andy
New Member
Many thanks everyone for contributing to my query about rear speakers.
All very helpful indeed!
But I tracked down the fault in the end to the Blaupunkt amp under the drivers side floor which had given up.
The replacement from eBay for 9 quid that I thought would be worth a try fixed the issue and I now have rear speakers working.
Take note too, everyone, of the link I added in my post relating to the bluetooth dongle whatname from USB-Nachreusten. It works a treat and has got to be by far the best way to 'plumb in' a phone to the Concert II (and other units no doubt). I now have my music and my BBC Sounds Radio 6 happily playing in the car - terrific.
Thanks again everyone
Cheers for now
Southampton Andy
All very helpful indeed!
But I tracked down the fault in the end to the Blaupunkt amp under the drivers side floor which had given up.
The replacement from eBay for 9 quid that I thought would be worth a try fixed the issue and I now have rear speakers working.
Take note too, everyone, of the link I added in my post relating to the bluetooth dongle whatname from USB-Nachreusten. It works a treat and has got to be by far the best way to 'plumb in' a phone to the Concert II (and other units no doubt). I now have my music and my BBC Sounds Radio 6 happily playing in the car - terrific.
Thanks again everyone
Cheers for now
Southampton Andy